Phil C

Evening All, Just had a frustrating hour or so trying to fit the rear handbrake cable to my Vitesse. I just can't see how to thread the cable through the two rear guides. The threaded ends seem too long to allow the cable to negotiate the bend. Obviously it does and I am being a numpty but I admit failure 🤓 Please put me out of my misery. The cable is new and the car had no cable fitted when I bought it so I have nothing to go by. Many Thanks Phil

I did lower the car on to its wheels to check this. I left it very slightly pointing up as the back end will be lower once the spring has (hopefully) settled and the rear wheels align correctly (Colin, we discussed that particular problem in an earlier post!!). The silencer is currently higher than the outrigger at the diff end but until the tub goes on I don't know if this will be a problem. The central pipe does run horizontally, parallel with the chassis and is a nice and snug under the diff and rear chassis cross member so I'm thinking I'll leave it until the tub goes on and deal with any issues that causes at the time. Thanks again fo everyone's assistance.

Exhaust now fitted. It's all quite snug to the chassis which is what I wanted but it means the length of the front silencer mounting (the adjustable one) is very short - given the length provided in the fitting kit. I am concerned that the silencer may be too high at this point and foul the boot floor once the tub is fitted. Should the silencer be roughly parallel to the rear outrigger?

........sadly needed on everything now 🤣🤣🤣

Thanks all for the quick response. The Mk2 parts book shows supports front and rear of the silencer so suggesting using both brackets on the rear outrigger. I think my original assumptions, as mirrored by Colin, is probably the way forward. i.e. the un-drilled strap supporting the front clamp on the silencer and is "adjusted" to hold the system appropriate in each case. I will proceed on this basis and see how well it fits.

Having read recently about a 12 week delivery time for exhaust systems (from the Club Shop) I decided to order one now in readiness for fitting in the New Year. Well, 10 days later it arrived! So in order to get it out of the way I am fitting it today. The fitting kit supplied was not quite as I expected and I would be grateful for some advice. The hooked strap is the surprise, doesn't appear to match the parts diagram. I am right in assuming the two holed strap fixes to the rear of the silencer section, the front pipe has a rigid metal strap and then I was going to use the hook strap in front of the silencer? If I then hold up the whole system in place and punch a hole in the appropriate point on the strap to maintain that position when fixed to the outrigger? Is that how it is supposed to be used?

Paul, thanks for the heads up on this issue 😳.........before I fit and close my nicely painted bonnet and dent it!! I also notice your fixing bolts are flush where the ones supplied with my cover are tall, standing proud, another potential conflict with the bonnet me thinks?! I will be very mindful when refitting the bonnet. Looks pretty solid though!! 😉

Thanks for the advice guys. I had thought about the brake/fuel lines and did install them first. However not thought about fitting the handbrake mechanism/cable to the tub but makes great sense so thanks for that!! Pete, well impressed with anything fabricated from scratch not sure my skills are up to that. The lower A-post repair panels from Chic Doig were god send for me and made lining everything up a simpler operation. Good luck with the panel alignment, we all know what fun that can be! I would add "Stone Chip" to "Filler" and "Seam Sealer", as it can also hide a lack of repair finesse 🤠🤠

Its been a bit of a slog but today was a big moment in the Vitesse restoration as the finished bulkhead was reunited with the chassis! There were times when I thought it would never happen but it has today and I am rather chuffed so i thought I'd share it. If any of you are at that desperate stage with your restoration right now don't give up, there will be a light at the end of the tunnel!!

Thanks for the confirmation as to that is how it should be. It just seemed odd when I first assembled it as I didn't expect a thrust bearing constantly in play. All back together now.

The bearing is 19mm thick and there is a spring inside the slave cylinder (both new). If it is intended the spring pushes out the rod to remain in contact with the activating arm then the thrust bearing must remain in contact with the clutch. If not then the arm will haver free movement between the restriction of the rod and the clutch, albeit a small amount. Is it therefore intended that the thrust bearing remains in contact with the clutch at all times? In my other (non Triumph) classic, the slave cylinder push rod is fixed to the actuating arm so that it holds the bearing away from the clutch when not in use.

