Colin

Hi Chaps, Word of caution and I hope this might assist:- because of a.n. other car failure, my Herald became or every day car. I too, had a clunking from what I thought was the diff - or possibly a U/J on the way out and had only limited time to investigate (because how much time can you afford to have your everyday car off the road when rural- and with kids). Trying to do the 'quickest' thing, I changed the half-shaft U/J's, as there didn't seem to be excessive play in the diff (Lucas Services had replaced years before). But the clunk still continued. When I was away from home, my wife and daughter nearly had a bad accident as the rear drive began - we now know - to come apart. At the diff end of your half-shafts is a yoke into which the U/J is inserted. You will note that the half-shaft, at the yoke end, is splined and pressure fitted into the yoke, with a cross-through-pin pressed through as security just in front of the yoke. Well, I don't know what the chances are of that joint failing, but fail it did - and I have never heard of such an incident from anyone else ever. And while all the other rear suspension elements held together, that half-shaft caused all sorts of steering problems. Fortunately, there was no harm done except a very shaken couple of family members who were loathe to drive the car again. I bought a complete, assembled half-shaft set from Brimmer Bros and fitted (old half-shaft came in handy to lever the leaf spring). Problem solved. SO:- Please, please, check the half shaft security pins for veracity. BTW; not sure if those fully assembled half-shaft sets are still available, but they save a hell of a lot of grief when you consider all the other dismantling which would have to take place! Best, Colin

Decades ago, when I was even greener than I am today, Lucas Services, who used to do our MOT's, advised the Herald needed a new Diff (along with two new rear hub bearings which they then couldn't get out even with multiple tons fo puller force). Of course it wasn't needed, but because of my stupidity I agreed and they too, put in a Diff with no drain plug, about which I was later most aggrieved . . . why wouldn't you . . . ??!

Hello Mike & fellow enthusiasts; Mike . . . congrats in removing the water pump nut. I too, should like to be furnished with water temp and oil pressure info inside the cockpit (1970 1200 Herald saloon). However, I'm the type who doesn't have the expertise (or relevant equipment) to re-thread anything should it all go horribly wrong on a removal attempt! I've discovered that when trying to remove old and previously unmolested nuts, working them as if to tighten to begin with (obvs after loads of WD40 has soaked in for days), can work wonders and although counter-intuitive, often works well. My question to you is this:- what type of sender did you acquire to fit into that aperture (5/8s as Pete Lewis said??) and from where is it available please? From this point on, what variety of sender was it (again, Pete Lewis describes 2 types) and was the relevant gauge easy to find, and connect to? I suppose my 3rd question would be; what kind of temperature ranges should a reasonably healthy engine display at the gauge . . . Nine months have dragged by and I am hoping to get my Herald back from my metal worker before too long (bonnet and front wheel arches rebuild, front sidelight areas repaired, wheel arch repairs, tread plates renewed, rear wing 'shoulder' repairs etc etc), which means that I shall mostly be back to ensuring her mechanics are as sound as can be given she's on 147k miles, original engine (still going strong). At which point I can hopefully follow Colin & Pete's instructions for flushing the cooling system out, as he spotted congealed gunge in the thermostat housing and, the heater has rarely put out any significant heating - which made Winter in rural France when I was there precarious to say the least! Looking forward to hearing from you. Best, Colin

Thanks for all the help and advice chaps. Grateful. It's a job waiting to be done when back from bodyshop. 😊

Hi chaps. I ran my Herald, rad cap off. All heater pipes came up hot before the rad water started to boil ! Just shut her down before everything got covered in boiling anti freeze! I guess, if the rad water boils visibly like that, that the stat is working (or hot water could not make its way to the rad, right?). So I'm guessing I'm safe from seizing the engine if rad cooling is available to me. Leaves me this conundrum:- windscreen vents put out virtually no warm air when the cabin vent is shut. Later, after a short run, I checked driver's side of the cabin vent and was horrified the air was not warm. Tried the passenger side which proved to be warm!! So how come that disparity for starters and, the fact that either way round, othing warm is coming through the window vents!!??!!

Hi Pete. I'm amazed you followed my post. Just re-read it. What do you/does anyone think about running her up to temp with the rad cap of - just to the point where the stat opens (if it will) and begin to see the water circulating? Surely at that point it'll be clear that the stat os - or isn't opening. This thing about taking heater box pipes off anx trying to ram water in seems wierd to me and a goid way of introducing even more air into the system . . . 🤔😊

Hi Pete. I'm amazed you followed my post. Just re-read it. What do you/does anyone think about running her up to temp with the rad cap of - just to the point where the stat opens (if it will) and begin to see the water circulating? Surely at that point it'll be clear that the stat os - or isn't opening. This thing about taking heater box pipes off anx trying to ram water in seems wierd to me and a goid way of introducing even more air into the system . . . 🤔😊

Have just developed the same prob with a couple of first tentative runs after much get-back-on-the-road runs:- have recently had heat from the vents whikst working on her and checking but on last test run I had no warmth from the vents (to remove the steaming up of window my body geat was causing). This won't risk the enginr seizing will it? But what's causing it? I have ordered a new 'stat and will replace unless I can find summat to test old one in :- but if it's an air block, what's causing it - and how to rid . . . ?🤔🤔

Have just developed the same prob with a couple of first tentative runs after much get-back-on-the-road runs:- have recently had heat from the vents whikst working on her and checking but on last test run I had no warmth from the vents (to remove the steaming up of window my body geat was causing). This won't risk the enginr seizing will it? But what's causing it? I have ordered a new 'stat and will replace unless I can find summat to test old one in :- but if it's an air block, what's causing it - and how to rid . . . ?🤔🤔

