Phil C

Liberally oiled everything. I checked the rotation at each stage. The crank was beautifully smooth on its own but as you say there is a lot of resistance from six pistons being attached. The rotation effort appears uniform with no obvious high spots.

Hi All, Just refitted the crankshaft, rods and pistons. Block has been re-bored, crank has been re-ground so obviously with new bearings, pistons and rings. How easy should it be to rotate the crank once all torqued down? I haven't rebuilt an engine for 25 years so lacking a bit of feel/experience. I just want a little confidence before proceeding further!! Currently it is very difficult to turn simply gripping the front pulley but needs a lever between the fan bolts. Is that normal? Thanks Phil

Thanks all for the guidance. Correct gaskets now ordered. Spent today cleaning the block, oilways, con rods etc in readiness for commencing assembly! Quite excited 😊

Gary, flat top pistons? Yes.

Doug, many thanks for the quick reply (14 mins!) Looking at that photo I am pretty sure I have a non recessed block and will proceed on that basis. The car had been laid up for 30 years when I bought it so have not driven it. The previous owner did start it up and it sounded pretty good given the circumstances and there was no evidence of head gasket failure!

Firstly, apologies for raising a question that has probably been discussed many many times! I have reviewed previous discussions but would like some reassurance before spending my hard earned money. I was about purchase a full gasket set to commence rebuilding my 1970 Vitesse Mk2 engine when I was asked the question recessed block or not. From previous posts I understand it is unlikely any Vitesse had the the recessed block but of course engines can be changed. My car has its original engine with the prefix HC, again, suggesting non-recessed. I am not sure how apparent the recess is but simply running my fingers across the block it does not appear to be recessed. All this convinced me I have a non-recessed engine. However the head gasket I removed from the engine has a tab at the bulkhead end - recessed?. I am thinking perhaps the wrong gasket has been fitted at some time and my engine is actually non-recessed but would greatly appreciate the views of the forum. Thanks in anticipation.

Success! Puller arrived a day early so just had a go. At first didn't look like they were going to move so I applied a little heat and hey presto. All cleaned up for a little paint before new bearings and fun with shims🙄 Best £20 I've spent recently!

I tried my leg puller strapping the legs but it wasn't successful. The sort of puller I have just ordered is like the picture below. It looks like it may be a little more stable!🤞

Thanks Pete, now at least I know why I couldn't work out how to use it! I have ordered another puller which I hope will be more effective. Arrives Friday. If unsuccessful the grinder will be coming out........

Many thanks for your assistance. I have already removed the driveshaft and inner bearings. My issue now is to remove the outer bearing from the hub. The pullers currently at my disposal are unsuitable so I borrowed the bearing puller hoping it would be the answer! Is there a common solution here or do I have to start fabricating?

Hi All, I have access to club bearing puller which apparently works in conjunction with the hub puller. Has anybody used one and if so can you please explain how it works? Yes I know I'm being thick. Thanks in anticipation😊

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Karl, you are welcome. I look forward to seeing more Like Karl and Paul (and probably many others on the forum) I would also strongly encourage mig ownership. With a little guidance and lots of practice you'd be amazed at what you could achieve! Sometimes it won't be pretty but provided the penetration is there you can grind away the mess! I would recommend gas rather than gas-less and don't waste your money on disposable bottles as its a false economy....as I found to my cost☹️

Thanks all for your welcome. Turned a corner today as I finished welding and put a coat of paint on the Vitesse chassis! Feels like real progress??

Hi all Newbie to the club and forum. I learned to drive in a 1974 MkIV Spitfire back in 1976. It was my Mums car and after I passed my test I was (occasionally) allowed to take it to school ??. I loved it. After finishing Uni and getting paid employment in 1981 I treated to myself to a TR7 FHC. It turned out to be a heap of trouble but I still thought it looked like a Ferrari.....well from the front if you squinted. No more Triumphs in my life until last year when I bought a 1969 13/60 convertible to restore. It was on the road with a current Mot but needed TLC. I then saw a 1970 Vitesse Mk2 convertible with o/d for sale on ebay. It was partially dismantled and being sold for spares. I bought it with the intention of donating the running gear to the Herald but after closer inspection decided to save it. So the Herald was put on hold and I have embarked on restoring the Vitesse?. Currently just finishing the chassis with new outriggers etc. Having a quick look through the forum I think I am going to find you and your experience invaluable, thank you in advance? Phil

Hi Karl Just joined the forum and found your thread and read through all!! I am just commencing a Mk2 Vitesse restoration myself so all this information you have provided is very interesting and useful. Like you I am on a steep learning curve (particularly with welding!) so thank you for taking the time to post all this. I recognise all those body repairs covered and no doubt I will be attempting the the same over the coming months. My car was partially dismantled on purchase so I am starting from a bare chassis which sometimes appears like an advantage but sometimes not when I think of the work ahead. Currently just replaced the outriggers. New ones came with the car so I thought it would be rude not to. The welding improves from front to back and then from left to right and is at its best on the boot outriggers ?. Need a lot more practice however before starting on bodywork? Look forward to your next instalment.