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Darren Groves

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Darren Groves

  1. Got a little more time on the car today, enough to set the fuel pressure at 3 bar and there are no leaks :D , the only slight downer here was the fuel pump, as it is noisier than I hoped. It won't be heard when driving I'm sure but it's noticeable, though for now as long as it works it's something I can live with and revisit later.

     

    I then tried to start her up, a little splutter but nothing. Had a little while trying to see how to set up the Fast Idle valve then thought I'd try again and this time she burst into life. Wouldn't run without keeping the revs up, but happily restarted several times and revved quite happily, had to call it a day as I needed to add coolant and time was getting on.

     

    Now the fun begins....

    • Like 1
  2. Hi Roger,

     

    I did put a baffle behind the new tube, but the clearance to the rocker shaft is less on this side so had to taper it a little. Incidentally the Alloy cover I have doesn't have anything.

     

    I think there are pros and cons for mounting the MAT sensor both near the TB's or further down near a remote filter as I have done, Nick on the Sideways forum did explain, don't think it matters too much.

     

    I've used PTFE fuel line to and from the fuel rail, but similar R9 spec as you've ordered everywhere else. I found the 12-14mm hose clips fitted the best, just in case you haven't got those yet.

     

    Darren

  3. Haven't had that much time on the conversion recently, but I did do a little on the crankcase ventilation. My engine has suffered from excessive crankcase pressure for a while (have another waiting in the wings), so as I needed to make a blanking plate for the now redundant fuel pump I thought I'd add a 16mm breather tube to it, this should help expel some of the unwanted pressure. 

     

    I also decided to swap back to a standard crankcase cover rather the the current alloy one, this is because I wanted to increase the size of the breather tube from 13mm to 16mm and have it exiting from the other side, it was easier to do on a steel one. The original 13mm tube will be removed and blanked off. Both breather tubes will vent to atmosphere via rubber hoses run to under the car, I may decide to add a catch tank at some point, but that's a job for another day.

     

    post-31-0-55594700-1484074435_thumb.jpg  post-31-0-43907700-1484074514_thumb.jpg

     

     

     

     

  4. Hi Roger,

     

    Undoubtedly your tank mods are very professional in their appearance, so well done. I'm not entirely happy with my pump being where it is on the boot outrigger, but it was the simplest solution to the problem. Might re-investigate at a later date but as long as it's functional for the moment.

     

    Had to do a new double fuel pipe run on mine also as it was originally 1/4". Strangely my old Vitesse tank which i removed was a 1/4" tube on the pick up, but the one I bought to modify and subsequently fitted was 5/16" so didn't need to be changed. Presumably Triumph used a mixture of fuel line sizes.

     

    Darren

  5. Hi Roger,

     

    I am desperately trying not rush anything but patience isn't a quality that I posses much of, but it's better to be longer doing the job and get it right and how you want it.

     

    I spent a few hours on the car today, amongst other things I wanted to calibrate the 02 sensor and test the fuel system for leaks. After some head scratching as to why the pump and 02 sensor would only stay powered for a couple of seconds, I then remembered that they are fed by the same relay which is earthed through the ECU, which won't stay powered if the car isn't cranking or running. This was only after rechecking the wiring and moving the earth for the 02 sensor. I knew this, I've read it several times, but nothing much stays in my head these days.....

     

    I am hoping the 'Tune Analyze Live' function in Tunerstudio is going to get it running to a reasonable state, but that does rely on me getting it running and idling half decent first.

     

    Keep up the good work and keep us updated.

     

    Darren

  6. You might want to read this thread: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/1211-alloy-wheel-offset/ 

     

    I went through the whole Offset thing a year ago, didn't find Watford Classics very helpful at all, I ended up going direct to JBW who matched the price. Watford Classics also wouldn't supply with metric wheel nuts (as I was fitting Freelander studs), whereas JBW were happy to for the same cost and generally were easier to deal with.

     

    JBW recommended ET20, whereas Watford Classics said ET25. Mine were 4.5j but with the same size Tyre as your using, no problems with rubbing for me.

  7. Had a few small parcels arrive today, so managed to get some of the niggly bits done.

     

    I wasn't happy with the fuel hose clips I had fitted, plus I was a couple short, so I swapped them for some slightly smaller and better fittings ones, so that is the fuel supply and return done. Just need to fire up the pump, set the required pressure and check for leaks.

     

    Decided to replace the TPS sensor on the Throttle Body with a new one just to be sure, also tidied up the throttle cable linkage with a couple of penny washers at the adjuster and a better fitting solderless nipple.

