johny

I thought new ones have been bought with a twist so the thinking is its intentional?

I meant on the original production line John. Its the same price to make the ARB with a twist as straight so works out cheaper than making an additional spacer to acheive whatever it was Triumph were thinking...

In fact I wonder if its so much that we've affected the Googles AI thingy as if you ask that it says twisted ARB is perfectly normal and Triumph did it to improve handling (with no explanation though)...

Its nothing new Peter, theres been lots of threads on this before and Im sure there will be many more😁

Would be the same bar Pete as Im postulating it was to correct the stance of the car with no driver but fuel in the tank which I believe was kept on the same side in LHD cars...

Ha ha we all started off idiots... Rebuilding a diff is not an easy job and most leave it to specialists. This is because when you move crownwheel and pinions their bearing preload, backlash and alignment has to be set which requires precise measurements and then shimming correctly or you end up with a noisy unit that could fail rapidly.

Triumph did some strange things and a twisted anti roll bar is cheaper than spring packers😁

Just thinking the car might sit funny with no driver and a full tank of petrol so anti roll bar compensates for this? Wouldnt matter when being driven...

On the Herald/Vitesse to compensate for the fuel tank?

Once you get the door closing and sitting perfectly😲 try the bubble seal again (unslit) as it could work well if theres room....

The other thing people have done is to slice open the bubble seal type you have all the way round so that it effectively becomes a flap style...

I think its this one Colins referring to which is a general listing as used on many cars... FLEXIBLE SELF GRIP RUBBER SIDE TAIL SEAL 1.6MM TO 3MM PANELS DX73 (coh-baines.co.uk)

What were Triumph thinking of - a bit of paper would have made all the difference!

Is the door latch working properly as once made it shouldnt pop open again no matter how pressure the seals might be putting on the door? However if your sure the mechanism is in good order its possible the seal isnt allowing the latch to engage completely. You could confirm this by either closing the door even harder or removing the seal to prove the latch... The seats are identical and can be swopped over (worth doing as driver side most worn) but they are mounted differently each side so that they raise to one side or another. Unfortunately the photos in the manual arent very clear but you have to chose the correct holes for the hinge bolts and over the years many have now been incorrectly assembled...

Thanks Colin. Yes Im still surprised there isnt gaskets for those side flanges - would be so easy...

I suppose thats quite a good way to work out the correct coolant level. If the cap lifts after being filled to a certain level in future you need to maintain the level just a bit lower to ensure that youre running with sufficient pressure in the system to avoid boiling anywhere...

Think your photo shows the set up pretty clearly Mac with the two connecting pipes above and below the coolant level. All that we cant see is the overflow from the tank pressure cap which must be round the other side and probably doesnt need a pipe on it...

Have you got two caps then Steve, one in the tank and another on the rad, both pressure type?

yes as Steve found it doesnt matter how you connect the pipework if its a sealed system and the coolant (waterless excepted) expands on heating the pressure will go up and you want this to be to the correct level for the reasons stated...

Woohoo so the level is quite critical as too much and it'll lift the cap, too little and you could get localised coolant boiling around the cylinder head?

Yes that was what I was going by so as the coolant volume increases if it compresses the air space in the tank to half the pressure will double. Starting at an absolute pressure of 15psi (atmospheric) youll get 30psi absolute = 15psi atm.

You might need to experiment a bit with the level in the tank. According to my calculations our system coolant expands by about 0.25L on warm up and with a tank that'll be slightly more so the air space in the tank needs to be double that volume to give a pressurisation of approximately 15psi...

yes heres the relay wiring diagram...

Does seem strange so you could do some circuit resistance checks. With the battery disconnected and the relay removed measure the resistance to earth on the relay base out going pin to the dash light. Then do the same on the other pin going to the indicators - this should be open circuit until the left or right side is selected on the column switch. The first reading should be quite a bit higher than the latter two which should be equal....

Yes youre probably right Colin. Its just the diff is quiet running with its original bearings and the replacements might be those Korean things😲