Phil C

Afternoon All As part of my ongoing Vitesse restoration I replaced the inner driveshaft seals last year and have not really paid much attention to them since. However, I have just noticed a slight oil drip from each. Inspection would suggest it is coming from behind the retaining plate rather than along the shaft, i.e. perhaps not the new seals? It seems odd there is no gasket for the retaining plate as it is my understanding that it does have to retain oil. Am I missing something here or is it a case of copious use of sealant? Thanks in advance for any help Phil

Update to conclude. Following the sound advice received earlier I have been practicing the noisy, not so dark art of butchery with mixed results. I attacked the scuttle first with a piece of wood (12") with carpet on top to soften the interface. With a trusty helper on one side and a sharp intake of breath pressure was applied. Quite a lot in the end but we started very lightly. I was reasonably happy with the result. Not perfect but much improved. I was hoping the scuttle change would have improved the bonnet sides, but no, they remained as before . The bonnet edge is not easy to re-shape due to the strengthener running vertical adjacent to the trailing edge. I decided to make selective cuts into the strengthener which permitted movement to the bonnet edge. Once manipulated into a more agreeable profiles the cuts were welded up. I had less success here but there is some improvement. One problem which doesn't help is the profile of the new door skin differs from that of the bonnet. In particular the depth of the lower crease (step out) is significantly different!! See photo below looking down. This means I can only line up the centre section of the door or the lower section of the door, but not both🤨 Having said that I can probably live with how it is now.

Hmmm. I was thinking of may be shaping the block to the same profile as the scuttle? I think the two person either side approach would be best, probably more controllable than a strap? I think I will have a go at this and then, as Pete suggested, review the lower wings to see if it has also improved. I feel the lower wing adjustment has the greatest likelihood to go horribly wrong! Bread and butter to the skilled no doubt but scary stuff for me 😰

Thanks Pete, I did put a piece of ply under the centre of the bonnet but just to bring it up to the correct level not to re-profile it. A possible but not satisfactory permanent solution 🤠🤠 I must admit I am terrified of introducing a crease!! Any thoughts on the length of wood to use. I'm guessing a point load in the centre should be avoided but anything too long could introduce two point loads at either end.

Afternoon All Still going through pre paint panel fitting/gap checking. What a job! I am reasonably happy with everything now apart from the bonnet. The panel gap to the doors/scuttle are ok but its the profile which is giving me the problem. When the height is set correctly on the cones on either side the bonnet sags and is too low in the centre. See photo below. Similarly, each side profile is much straighter than the corresponding door, particularly the lower section. See photo below I can see where it needs to be fettled but fear, with my limited knowledge/skill, I may do more harm than good! Any advice from those that know? Thanks in advance. Phil

Pete, Many thanks for the quick response (as per usual! 👍)

Hi All, Quick question please. Is it possible to replace a Mk2 Vitesse leaf spring with just one lifting tool? Workshop manual suggests two are required but I was thinking one side at a time? Thanks

Thanks all for your input. Colin, your order of priority is the logic I am following and I was looking to move the door forward. The wider picture below illustrates this is possible with a little re-shaping of the leading edge of the door at the top (a pinch point with bonnet!) As you say the tub can then move forward to suit. My concern is that because I have repaired the top front area of the door carcass I may have created the problem you describe, i.e. not being able to move the 1/4 light forward to form the correct A-post gap. Its currently located at its max forward position within the door. Looking at Marks's car I am not sure I would achieve the same gap just moving the door forward. I could move the bonnet forward to allow further movement but then the bonnet/scuttle gap would be too large 🤯. As PeteH suggested, raising the door could also help but would require the bonnet to be raised to match swage lines. This would then cause problem with the scuttle/bonnet alignment 🤯. The Cill gap would not be a problem however as I am leaving the fitting of the door skin repair panel until everything else is ok and the I can align it to suit 😎. Scaling from Mark's photos I would guess his gap around 6-8mm? Can anyone confirm this is what I should be aiming for as my gap is currently 15mm? Tilting the bulkhead with packers to get the gap parallel is something I hadn't considered yet, thanks PeteL, I can add to this to my armoury as I imagine the final solution is going to be a combination of all of the above. I am beginning to realise why a Herald/Vitesse with good panel gaps is a very rare sight!!!

Evening All, Trial fitting drivers door today and given all my Lockdown Welding to the Bulkhead and Tub and the fact that the door came from another car it has gone reasonably well! However, some help with the 1/4 light would be appreciated. Can anybody help with what the gaps annotated below should be? My concern is the gap to the A-post is too big and currently I have no further adjustment but without the seals I can't be certain. In addition, what should the height difference be with the screen? Thanks again.