     

    The Air ducting from Throttle Body to filter also cut to length and fitted.

     

    A last check at the fusebox with a multi-meter to be sure they were being powered correctly, couldn't resist a quick switch on just to make sure the fuel pump came to life, which it did.

     

    If the fuel lines don't leak when under pressure, then I am mighty close to trying to get he started. Getting a little nervous now as the software side of it looks a little daunting. :unsure::blink:

     

    post-31-0-55721600-1483467173_thumb.jpg post-31-0-86143000-1483467239_thumb.jpg

  8. Hi Roger,

     

    Yes, seem to have made good progress in the last couple of weeks, probably due to doing all of the jobs on the conversion that didn't stop me using the car, so now it's just the under bonnet bits. Hope to have it running in the next couple of weeks, time permitting.

     

    Know the feeling about getting bogged down, my Fuel Tank solution was much simpler than yours though, plus I bought a spare so it was just a matter of swapping over.

     

    Keep us posted with progress.

     

    Darre

  9. Another productive couple of sessions, the to do list is getting shorter.

     

    Yesterday I fabricated a bracket to secure the fuel rail so it doesn't shoot off when under pressure, needs a slight modification as it seems to be holding the injectors a little too high.

     

    I'm using steel braided PTFE fuel line to/from the fuel rail, I hadn't thought it through on how I was going to connect them to the regulator and filter, so yesterday I ordered a few more fittings and at 10am this morning they arrived, this meant I could connect up the last of the fuel lines. I also decided on how to connect the water hoses from the thermostat housing to heater.

     

    I am just waiting on a few hose connectors before I can test to see if the fuel lines can hold the required pressure, once I'm happy this is the case I can then think about getting it to the point of trying to start it. Before that I need to set-up a few bits.

     

    The Coolant & Air Temp sensors are ones that are listed in the ECU, so it's just a matter of selecting them from a drop down list. The Throttle Position Sensor will need calibrating, but that's simple, no idea how to set up the IAC valve, but that'll only be needed for warm-up.

     

    I bit the bullet and upgraded from the free to registered version of the Tuning software, I hate paying for software, but importantly it has it's own auto-tune function. Literally you just need to drive the car and it will learn where to make adjustments to fuel etc. so I suspect it will be worth every penny of the £50.00.

     

     

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    post-31-0-66515200-1483019720_thumb.jpg

     

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  10. Have had a couple of sessions on the Herald in the last week, so have made some decent progress.

     

    First was to get the fuel rail drilled for the injectors, this was done by me and a friend who is a retired engineer, fiddly job but turned out well. I then had to get the ends squared off and tapped to take the -6 adapter. I was a bit worried about clearance between fuel rail and heater valve, but it just fits thankfully.

     

    All the under dash wiring was done a few months ago, poked through the bulkhead and left coiled up. So it was time to finish this off and fit the connectors for the injectors, IAT Sensor, CLT Sensor, TPS, and IAC Valve.

     

    Also shortened the accelerator cable to work on the Rover Throttle Body. Need a couple of penny washers to secure the cable better and a more appropriate solderless nipple, but it all works fine.

     

    Also removed the original 6mm fuel line and replaced with 8mm, this will be the return back to the tank.

     

    post-31-0-45821500-1482603829_thumb.jpg post-31-0-01614500-1482603921_thumb.jpg post-31-0-94219500-1482603987_thumb.jpg

     

    Getting quite close.....

     

     

     

     

  11. Hi Roger,

     

    I haven't seen that link before, only that it should be installed between 10-2 o'clock. The choice of angle was limited given the position, as it had to fit between gearbox and chassis rail. It's difficult to tell from the image, but mine certainly isn't upright.

     

    Darren

  12. Managed a sneaky hour in the garage this evening, exhaust manifold back on and 02 sensor in, angle and positioning worked well as it's all quite tight down there.

     

    post-31-0-83625500-1481485181_thumb.jpg

     

    Inlet manifold bolted on and Throttle Body attached. I hadn't done any trial fits, just took measurements so there was a really good chance I'd done something stupid. The good news is that the Throttle Body is exactly where I wanted it to be and there's clearance between it and the bonnet when it's closed. There's also a nice sized gap between the other end of the plenum and the bulkhead and the wheel arch.

     

    post-31-0-64275100-1481485302_thumb.jpg

     

    I can now start running the wires to injectors, air & water temp sensors, TPS and IAC valve.

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