Evening all, I am reintroducing my gearbox to the engine and trying to understand the clutch actuation. Unfortunately I didn't take it apart and having not owned a Vitesse before I am struggling to understand how it should work. With no fixed connection between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder push rod and no return spring attached to the fork it would appear the fork/bearing is free to rattle back and forth when not in use? Unless of course it sits against the cover plate diaphragm which surely can't be right? Engine currently out of car so can't connect up hydraulically and see how it all works/sits. I'm obviously being a bit dim but just can't see it at the moment 🤓 Please help.

Sorry Guys but Ive been off grid for a couple of weeks R&R so just caught up with the chat. As one UJ definitely requires replacing I would guess the other will not be far off and should also be replaced at the same time. Therefore, on balance (no pun intended!), I think the advice to replace with new makes most sense on all fronts. Thanks

Once again, many thanks guys!

Progress going well but another question if I may? What is the route for the pipe to the front offside from the 4-way junction? Should it run the uprights and along the top of the cross member or cross to the rear of the uprights? Thanks

Thanks both for your help, very useful 👍

Evening all, With the bulkhead and tub about to be reunited with the chassis I was looking to fit the brake and petrol pipe runs front to back along the chassis while access is good. As my car had no pipes when bought I am struggling with understanding how they are aligned and fixed. The parts catalogue lists a number of different clips, some petrol only, some brake only and some dual use and the clips which came with each pipe kit (Automec) seem a little flimsy. Holes along the chassis number 4. Two larger holes between the outriggers and one smaller hole either to the front and rear. I have a selection of clips available, some that came with the car, some that came with the pipe kits and some I have picked up at auto jumbles thinking they may be useful. Can anyone offer any advice or perhaps photos of what goes where? ........or should I just user P-clips Thanks in advance Phil

Ah! I did briefly consider they were some form of crude balancing! I think I could probably replace them in their original position using my photos and the marks left on the shaft - that is if no other work is required to the shaft. Thanks for clarifying this point - my Haynes manual helpfully provides a diagram showing the sliding end towards the gearbox but then contradicts this in the accompanying text!!

Afternoon All Just started to look at refurbishing the propshaft as part of the ongoing (never ending?) restoration project. It has two large jubilee clips attached at the slider end? I thought they may be covering up some problem but on removal all appears good. Before I proceed I would like to try and understand why they might be there. Anyone have any thoughts before I spend time/money? Also I think the previous owner had installed the propshaft the back to front - shouldn't the slider be at the gearbox end? Thanks Phil

Thanks Colin, I feel a little better about it now, just thought if there was a problem it would be easier to sort now with the the body off! I am fortunate as the shocks keep the driveshafts just clear of the chassis so movement is easier !

Hi again, Can I just ask another question now the spring is installed? Currently fitted to just the running chassis (i.e. minimum weight) I was a little surprised as to the amount of tension in the spring as I bolted it down on the diff. Standing on the chassis I cannot generate any suspension movement. Is this normal or should I be concerned? Thanks

Thanks guys, definitely no mark on my rack. Installed with nut facing back......makes sort of sense as will be out of make road spray??

Afternoon All, Just refitting the leaf spring too my vitesse and the manual states it should have "front" identified to ensure it fits the correct way round. I cannot find any such mark oil the spring. Is there a standardised location? I appreciate it is very unlikely the spring is a Triumph original so it may be located differently (or not at all). However, looking at the spring it appears to be pretty symmetrical which ever way around I fit it!! As usual , thanks in advance for any help. Phil

😱 certainly is! And impossible to find locally. Ebay to the rescue (again) All thoroughly cleaned, 574 applied and re-assembled. Oil replenished and fingers crossed. Colin, compared to yours I think mine are pretty flat 🙄

This did cross my mind too. I have checked them visually with a straight edge and they appear ok - but this has limited accuracy. I will re-clean all surfaces and try the 574 and see how we get on. Would like to conclude before the rear tub goes back on as working access is currently at its best!! 😁 Thanks all for your help 👍