Hi Paul, There were numerous ideas about using an intermediary tube that fitted in the narrow gaitor neck and passed over the rack knuckle. I had nothing handy and making one from a coke bottle didn't work for me (nor any other plartic bottle necks, sadly). I ended up doing it what I thought was the 'hard way', but found it wasn't that bad in the end! Not too much of a struggle actually. Used some decent jubilee clips. Robert's your Uncle. Glad your job was successful, too. 😊

Hi folks. Hazards dor my 1200 saloon:- Apologies this is done from my phone:- I'm trying to get to grips with the Club hazards kit instructions. I'm no electrician though. Seems to me, given that both starter solenoid and indicator flasher unit are all passenger-sided, I'm going to need a reel of cable at the very least to extend the relatively short cabling supplied on the unit . . . which I obviously intend to affix on the driver's side. The first instruction is regarding connecting the switch to a starter solenoid live feed. I can see what I think must be the live feed at the solenoid; the positive battery cable and what must be live to the alternator comes from it and I DO have a spare spade tag at the same point on the solenoid. But it IS the opposite side of the car from where the switch is to be situated. Second instruction concerns identifying connections to the flasher unit (replaced in the past). Couldn't see any spare tags on that unit though. Has anybody done this job and might be able to walk me through the connections please?? Pics are always good . . . Cheers, Colin.

Thanks, Chums! I'd prolly go with Robert Plant's 'velvet glove' technique!! 🤣🤣

Colin; Pete . . . many thanks. Yrs, I have been wondering about the rear side glass rubbers (renewal of). And, don't forget, I only want to lift the lid enough to get to the rust developing on the rear shoulders. After that, I'll leave to someone with 4 hands and more expertise! Best, C.

Chaps . . . Herald 1200 saloon. An earlier post of mine generated advice that I should not single handedly (and not having done the job before) attempt changing the screen rubbers. This previous advice re screen rubbers I took to heart meaning also that the rear side screen rubbers are probably just as tricky. Fair enough. But I want to get to the rear body wing ‘shoulders’ which start under the rear side screens and extend alongside the boot rear deck seam (photos). I have Lindsay Porter and Peter William’s "Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration", which describes the consummate ease of removing the Herald roof, but shows a Coupe rather than saloon. I wondered what or how the rear side screen rubbers are fixed to the lower bodywork (car side) at this point and, if I tried to ease the roof to allow access to the rear wing shoulders I want to attend to, whether they would adhere to the body or lift with the roof removal, however slight that may be (remember, solo working here). Moreover . . . ARE they not refittable by one person? And then there are implications for rear deck rubber and roof header rubber seal issues. Exacerbated by this is my grinding wait for someone who will do some body welding work coming back to me to say he is ready to do my Herald . . . so should I even bother in the interim, or wait until he can attend to matters, because if I partially remove or completely remove, I may not get it back together sufficiently to drive it to his works thereafter! All advice welcome. Best, C.

Thanks Pete! I would imagine it'd be a question of getting a Solex part number!! Cheers though - I'll deffo be check8ng him out 😉😉

Hey Mad4 . . . ! That's really useful info., thanks ever so. Best, C.

Cheers Gary. I now have several sources of info and good quality parts purchases by the looks of it!! Best to All. C

Pimp my Vit :- Thanks! Those outer two screws in the lower left set deffo look the part. Not sure about the other two! 😊

Peter, That's also good, specific info., too. Many thanks, Best, C. Just for info folks, the missing screws I replaced long ago with flat head screws and wing nuts on thr bottom. They tighten up nicely and I have never had a problem with the carb as a result! But original, they certainly are not!! The carb has a casting date stamp of 1963 on my 1970 Herald! Pimp my Vit :- Thanks! Those outer two screws in the lower left set deffo look the part. Not sure about the other two! 😊

That's a useful suggestion, Doug. Thanks! C.

Peter, That's also good, specific info., too. Many thanks, Best, C. Just for info folks, the missing screws I replaced long ago with flat head screws and wing nuts on thr bottom. They tighten up nicely and I have never had a problem with the carb as a result! But original, they certainly are not!! The carb has a casting date stamp of 1963 on my 1970 Herald! 😁

Thanks Badwolf. Useful information! Best, Colin

Thanks All. In my calculations, I looked at Strimmer Bros site and the seat foam looks really thin, which in itself is a worry. Obviously the big up-front cost is the covers which come as a pair. The foams, wrap, clips (if needed) all seem to be individually available. As per Badwolf, I'm inclined to temporarily plug up the deteriorating foam wrap (when the new carpet goes in), talk to Park Lane to assess my exact element needs and build techniques, and tackle it when unlikely to be beetling around later in the year. Cheers chaps! Colin W

Thanks chaps. I hold a small stock of M size screws. M4 slips through, M6 is too fat. I would imagine if I got hold of M5's, the threads would not match. The 3/16 option sounds like one I should pursue via the 'net. Cheers and best, Colin W

Team! Looking at the Club and other suppliers, I am mightily confused about the elements I need and the difficulty/easiness scale there would be to remove 50 yr old seat innards (the rubber diaphragm looks as good as new) and replace those bits that have deteriorated and then rebuild. Given the driving seat has never been apart, all I can see is that the wrap of the old foam and the old foam itself, is not as good as it was. Strange . . . But . . . are the replacement parts (I'm sure the covers are excellent) foam, wraps etc), of a quality that is better than giving the job over to an auto upholsterer?? Any advice gratefully received. Best, Colin