Phil C

Hi Karl I first saw your post back in July 2018 when you were repairing the bottom of your A-posts. I had just started my Vitesse and was repairing outriggers. I am only now starting the same A-post repairs so re-reading your experiences is more than useful! So a big thanks again for taking the time. Just seeing various sections cut open is very helpful. I would like to think I would do the same but I know I would fail 😕 A quick summary of my progress in the last 20 months........ Engine rebuilt. A lot easier than bodywork but still very pleasing. When I feel its all too much (like now with the body!) I pull off the cover and it makes me realise l progress has been made😎 Much of the chassis is complete albeit looking a little dusty now ☹️ CV and telescopic damper conversions. Thats the good parts, but now back to now and the front bulkhead. I had it blasted which revealed the following😳 From beneath........ I have indulged in new floor pans but they only goes so far. Modifying the outside edge to meet the existing A-post and threshold/sill is what is keeping me awake at the moment. The repair panel provides a simple flat flange which needs to meet the various profiles along the edge of the bulkhead. Hopefully the photo below illustrates this better than my limited vocabulary! I imagine there is a recognised way to tackle this repair so anyone reading this who can offer any guidance before I start, they would be very welcome (please!) Panels are not cheap so I want to be as well prepared as possible before the first cut!!

Ah, that makes sense. and i think you're half awake head is also correct .....14 main mounting points. 10/10 well done!

Yes I do. Many thanks Paul.

£116.00 or £14.50.......spot the difference? I can see a few more bits in the the Rimmer Kit but are they worth £100.00??

Martin, thanks for the quick response. My initial question was really about which mounting kit I should buy. I am guessing some are more comprehensive than others? Certainly the cost variance would suggest so?

Hi All I am getting close to reuniting the Vitesse body to the refurbished chassis in readiness for panel repairs to begin and seek a mounting kit. Various suppliers offer these with prices ranging from £15.00 to £115.00 ........I guess you get what you pay for? The body was already separate from the chassis when I bought the car so I have nothing to compare. Your experience please? Thanks in advance. Phil

Thanks all for you input. Armed with the advice provided I feel better prepared to refine the end float further. Both the hubs and drive shafts are new providing snug fitting splines so I think the nut type provided will be ok. .....however what were Triumph thinking when this design was on the drawing board 🤬🤬🤬

Thanks all for your input. I will sit the two bonnets together and work out the differences before I decide which way to go As nobody has mentioned them am I correct in thinking the bulkhead and tub are interchangeable?

Clive, Are you able to expand on where the slight change of shape is. In my ignorance I have always thought the bonnets were the same apart from the front panel/twin lights. I do now note suppliers list two separate part numbers. Thanks.

Genius Pete. I have a pillar drill so will give this a go. I also love the plywood packing seal locater solution as I didn't want to be pulling off the bearing (again!) - how easy does the seal locate or is there a knack required ?

Hi All I am getting close to completing the restoration of my Vitesse Convertible Mk2 rolling chassis/engine so beginning to plan the necessary bodywork repairs - which are extensive I have been offered a 13/60 bonnet, bulkhead and tub which, whilst still requiring much work, are far better than what I've currently got. Apart from the obvious (twin headlights and trim/badge holes) is there anything I should be aware of which would make this swap difficult? Not yet having looked at it in any detail, has anybody already converted to twin headlights on a 13/60 bonnet? Tips? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Paul. I had the opposite problem. One hub had zero end float so with one shim now has 3 thou - which I'm guessing is close enough 🤠 The other had - 8 thou so with three shims resulted in 1thou end float - which I am also considering close enough..........unless someone advises otherwise? If I had a lathe (which I don't) the skill to use it (which I don't) I suppose I could machine the end of the hub and get it perfect !

Thanks Guys, I had never seen that type of nut before. I thought that's what I had to but sought confirmation before getting the hammer out😳 Also new bearings so shimming too which is a pain but at least the hubs are on the bench. I'm following the advice note from Canley's technical archive but with only 3 thou shims available it is proving difficult achieving the exact end float. Phil

I'm currently fitting CV driveshafts to my Vitesse restoration and they came with retaining nuts as per the photo. I have not come across this type before but I guess the thin edge of the nut is tapped down into the recess once torqued up??? Any good or should I source nyloc equivalents? Personally I like to see a split pin but may be that's just my age!

Dave, I'm no metals expert! I didn't anneal it first but simply used long nose pliers. I don't think I could bend it more than once so had to be accurate first time. With hindsight heating it first would probably have been a good idea 🤓

Following on from this mornings post I can now report the Stag throttle return spring is a good replacement for the CD150 starter bar return spring. It needs to be altered to get the tails in the correct place but this was not difficult with pliers. Second picture below show the correct spring in place (foreground) and the first picture shows the modified Stag spring. As can be seen the latter does not sit squarely but does function fine.

Spring Update. Stag spring arrived. Diameter is ok but as expected tails are different but nothing that can't be altered. Width is much larger. Not sure how this will impact, probably just an aesthetic thing? Need to commence rebuild and see how it works out. Will post picture of fitted spring later (if successful!!) Photos below. Stag throttle spring on left, Vitesse starter bar spring on right - except for last one🤓.

😂 eBay estimated delivery of spring - Wed 14th August. My estimate of Vitesse running - 2021 (optimistic!) So shouldn't be a problem. Seriously though your point re one spring being sufficient is probably valid but Im sure I can find something else to fit if the Stag spring doesn't work.

Bit blowy down here too. Had to batten down the hatches yesterday with 60mph gusts! Thanks for the links Colin. The starter bar spring needs to be a larger diameter than the throttle. Burlen have throttle springs in stock. Not sure of the diameter of the Stag spring but will order one and see how I get on. To motivate myself I bolted on my first bit of bling yesterday. A nice alloy rocker cover 😎

Indeed, but two Carburetters - two pair of springs needed 🙄

Hi Colin Thanks for your help with this. The one on the right looks closest although the arm positions appear to be further apart. May create more resistance but depends on spring strength? I'm sure it would fit. Where are these available? I attach picture below showing the butterfly spring on the left and the starter bar on the right.

Hi All In need of a starter bar return spring for one of my Vitesse carbs (orig part No 019510). No 25 on attached exploded view. Normal sources no help so far. Anyone know of a source? Thanks in advance. Phil

Yes, I have now measured my old pistons and they are indeed symmetrical but still with direction markings. Perhaps something to do with the thrust side being different/stronger? Having had further discussion today with the supplier, they went back to County Pistons who confirm the pistons can be installed either way round but should all be installed the same way as defined by any markings on the crown - in my case +.020". Nick - how far from Lyme??

Hi, back so soon! Just a question regarding the County Pistons supplied for my Vitesse rebuild. They have no arrow on the crown indicating which way round they should be installed. The supplier (a nationally respected engine builder/refinisher) says that they are symmetrical and can therefore be installed either way round. The old pistons removed prior to re-bore did indicate which way they should be installed so I guess are asymmetrical. I don't recall coming across symmetrical pistons before albeit my experience is predominately motorcycles! Does it matter?

Thanks all. I think I was just worrying too much! Onwards and upwards eh? 🤓