johny

Yes the manuals are great, get the info first hand (well a lot anyway)...

Yes I sometimes do think about it, why take the risk of driving a form of transport which is obviously much less safe than it could be🤔

I thought you had the key but it didnt work? If so the locks knackered and a new assembly needed. Otherwise I think it should be the same as the boot lock (if neither have been changed before of course) so you could get the number off that...

I think if youre going to worry about old but good condition seatbelts failing you shouldnt be driving a classic car - you need something with ABS, airbags, pretensioners, crumple zones etc😂

Dont think a magnet will help much with rust but no worry as the oil filter will do the job. Then perhaps renew the filter at the next oil change rather than leave it to the next?

Agree with Colin but thats some amount of condensation! Will you have a quick peak at the crank bearings and thrusts while youve got the sump off or have they been changed recently?

Got him Colin but he doesnt seem to be selling anything on ebay☹️

Not having any hits with that name Colin but I used this kit and it had the same size for under the glass as for instrument to dash facia but of course a bigger size for bezel to glass...

Ok so not an adjustment, something has failed. Diaphragm punctured, air piston sticking, air leak....

Was it running ok before the condenser problem and what else was done in the service? I ask this because it might indicate the problem being a failure or an adjustment...

What diameter of cord did you get Paul and did you use the same stuff for both sides of the glass?

Reckon you need a plate for a Dolomite 1300 which came with the single rail box. This is GCP244 and 6.5" 20 spline...

Or secondhand probably cheaper but more of a gamble...

Yes luckily a lot of Triumphs sold back in the day and as the bodies didnt last long still some fairly low mileage spares around. However its not such a great picture for some new repro stuff as it can be poor quality where the materials and even the dimensions arent correct...

oh dear, it wont a be a problem on the cable side of the magnetic drive (the metal disc assembly you can see) just the needle side but if youve got oil into the bearings theres not much more you can do. Check nothing is restricting the movement of the needle and metal disc and that its return spring is all free - you should be able to gently flick the needle (I just gyrate the entire speedo) and it kicks round nicely before coming back to zero. However in the end it could be that the bearings are shot...

Hi, thats it gets some miles on it little by little to build up some confidence and work out what needs or you want to improve. I do recommend working your way through the routine maintenance as early as possible in your ownership so you know its right plus it sometimes throws up things before they fail😁

From the free to download workshop manual item 18 in this drawing is the vertical link. It has a thread machined at the bottom that screws into item 41 the trunnion.

I bought one that you squeezed in through sparkplug holes to reseal pistons in worn bores - no need for rebores👍

Yes didnt they actually put metal back on the gear teeth to bring them back to the original profile😍

I do think somethings has happened to rubber in general and I dont know if its for cost, environmental or health reasons. Or maybe just everything was better in the old days😁

I know the actual gear angles changed on some (to reduce noise?😁) but they definitely cant be mixed...

Yes bit of a nightmare now isnt it - with no new gears being available mixing used parts is the only option left...

As its just one gear think its unlikely to be a bearing so could be gears. Its possible that third gear has been changed as part of the recon so its teeth no longer match those of the laygear. Now whether they can 'bed in' and how long that would take is very difficult to say but I think its worth doing the miles the supplier suggests (as quickly as possible) to see if there is any improvement...

Great, let us know how you get on...

Correct unless as Nigel suggested you change over the complete gear selector assembly - after all the internals of both gearbox types are essentially the same but it might complicate matters a bit...