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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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i don't arf like the look of these!!!!!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131905568864?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They look lovely, but add the cost of the Weber inlets and that is an expensive solution. My conversion is on a budget, so anything like that is just not up for consideration. Apart from really looking forward to fabricating the manifold, I bought enough steel to make about a dozen for £50.....
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(but who is going to weld a petrol tank?)
I have done and am considering doing it to my spare so I can modify for the EFI conversion, but not something to do without some serious prep first.
Most radiator specialist will repair/modify fuel tanks, they will send them off for a deep clean before working on them.
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Got the PM, will email list of bits to you in the morning as I won't have access to my Laptop tonight.
Have you considered what you'll be doing with your fuel tank? As the Spit tank is quite flat, you'll need a swirl pot. It's a bit simpler on the Herald as the tank is tall and thin, so will just have an outlet at the bottom.
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Hi Roger,
This is quite funny, you're asking all the same question I was a few weeks ago so it's good timing!
The TB you've highlighted is the same as mine, but I have the 48mm one, depends on what your target BHP is but I think either will work just fine on a 1300/1500cc. Mine was used and with TPS, but I did get it very cheap, so not the end of the world if the TPS doesn't work. I always like a bargain, so I'd risk a used one
You'll need some kind of ignition amplifier, they are not built into the MS. EDIS makes the installation simpler, plus you already have it there if you've been using MJ. The EDIS is pretty reliable and robust, personally I'd leave it in place.
Here's a few links to parts that I've highlighted, if you want my full list send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward it to you:
Fuel Pump or use a Bosch one, the part number is in the title
Regulator Avoid the cheap Unbranded/Chinese/Blingy regulators, you may find that they don't regulate the pressure very accurately.
Air Temp Sensor can be mounted in the plenum just after the TB, but may suffer from heatsoak or if you are going to run some kind of trunking from the TB to a filter then somewhere in between there will be fine, most productions cars have them like this.
Hope that helps!
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Hi Roger,
You can have a standard twin carb manifold modified, but those that have gone this route have been disappointed with the result. I am certainly no expert, so others may explain better, but basically the old manifolds are quite restrictive so you'll be going to a lot of effort for no real gain.
A multiple throttle body set up is just more difficult, that's why many go for the plenum and single throttle body, it's what most car manufacturers do, so it must work!
Microsquirt uses batch injection, so it squirts fuel when not on the compression stroke. You can set-up sequential injection (only squirts when on compression) with Megasquirt and I think Microsquirt does semi-sequential (IIRC).
Darren
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Roger,
As Clive and I have mentioned, Nick Jones is the font of all EFI knowledge, get yourself on the Sideways forum and you'll find loads of info.
Where on earth did you get your MS from, all that for £250?
Just a couple of thoughts....
I don't really see the point in doing an EFI conversion by modifying a SU or Stromberg Manifold, you'll end up disappointed and wanting to change it. Do some more research, there are far better ways of doing it. An injector per cylinder will be better than a singe or dual point, so if you go that route the injector you mentions will over fuel it.
Yes to an ATS, and a Microsquirt supports On/Off or PWM Idle Valves, but not stepper type.
Microsquirt has built in narrowband lambda support, which is fine if you're going to get it set-up on a rolling road and leave it alone. If you want to try and set up yourself you'll need to choose a wideband controller.
Early days with mine, but here's a couple of pics.
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Hi Roger,
If you haven't seen them before, then have a read of these:
http://triumphspitfire.rickbaines.com/category/fuel-injection/
http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/7048-manifold-fabrication/
It's worth joining the Sideways forum, Nick Jones on there is a great source of information.
Darren
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and find a new auto electrician
Haha...
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The pickup is a Devon car, but the south so not sure who it belongs to. I'll get Sue Franklin to reply, she will know.
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I have one of these: http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/77066, but your method should at least give you an idea if they are roughly the same.
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Check the camber, see if they are wildly different.
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The small section of bodywork that the bonnet cone bolts to can get pulled down over the years, so I've had to lever it upwards in the past which can gain the few mm you may need to make it a snug fit.
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Something else worth reading: http://canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/overheating
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Can't buy them new, so it will be eBay of one of the traders who deal in used items such as Spitfire Graveyard or local to me in Devon is a guy known as Tavistock Steve, but sells plenty on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/triumphspitfirespares?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 or call him on 07976 735590, he's always got all sorts there.
There is a notorious trader in SE London that will probably have some, but buy from them at your peril.....
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Cheers Darren.
Just want to test one Iv'e bought, direct from battery.
I guess live (no2)
Earth (E)
Dave
Hi Dave,
You've pretty much got it. To test just connect 2 to Live, E to Earth, then just touch another Earth wire to 1 to replicate the switch.
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I done that to mine on a sharpening stone and lubricated with oil.
I'm sure someone will say you shouldn't, but have done a 1000 since doing it and they seem to be fine.
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Hi Dave,
On my 13/60 it's:
1 - Green/Black - To Wiper Switch (Earth)
2 - White - Live
E - Black - Earth
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Really - most have the opposite opinion, on 2.5 pistons/rings anyway
http://www.wishboneclassics.com/tech/tr6/engine/triumph-tr6-cast-piston-comparison
What is your objection to the County rings?
Nick
Hi Nick,
From my own experience. My current engine is suffering from excessive crankcase pressure and compression is down on a couple of cylinders, this on an engine that has done around 10k miles since a rebuild using County Pistons & rings.
I am in the process of rebuilding my spare engine so was trying to find some NOS Pistons. After trying to find alternatives to County I came across a few mentions on other forums questioning their quality. After trying just about everywhere for some NOS Pistons and failing, I went back to where I normally get engine parts (GBH Spares - Holsworthy) and in conversation he volunteered that when he sells County Pistons he swaps their rings for sets he has made because of known quality issues.
I may have just been unlucky and I'm sure there are plenty of engines out there happily running with County Pistons & rings, but my personal choice is to avoid them.
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On a slightly different note, if you have new pistons then they're probably made by County. This piston themselves are fine, but the rings not so in my experience.
I use a guy locally, I have bought 2 sets of pistons from him recently and he swapped out the rings for a NOS set of Hepolites on one and the other he supplied a set that he has manufactured.
Up to you of course....
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You'll be making it hard for yourself, just take them off and do them in a press or vice, it's the easiest way.
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Valvoline VR1 20w50 reportedly gives improved and more consistent oil pressure. I have used this oil, but don't have an oil pressure gauge to clarify.
There are some 20w60 oils out there....
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And some more...
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391480540031
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351687070099
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351756622928
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Engine sealing block
in Engine
Posted
Correct.