Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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Thanks Pete.
The CO was reading 1.71% and the MoT tester said that was about right, but seemed too low to me. I always used to aim around the 3% for my Herald.
I only got him to measure it to give me an idea of where the carbs were at, it wasn't done as part of the MoT just while it was there. Will richen it up a bit to see if it runs any better.
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What would be the target CO reading when adjusting the carbs on a MK1 2L Vitesse
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Autosparks are excellent, they probably supply Rimmers anyway hence the price difference.
I've had several harnesses from them over the years, all excellent quality.
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Nice job Moe, looks the business.
I got the rev counter back from Speedy Cables yesterday, all works fine now but still needed a pull up resistor between the signal and 12v supply.
Just waiting on the fabrication of the manifold flanges before I can get cracking with the next stage.
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Sorted, missed the inner lug. So piston lifting as it should now.
I'll order my T-Shirt.....
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I don't recall any lugs on the inner part of the diaphragm, so it's likely I fitted with the orientation wrong on the piston. I hope I have anyway, as that would be a simple fix.
Glad the car is now sorted. I'm still waiting on the recovery of the excess.
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With top cover off look down the sides of the dashpot , the bottom of the piston has two holes in it either side and behind the needle these should be towards the engine side not facing anywhere else
its controlled by the diaphragm lugs and the location in the piston and the main body
Pete
Ahh....so the diaphragm could have been fitted 180 degrees out I guess?!
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I had a similar problem and found that at wider throttle settings - anything above idle - the throttle bar clamp nut was slightly loose and not turning the throttle butterfly.
Thanks for the suggestion. Butterfly opening OK.....
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Air filter gasket covering the atmosheric port
Air leak in the top cover
diaphragm mis located lugs and thebtwo holes in the bottom are not engine facing
diapragm made from something too thick ,
They should be thin and very pliable
pete
No air filters fitted, so not that.
Top cover seems a snug fit, so thinking that's probably OK, but will re-check tomorrow.
Diaphragm lug located OK in carb body and are nice and thin, I have the old ones so can swap back to see it if makes a difference.
"two holes in the bottom are not engine facing" - which 2 holes are you referring to Pete?
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MK1 2L Vitesse with Twin CD150 Carbs.
The carbs have been stripped, cleaned and had new O Rings & Diaphragms fitted. Pistons on both carbs lift and fall freely. On idle the car is nice and smooth but when you increase the revs the piston on the front carb lifts as you'd expect but the one on the rear doesn't lift at all.
What's the most likely cause?
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Try rotating Propshaft and drive shaft flanges 180 degrees one by one and take for a test drive.
No logical reason why this should work, but has done a couple of times for me.
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H&H Supplied the part, £23ish delivered.
Cheers
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I've just navigated from a Bing Search to T D Fitchett's link on cylinder head gaskets and got a pop up warning that "the last web page you visited has infected your Mac with a virus. Click on the link to begin the cleaning process."
I didn't and was able to just close the page, with the proper Fitchett's page in behind. Has anyone else had this? Is it worth notifying them that they may be virused or hi-jacked or whatever the term is?
Their website is run by TSSC, so best let Garth know, but may just be local to you as I've just been on their and not had an issue.
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Hi Roger,
The Rev counter will with them today, should have it back by the middle of next week. All to do with the number of pulses per rotation, so they can adjust easily apparently.
Got a little more done yesterday, located the fuel filter & pump on the rear outrigger and run a new 8mm fuel line down to the front of the car.
Apologies for the poor quality photos, my phone was struggling in the light.
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At last week's Club Night I got the first bits back for the inlet manifold from fellow member Alan Brace, who is kindly helping out.
This bit is the flange that attaches to the throttle body and a slightly reduced tube diameter from the main plenum. I forgot to take a photo before I welded it, which is a shame as it was very nicely made and I was worried my welding wouldn't do it justice. Didn't come out too bad.
The Rev counter came back from Speedy Cables, it works but at exactly half speed. Simple fix apparently but does mean it has to go back. On the plus side the recalibrated speedo was spot on, matched the Sat Nav exactly.