Thanks Guys for the offer of dimensions/source of new brackets. Fortunately I have access to a 13/60 donor chassis and will introducing it to my trusty angle grinder shortly 🤠

Evening All Trial fitting of panels and trim continues ahead of prep and paint. Today I was trying to fit the front overriders and think the mountings may have been butchered in a previous life. This seems to be confirmed by Fig 9 in the WSM. Not sure why somebody would carry out such an alteration. The car did not come with overriders so I have been blissfully unaware of this issue throughout the restoration so far. Am I correct or am I missing something? Thanks again. . Extract from WSM above, my car below.

Just received the new hinges from Canley Classics and they appear to be well made. The studs/thread look good. Although they are not marked left and right it is quite clear which is which as the photo below illustrates. Good value at £27.56 I think 😀

Thanks Guys, The point about being handed is interesting and probably makes sense with the body curvature. Just had a look at mine but they are so loose its impossible to tell left from right. Mr Haynes appears to ignore the point! Just ordered a pair from Canley's so fingers crossed for a decent reproduction and I will fettle the threads as necessary.

Just trial fitting my boot this morning and both hinges have seen better days. Replacement hinges appear very reasonable when compared to the likely cost of repair/rechroming the originals. This makes me slightly suspicious re quality 🤔 Any experience/advice out there? Thanks

Thanks, Just done, easy when you know how!!!

I am at a similar stage with my Vitesse and have used Tetrosyl Etch Primer applied with a brush. However I have been told that body filler should not be applied over etch primer and therefore it must all be removed in areas requiring filler - which are plenty in my case! Others say its not necessary. What thoughts/experience out there?

Pete, Agreed, excuse my ignorance but can I edit the title?

Hi All, Hope you all had an enjoyable socially distanced Christmas! A while back I was discussing using a Herald body as a donor for my Vitesse restoration. Included in this was the ease in which a Herald bonnet could be converted to a Vitesse bonnet. It proved a difficult thing to describe so having had a go I thought the following would help anyone else attempting the same. Three main elements to consider. 1. Headlights are smaller requiring alterations to the front end of the wings. 2. Support stiffeners between front panel and wheel arch are significantly bigger on the Vitesse. 3. Side lights are offset further on the Vitesse requiring further alteration to the wings. The difference in headlight diameter is clear from this photo as is the need to offset the sidelight. If possible you could cut sections from your Vitesse bonnet to guide the alterations. Unfortunately mine was too far gone. The other consideration here is the seating of the sidelight. It requires a flat base, and you can see the herald wing is curving up to the point it joins the front panel. The two support panels side by side. Vitesse on the right. Luckily I could salvage these from my Vitesse bonnet. This is where I am at present, not pretty but solid. I haven't managed to get a flat base for the side light so needs more work. Phil

Thanks all. I have decided to start with new pins and see where that gets me. Colin, as you say that might sort it without further work. Ed, your links were prefect, thanks for those. As mentioned above, GT6 hinges are the same and your idiot guide for hinge refurbishment was just the ticket😀. First lets see how easy they are to remove 🤨 Pete, you have a good memory as I have just looked at them and they do indeed have spline on one end. A couple of mine also have a dab weld as well! Hopefully that was done because the pins were falling out and when I grind it off they will fall out again!!

Hi All The hinges on my Vitesse restoration are badly worn. I bought a set from a well known parts supplier and was shocked at the quality. None would permit full door movement without a bit of fettling and one had as much free play as my original ones. To be fair the suppler quickly refunded me and apologised but confessed that they were the only ones currently being manufactured. As the price appears the same from all current retailers I am guessing they all come from the same place? Anyone recently obtained decent hinges? Plan B is to refurbish my existing hinges and I note it is possible to buy new hinge pins. Before I break something I was hoping for some words of wisdom from those who know. Do the pins just press out and if so does it matter in which direction? Im thinking simply replacing the pins may not help if there is wear within the hinge body itself and may be some form of collar/sleeve may be needed. If so, sounds like a lathe and more skill might be needed - way above my ability. Is there a DIY route or should I be visiting my local engineering facility? Thanks in advance.

Thanks all for your quick response. I didn't appreciate the bump stop is because of the lever arm damper 🤓 As can be seen from the photo I have already converted to telescopic shockers so can forget the bumps stops. That has saved some work 😂 Already done Gary but thanks for the tip!

Hi All I am currently utilising a 13/60 tub in the restoration of my Mk2 Vitesse. As I progress I am finding a number of differences between the two, one of which is the provision of bump stops for the rear suspension. Looking at the parts manual it appears these were only fitted to rotoflex cars? I notice there is also a large reinforcing plate (incorporating the seat belt anchor) fitted to the Vitesse which is not on the 13/60. I am replicating the latter as I feel the 13/60 seat belt anchor point requires as much help as I can provide, but the bump stop will be more difficult to fabricate as I do not a lot left from which to copy from the Vitesse! What is the view as to the need for bump stops? I am guessing it is the leaf spring which comes into contact with the stop? If the consensus is to provide them, can anyone provide pictures/dimensions for me to copy. Or does anyone know a source of remanufactured ones? Many thanks to all.

