Phil C

🤠🤠🤠 ........just when you think you've done a good job!! Following Badwolf/Pete's comments I've checked a little more into the details. Polyester resin used (Isopon) + Cover material - Polyethylene = 🥴 It all seems well fixed (at the moment) and the Dodomat should help on the underside? Pete, I think the pop rivet idea is a good idea. Do you think overlaying and extending the area with epoxy/matting would be worthwhile?

Bit late to the scene but if you are not already aware Trev's Blog on YouTube is a very useful mine of bodywork/paintwork information.

Lets hope it does! I didn't really give it much thought but it appears pretty strong. Lets hope it doesn't fall apart after being exposed to a little vibration 😳

Thats a neat solution to the problem. Ive taken a different approach as I was concerned the lever aperture might be too close to the vertical face at the rear of the tunnel and created difficulties in sealing the lever rubber or fitted carpets later? I took drastic measures and cut the tunnel in half 😳. I then fixed the two pieces in position with the front part snug to the bulkhead and the rear suiting the gear lever. I then used fibreglass matting to fill the gap between them. Once it had gone off I carefully removed the tunnel and reinforced the join on the underside. I still had to modify the rear fit to the propshaft tunnel and again this was done with the fibreglass matting. No going back. Two halves fixed in position. The tunnel lost a little rigidity once cut so I used some timber props to hold it in position whilst the resin went off. Completed joint and rigidity restored. Step at rear to ensure seal. Fettling complete and good seal achieved . Underside finished off with Dodomat to (hopefully) keep the noise down! I intending conventional sound deadening under the carpet on the inside and the two together should be ok?

Agreed. Its not great but I don't think there is one available specifically for the Vitesse (my original question🤔) Only option is to make this one fit 🤠

Received new cover and despite being assured by the vendor it is common to both GT6 and Vitesse.....it isn't. As per Doug's cover it is branded as Moss although not bought from them. When I position the cover to suit the gear lever it is around 1" short of the bulkhead and marginally short of the tub as shown in photos below. Fettling required 🙄 Yes, Yes and I didn't. Ta Gap to bulkhead. Gap to Tub

Thanks all for your input. I have been assured that the GT6 and Mk2 Vitesse share the same gearbox cover and on that basis one has been ordered. I will confirm this to be so (or not) once received and offered up to the car.

Can I continue this older thread please? I am looking to acquire a gearbox tunnel for my Vitesse Mk2 restoration. I am somewhat confused as some suppliers list one and claims it fits GT6, Vitesse and herald. Others list one suitable for the GT6/Vitesse and another for the Herald. Others (Club Shop incl) list one for the GT6 and one for the Herald but no mention of the Vitesse. Paul, I see you fitted a modified GT6 to your Vitesse. Is this accepted way to go or is there a source for the Vitesse? Ideally I would prefer a Poly one rather than fibreglass. Thanks.

Thanks all. Re polishing, I think you all confirmed what I was already thinking in that its difficult to get a result and even then this would be limited to very minor marks/scratches. Plus the cheap products are a complete waste of space, as usual! Re sourcing a new screen, I have found a couple of suppliers but unsure of quality/fit etc (as with all parts these days🤨) so was just hoping for a recommendation. As said a slow moving part. However they probably all come from the same manufacturing source anyway!!

Evening all, Any experience of polishing out windscreen scratches? I notice a few companies selling windscreen refurb/polishing kits but not had any experience. My Vitesse screen has wiper marks (plus others) and I was wondering how feasible it is to rectify. I can feel the marks when running my finger nails over them so I am thinking may be beyond saving? Any recommended source for a new screen? Thanks Phil

Thanks Martyn, "Dashboards" does indeed find a very useful thread. I did a search before I posted but didn't find that.....not sure what I typed in the search box!! 🤓

Morning All, I am currently considering options for the refurbishment of my Vitesse dash and door cappings. My dash base is badly warped so will need replacing but the cappings look sound. Any recommendations for who I should be talking to? Are new finished dashboards available? I've seen TR ones for sale but not found any for a Vitesse. I have also spoken to a few companies and costs can vary 100% between them but, as they say, you may just get what you pay for. However I do have a limited budget and any first hand experiences/recommendations would be very helpful. Thanks.

