I think the originals were cast with the pipes in place so they were well and truly attached but the pattern part makers now bond them in after casting which is a lot easier but not so reliable☹️
Think to detach the glass you have to separate the two 607867 clips each end of the window regulator bar. Not sure if theyre screwed on or a press fit but you have to get round to exterior side of the glass.
The drawing is courtesy of Canley Classics and they also have one of the door glass itself...
I think stainless inherently makes exhausts noisier as the metal can be thinner. Then to keep the cost down after market units are made with the absolute minimum of internals (and possibly thought)....
I wonder if our water pumps are less likely to start leaking with waterless as theres no pressure? Ive had a few seals go and of course the only remedy is to replace the complete pump (or alternatively go for the mechanical seal upgrade which I havent tried yet)....
I think it was probably a manufacturing fault and the pipe had never properly bonded in. However losing a measureable amount of fuel requires quite leak and it would absolutely stink!
Im sure it could be repaired with epoxy metal Cliff but you cant really take the risk and the cost of a replacement pump is minimal. Only possible problem with a new item is that some people have found they produce too much pressure so causing their carburettor float valves to leak...
A lot of the parts are the same from different suppliers - the biggest difference is the range of stuff they stock so sometimes its what you want that decides who you go to...
They have a rechargeable battery so can start up automatically with the 'impact when parked' function is activated. In my experience this battery eventually fails and then the camera loses its settings😞
oh and think at the same time you might as well order a new USB cable as not worth soldering a plug on the end of that one in case you get the connections wrong....
Ive just wired one of these (8 quid ebay) in my glove box or you can get them without voltmeter or even install a cigarette lighter socket and plug in a USB socket to that...
yes USB connection is white and green for data, which for a stand alone camera shouldnt be necessary, while red and black are +ve and -ve 5 volt respectively...
Do you mean the two radiator mounts where the chassis rails meet the front bar t-stag? If so what does your radiator sit on or have you got a non standard set up?
Unfortunately it looks to be made more difficult by the design of the the sports unit as its inlet pipe seems to be straight instead of having the dog leg of the original. Cant believe how theyve got it so wrong although I see its the same one sold for both Mk2 and 3 while the original is different for each model...
Is it possible to get the back box a bit further to the right so that its mount meets the body bracket as I dont like the existing fixing much? There should be a rubber hanger strip between the two or maybe you could just uses a rubber spacer and a bolt straight through so its held more rigidly. Either way a second support is essential just in case that body bracket breaks...