Some advice please. I am just about to commence repairing the tub from my Mk2 Vitesse. It has all the usual problem areas. I am considering options for the wheel arch/front lower wing/B-post section. Options 1. Separate repair panels for each area and cut/weld them into the existing rear wing. 2. Replace rear wing as one. There is an obvious cost saving with 1 but with my limited welding skills who knows how well it will turn out with potential distortion and holing. Wing replacement is more expensive but avoids the need for exposed joints and could provide a much cleaner/neater finish. Any pitfalls with wing replacement? Any experience/advice guys? Many thanks!

I would imagine that I am not alone in being slightly disappointed when their new Vitesse Floor pans arrived. Not quite pressed enough to be an easy fit. A request on the forum for advice met with limited success. Apparently it was a 😡🤬🤬🤯 kind of job. Well it is now complete (almost, but run out of gas) and with all ythis time on my hands I thought I would share the experience which may be of help to someone in the future even if just to show how not to do it. I had the bulkhead blasted which then tells the full extent of what work is required. Front leading edge badly corroded. Evidence of earlier brazing repairs. Sill leading into A-post also not good. Again evidence of poor earlier repairs. At least the lower inner A-post looked intact which would assist in lining things up. For those of you who are not aware the floor pan repair panels available are only pressed once, leaving the outside edge to be modified to suit the sill/A-post/bonnet catch area. Following advice from Karl (Bordfunker) I bought a pair of lower A-post repair panels from Chic Doig and I found these greatly assisted with the repair and would highly recommend them to anyone undertaking this repair. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HERALD-VITESSE-FRONT-BULKHEAD-BODY-MOUNTING-A-POST-FLOOR-ASSEMBLY-CHIC-DOIG/371166198802?hash=item566b3abc12:g:1wIAAMXQiNdRdPx4 Where to start? I decided to repair the flange around the front of the bulkhead to which the floor pan is spot welded. I removed the existing spot welds, although many were simply rusted through and other areas had been brazed/welded from previous repairs. It was a difficult job but once complete that part of the old floor pan could be cut away. I didn't remove the whole floor pan as I wanted to retain as much rigidity/shape as possible. I don't have a shrinker/stretcher so I simply cut out a strip of mild steel to the correct radius and length. This was the result with holes ready to spot weld to the new floor pan. Not quite as pretty as I had hoped for but it is solid and with some epoxy primer and a smear of filler before paint it will be ok for me. I decided to tackle the sill to A-post next as combined with the above would permit the Chic Doig repair panel to fitted/aligned. I am not aware of a repair panel for this location but no doubt someone will tell me otherwise. But with very limited fabrication skills I thought I would give it a go! I thought I would cut out the rot but try and keep the edges to hopefully allow me to reform it with basic repair panels. In the photo above the clean cut of the sill represents the extent of the Chic Doig repair panel which will form the base to the left. I started to replace the underlying rot. And then tried to reform the shape with separate little panels I formed in my vice. I than added the Chic Doig repair panel (red oxide) to try and align everything up and tack in place. Not pretty, and needs a little more work to address aesthetics. On the inside the existing A-post was spot welded to the Chic Doig repair panel. Note this has to be cut /modified towards the front in order to accept the new floor pan. I now had a reasonable base to which I could begin to fix the replacement floor pan to. The remainder of the old pan could be removed as the sill/A-post structure was reasonably stiff. I removed the bulkhead from the chassis to facilitate this. All previous work had been undertaken with the bulkhead bolted to the chassis in an attempt to keep its shape during repairs. I clamped the floor pan to the bulkhead. It can be seen from the above photos the extent of modifications required to the outside edge and also the Chic Doig repair panel is clearly visible (red Oxide). The side view shows the floor pan clamped to the mounting brackets. It needs to be cut here to permit a higher fixing. The floor pan was now at the correct level albeit still requiring some modifications to the outside edge. At this point I tack welded a couple of points on the front edge and re mounted the bulkhead to the chassis to ensure it remained aligned before full welding. Once back on the chassis the whole edge could be fully welded. Photo before grinding/tidying up . From underneath showing how the floor pan has been trimmed/modified. Currently only tack welded as Ive run out of gas!! The extent of the replacement Chic Doig Panel is clear in this photo. .......then repeat for the other side 😊 Not perfect I know and if I did it again I would probably do a better job, but hopefully this provides some assistance to anybody undertaking the same repair in future if only to let them make more informed decisions. Screen pillar repair next....eek😬 Keep safe everyone.

Those Chic Doig repair panels are just the job😀 Pair bought, thanks for the pointer. Still a lot of fiddly-joining-together stuff to do. Here we go........