Thanks Guys I was confused as my original old harness incorporated this relay but the new Autosparks harness didn't. However they do sell an overdrive add on package which I have and so I have now identified the correct connections. Now its cleaned up I can see the faint 6RA and the terminals match the wiring diagram W1, W2, C1 & C2. Also checked my speedo and it does indeed have a regulator attached as per Pete's photos. Thanks again.

Morning All Electrics - not my strong point 🤨 Am I correct in thinking the highlighted item is a Voltage Stabiliser? From the wiring diagram it appears to protect the fuel and temp gauges. I am currently fitting a new harness, supplied (Autosparks) to suit an Alternator installation and on it this connection is not provided for. I understand alternators have built in voltage regulators and therefore the Control box becomes obsolete but is the Voltage Stabiliser also unnecessary? I have spoken to Autosparks but they were unable to provide an answer! 😳 Thanks in anticipation.

Thanks Guys, I'm guessing that's the stuff from the TSSC Shop? However I might have some Hammerite already in stock 🙂

Morning All Looking to re-paint the boot panel on my Mk2 and wondered if there was a particular colour accepted as best to replicate the original or do folks simply select their own best match? Thanks 🇺🇦

I wouldn't, its just a library picture, I don't actually have one to chuck! Hence the need for one

Thanks Guys. I don't think the compression is the main problem although I will have a closer look to check. The boot closes ok albeit with a push. Its the opening which is difficult as the lower edge boot lip 'hooks' around the 'bubble' essentially locking it on. It does open but is in danger of pulling the seal off its seating. I was thinking the small moulded rib along the length of the seal is not helping (something to catch on?). Which way around should the seal be installed? With the rib facing the outside edge (as I have) or with it facing inwards? In terms of stopping water ingress I thought I had it right but facing inwards may help boot opening as there would be less chance for the edge to catch. Im also thinking I might cut it off along the lower edge to make it easier for the boot edge to slide over? Or may be I should just live with it and the seal will eventually settle into a suitable shape? Any thoughts/suggestions? Ta

Evening All, Just fitted a new boot seal and having difficulty closing the boot. Most of the seal is fine but the profile does not permit the lid to pass over the lower edge. I'm guessing the new seal is a "nearest to the original" profile and needs some fettling but before I get my lump hammer out I thought I would seek some sensible advice! I have no old seal to compare with as the car didn't come with one. Does the seal profile look correct? Is there a fix I should be aware of? Thanks in advance.

All installed now and working fine. I did try and measure the cable length but this proved too difficult with it on the car. Anyway I'd decided it wasn't coming off whatever length it was and I would simply extend it as necessary to fit. In the end I welded in a 2" section on one side rather than source a barrel nut. Hopefully my weld has penetrated adequately 😳. According to Chic Doig (see Clive's posting above) the length should be 69.5" or 177mm. Thanks all for your help with this. Phil

Clive, thanks for the link, very useful information. (Its strange but I spent a while searching the forum before posting and never found that one) I will try and measure my cable (which also came from Paddocks🤔) but could be difficult to be accurate now its installed and I'm loathed to remove it given the epic struggle to fit it today! I did use a donor herald tub to which I welded guides taken from my scrap Mk2 tub. Although I did measure carefully it is possible this might be the cause if slightly out? Checked the invoice and it is a 151227 listed. However the cable was loose with no part reference on it when it arrived. I am beginning to think I might just extend the threaded end to make it fit. Least hassle solution!

What a job! Following the advice given I eventually fitted the cable to the guides but my joy was short lived as the cable did not appear to be long enough. With all three ends adjusted to permit the maximum length and tensioning it as best I can it was still about 1" too short. I note the 1600 cable is listed separately from the 2 litre. Do they differ in length and could I have been supplied the wrong one? Or is there something else I need to know?

Thanks all, I will give it a go later today. Its got bleeding knuckles written all over it 🤨 Thought I had this covered as last year when I was advised this (on this very Forum) and the body was off the chassis. I therefore fitted everything apart from this cable!! Just didn't see the problem at the time and thought it would simply thread through from the sides 🤓

I believe they were only fitted to the Vitesse although I guess some were retro fitted to Heralds. The bit I need is like this but for the N/S

In good/restorable condition please. Thanks