johny

Yes likely most straight forward solution is to stop the leak on the existing pump which shouldnt be impossible...

Unfortunately regulators dont help much in the case where a pump develops enough pressure to overcome closed carb float chamber needle valves as at that stage theres no flow so nothing to regulate. Many think it will help but if you imagine a pipeline with a closed end that is pumped up to a certain pressure then putting a valve in the middle of it isnt going to make any difference to the pressure however much you adjust its position! If your carbs overflow and your valves/floats are all in good condition all you can do is reduce the tension exerted by the spring in the pump which is done by packing the body away from crankcase so its operating arm is moved less distance by the cam....

Not sure you should progress any further. Better to return it to reconditioners to let them do the investigation and hopefully cover the repairs under warranty...

That looks like a needle roller from the laygear of which theres 50 divided between its two bearings. Its very easy for them to come out of place during assembly☹️

Let us know how you get on as your project is a bit out of the ordinary👍

That does sound a bit strange as it should be either both screwed (inlet a short piece of metal pipe with rubber connector pushed on it) or neither screwed so just push on connections. I didnt think a hybrid would ever have been available😲 Anyway is the leak coming from the filter cap seal or the bolt/screw that fixes it? Is the thread of the latter ok as these being into alloy can get over tightened and strip...

Yes what did you find to explain it not working before? Also were the reverse idler and 1st gears ok?

Perhaps it could be fixed by the rear fixing bolt for the rocker cover that you can see in Peter pic above?

The manual is pretty good on the mk3 door so does this help at all?

oh well just an idea🤔

Its curtesy of vitessesteve.co.uk although your browser might not like the site its ok to download. Unfortunately I think thats the more Vitesse focussed version as its missing some of the GT6 info but is still very useful for both models...

Yes the bracket is just a twisted piece of flat metal with two holes. There seems to be two versions of the free download manual with one being more Vitesse focussed and the other GT6 although the original paper version covered both. There are quite big differences in a limited number of areas...

The complete exhaust installation is on page 1.403 of the free to download workshop manual and bracket 6 attaches here:

If its laying on the ground then the flanges wont line up correctly. Its need to be roughly in position ie running close to propshaft and exitting close to rear valance. Its nice to get it tucked up as high as possibly to avoid speed humps. Heres the manual drawing and bracket 6 should attach to just after the gearbox main case...

Well maybe not the showroom but didnt they have outside photo shoots where the press drove them and drank loads?

Its fairly close but the downpipe should just lift up and forwards for the flanges to meet as you can see in this photo...

Thats strange because in your photo above swopping the engine brackets should have pushed the engine further back not forward. Is the cut out in its sump pan now aligned with the rack?

Yes unfortunately every connection in a circuit brings with it a volt drop although usually pretty small but nevertheless they have the potential for causing a problem which is difficult to detect☹️ Now your large and exposed positive battery connection makes me nervous Mike and I wonder if theres any plastic cover available that could shield it?

Its cos of the fuel tank I tell you😂I can just imagine it prior to the launch press photo shoot Mr Black? seeing the Herald leaning over and ordering it to be fixed immediately but without spending any money!

In my case its the foam on the right hand edge of the seat that has been flattened by years of the driver getting in and out so that is now on the inside of the passengers seat which in my car doesnt get much use☹️

Yes I was suggesting that the weight of a full tank of fuel on the diagonally opposite corner (RHD Herald/Vitesse without driver) pulls the drivers corner high but its only a wild idea....

Its not the channel holding the base of the glass Im talking about but the channels each side that the glass slides in. These are adjustable in and out to ensure the glass cant jump out of them and are held by bolts which are accessible from the outer surface of the door. The workshop manual shows this although some of the photos are unfortunately very dark...

Yes thats what I did but make sure you swop the hinge fixings over exactly supposing of course that theyre right in the first place...

They are the same and can be swopped over as they have multiple fixing holes for the hinges (the sliding runners stay in place) so you have to chose the right ones depending on whether the seat is going to be driver or passenger side. Its a good idea to swop them over as the drivers seat will likely have more wear than the passenger one...

Im afraid youre going to have to get the door card off and release the channels to install the glass back in them. The good thing is you can then get them fitting better so it doesnt happen again👍