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Darren Groves

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Darren Groves

  1. Have just ordered 3 of the W724/1, under £5.00 each with free delivery, discount code at top of ECP website gave 35% off.

     

    I went for this one as I needed to keep the diameter about the same, anything much wider would foul the coilpack mounting. The length is fine for the Herald, actually will make it easier to remove and fit as it will clear the Alternator with enough showing to get something on it.

     

    The B&B filter I have is OK if used everyday, but leave it any longer and you get the death rattle for a few seconds, never had it with any other filter before.

     

    Thanks Clive, glad I asked the question before you'd sold all your stock!

     

    Darren

  2. One answer is ......use the car more frequently

    I use it pretty much everyday Pete, but this B&B Filter is the worst I've ever had. If the adaptor opens up the choice of filters then that can only be a good thing.

     

    Darren

  3. Thanks for that Clive, I guess the clues were there but didn't know what thread the standard adaptor was.

     

    Do you have any of the 3/4" adaptors left, I'll take one if you have, just let me know how you want me to get payment to you.

     

    Cheers

    Darren

  4. I know this raises it's head every now & then, but looking for a good oil filter. I currently have a Borg & Beck one fitted (can't remember where I bought it) but I think the anti-drain valve has failed or just isn't very good, so don't want another of those.

     

    Always used either Fram PH2869 or the WIX alternative before, the Fram one has been discontinued apparently so came across the K&N HP-2004 which it says only fits the 1500 engines, but aren't the oil filters the same for both engines?

     

    The K&N filter has a nut on the canister for easy removal.....

     

    https://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/product.aspx?prod=HP-2004

     

    Darren

  5. Could also be collapsed flexi-hose.

     

    I would change everything in pairs, so both hoses,cylinders, shoes etc. none of those items are that expensive and brakes are quite important  ;)

     

    Canley Classics & Paddocks are most peoples favourites, but do check prices at the TSSC Club Shop,normal quite competitive.

     

    Darren

  6. I would have thought a fibre or copper washer of the correct ID would work better, a rubber washer or O ring would compress and go out of shape too easily, plus the rubber may not be fuel resisitant.

     

    Canley's do a Fuel Pump Kit 506423 that seems to include a suitable washer.

     

    Darren

  7. Or just get a short length of 1/4" pipe, nut and olive and replace a short section out of the pump, trim the pipe with the poorly sealing flare and join the 2 with a short length of rubber house. You can probably buy everything you need for under a tenner.

     

    Darren

  8. Back in the days when my 13/60 had carbs  :rolleyes: my pump was a pipe & olive, this is how it's listed on Canley's.

     

    Mine always used to work lose and then weep, I was forever tightening it. PTFE tape around the threads stopped mine from coming lose, but maybe Loctite 542 would work better. Have just used this on different fuel related connection and seems to have worked well.

     

    post-31-0-80236000-1499843637_thumb.jpg

     

    Darren

  9.  

    Colin it will arrive at some point and then you will wonder how you managed without it

     

     

     

    Maybe Colin will get decent broadband soon with the extra money heading for NI, meanwhile in the rural South West we'll be waiting a fair while yet I fear.

     

    post-31-0-46846100-1498633171_thumb.jpg

     

    That 'some point' is a long way off for big chunks of the country, so the paper Magazine is here to stay for some time I'd say.

     

    Darren

  10. The Accuspark and similar products in my experience are pretty dire, they're cheap for a reason. Most electronic ignition modules should work fine with a ballasted system if the power supply to the module is taken from a 12v feed that is live during cranking (so nothing connected to the accessory feed on the switch) and not the positive on the coil as this drops to 6v after starting. Most people pick up the live on the coil for convenience, but obviously not a good idea on a ballasted set-up.

     

    Darren

    • Like 1
  11. Hi Steve,

     

    This may be of interest to you. I have just collected a 1979 Dolomite from Plymstock supplied by Warren's, the garage is still there (we passed it on the way home), they are a used car dealer now.

     

    Darren

     

    post-31-0-29391100-1498546705_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1
  12. I agree with Richard, turning the lock ring it's normally pretty solid and can't be turned through the locked position as you can, doesn't sound right. Do you definitely have the rubber seal fitted?

     

    I wouldn't have thought hylomar is fuel proof (though I might be wrong), Wellseal is and would work better.

     

    Darren

  13. Not personally, but have seen various posts on FB & other forums with people having issues with them, all need tweaking in different ways to fit.

     

    I have fitted several of the Bell ones sold by the Club Shop, they have always fitted OK.

     

    Darren

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