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Hi Roger,
Well, the 5v for MS I got from Nick Jones's schematic for his tacho fix:
And the 12v for MJ I got from the Autosportslab Installation Guide which reads:
Using the Tach Out on the MJLJMany tachometers can accept the signal emitted from the Tach Out on the MJLJ module. This Tach Out signal provides a 12V pulse for every ignition event. You may use this to provide the signal to compatible tachometers, or to provide a signal to a separate Engine Control Unit, data logger, or other device which requires this signal.
I would just wait and see what you get, many people don't have problems even, you may me lucky.
Cheers
Darren
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Hi Roger,
I believe MJ is a 12v output, whereas the MS is 5v, so therein lies the problem. You may get lucky or the Tacho Driver from the coil pack may work, lots of people have success with this, it's just that I didn't. One downside to Speedy Cables is that it's a 4-5 week turnaround, so not so speedy....
Will be interested to see how you get on with your 02 sensor.
Cheers
Darren
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Hi Roger,
It was a RVC type. They charge £80 +VAT & P&P.
Darren
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Thanks for the replies.
I think the gear in the shaft is fine. If you removed the cable from the dizzy you can see the cable connection spinning quite happily and if you pop your finger tip on it, it continues to spin.
If you connect a cable to the dizzy the speedo end is spinning, but apply any sort of pressure to this and then it stops. I hoped this was the cable end rounded off, so tried a spare cable but with the same result, so concluded it was rounding of the female connection on the drive.
I could glue the cable into the dizzy drive I guess to see what happens, bit of a bodge but might see out a few miles.
I guess there's always H&G Ignition who do the refurbs for the club shop, they might be able to help.
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Hi Roger,
I've been following the U/J story, glad that is sorted.
Yes the Tacho worked fine with Megajolt, but no luck with the Microsquirt I'm afraid, I tried all the suggested fixes but nothing worked reliably. In theory the Tacho Driver I bought from Trigger Wheels should have worked, this is the same set-up that's mentioned in the Megamanual, this gave the best result, but still very patchy. In the end I bit the bullet and sent it to Speedy Cables who can convert to read the tacho out signal from the ECU, I had a speedo I've been wanting to send for calibration anyway, so seemed the simplest solution. Turnaround is 4-5 weeks though, so will not know for sure if it works for a bit.
You may be lucky with your tacho, sometimes they work, sometimes they don't even if the set-up is the same.
All the under dash wiring is done and excess run through the the engine bay and I have fitted the modified fuel tank, so can't do too much more until I get the flanges made for the inlet manifold, but a local TSSC member who is a retired engineer and has a lathe in his garage, has kindly offered to help.
Keep us posted with your install, we may both need a little moral support as we go through it!
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Car is a Vitesse 2L MK1 with a Lucas Distributor and Mechanical Rev Counter.
The rev counter doesn't work, the problem is with the gear in the dizzy. It turns, but if you hold the cable at the rev counter end and you apply some resistance it stops spinning. Tried a different cable, same thing.
So I am guessing the female part of the gear that the cable inserts into has rounded and wont turn the cable when there's any kind of resistance.
The gear looks simple to change, but doesn't seem to be available anywhere. Anyone know of a source?
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When I had the standard speedo in it did over-read by just over 5-10% which was fine, but this one is at least 20% so is a bit too far really.
Managed to find something that worked very well.
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Good idea Clive, was having a similar thought with one of these....
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I have a Spitfire 1500 speedo in my Herald, so it reads about 20% too high.
I am going to send it off for calibration, but I'm having difficulty getting a small pointer on the end of the cable to count the number revolutions for 6 rotations of the wheels. The cable has the plastic shroud/clip on the speedo end and the cable is quite deep set within it, hence the difficulty.
Anyone done this before with this type of cable and have suggestions on how to do this?
Darren
Triumph cars Glycol DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 Vs DOT 5 silicone brake fluid
in Braking System
Posted
Spot on....