Darren Groves
-
Posts
802 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
21
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Darren Groves
-
-
Here's a better angle.
-
This engine is all rebuilt now, start and runs...sounds nice.
Still have an issue with the pump. Just to recap it pumps fine manually when using either of the levers, but the lever isn't travelling enough on the cam lobe. The pin the lever pivots on was broken, so this was fixed, but still not enough travel. The pump just has a paper gasket, so it's not an incorrect spacer, so was thinking about building the lever up with 3-4mm weld which should be enough to operate the diaphragm and valves, any reason why I shouldn't do this?
As you can see from the photo it is making contact with the cam, but only enough to take up the slack in the lever.
-
The female bullet connectors/sleeves are all the same size, it's whether you want single, double etc. Male have different inner sizes to accommodate the different wire sizes, but externally they're the same.
http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/bullets-connector-sleeves.html
-
Try here: http://www.gbhspares.co.uk
-
The rings you get with the County pistons are hit or miss, the ones I fitted 3 years ago are failing already after less than 10k miles.
I've bought 2 piston sets recently, on one I got a set of Hepolite rings, the other a set the supplier had manufactured. I personally would avoid County rings
-
I think there are some pretty poor quality engine mounts out there, and it may be the case they all come from the same source so doesn't really matter where you buy them from.
NOS is the best if you can find them.
-
The white wheels were Spa white, unsure of the silver.
-
You don't mention the exhaust system being used..... If you are running a decent extractor exhaust & sports system then your 1296 will benefit from correctly setup HS4's.
If the head has had some decent work on it (not just CR) then that will help to.
........ Andy
I have a Bell extractor manifold and Vitesse semi-sport system.
-
More planning for my winter engine rebuild.....
As my current engine has a fast road cam and bucket lids for valves, after taking advice from the Rolling Road guy I ended up switching from HS2's to HS4's. Made a small difference, but mainly just cost me a few mpg.....
The new engine will be my old 1296cc block sleeved to be standard bore, Spit MK3 25/65 65/25 camshaft and a Spit MK4 head, so the larger inlet valves and with a CR of 9.0:1 or slightly higher if it needs a skim.
So my question is do I stick with the HS4's or go back to HS2's?
I sold my old HS2's, so the cheaper option would be to keep the HS4's, but not that that's a reason to keep them.
-
Just thought I'd follow up on this.
I couldn't track down a set of NOS pistons for my Herald, well not at a price that was reasonable, so have ended with a set of County ones. I bought them from a company called GBH Spares who by chance are about 6 miles from where live in sunny Devon. He's an old guy, a bit grumpy on the phone but a nice old boy face to face. The stock he has is quite incredible and what I saw was only the half of it, he supplies much of the trade with NOS & reproduced items.
I had a long chat with him why I didn't want to buy County pistons, I bought the last set from him 3-4 years ago and I have the symptoms of ring failure in under 10k miles, so didn't want that again. I also read on another forum of poor quality rings with these pistons and obviously it is true as when he sells them now he supplies them with sets of rings that he has made especially.
I think the only other brand of piston you can get for our cars now are made by an Australian company called JP, they are worse quality still, so if you embarking on an engine rebuild, just be aware of what you're buying. I called all the usual suppliers and they all sell County sets. I'm not saying all the rings in all County pistons are poor, but there must be enough dodgy ones out there for him to feel he has to get alternatives made.
-
1
-
-
Alexander conversion maybe?
-
Plenty of lubrication helps it slip in :-)
-
I know this topic comes up on a regular basis, but couldn't quite find the answer I was looking for.
I know 2.5 - 3psi is the ideal operating pressure for carbs, so do the Facet 1.5 - 4psi pumps overpower twin SU's and therefore need a regulator or are they OK without?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/272234064582 Or https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/181206455641
-
Well done Pete, right on the money.
Missing earth lead on the Coupling, with the key out it was engaging the steering lock which created an earth via the switch which has an earth. Put the key in, earth broken and nothing.
All works a treat now, thank you.
-
Thanks Richard, I did send these guys a message last night so hopefully they'll have something.
I need a set of Pistons but really don't want the the County ones that all the traders supply. My usual sources of NOS haven't got anything, but do have some 1500 Hepolite pistons, so hence the question.
-
-
if the column earth was missing could the key entry mate the inner with the outer via the lock plunger
or some wild idea to make a working earth when the correct route has failed , is there a wire across the uj
and a link from the rack greaser to the chassis ?
pete
Good point, will re-check the earth straps....
-
The car is actually a Park Royal Estate and it's had a few mods fitted in the past including this steering column.
I don't think you're supposed to be able to turn the switch anti-clock through the stop, it doesn't spring back just stays there. The switch front shows 4 positions 0, I, II & III, in that order, so not like the dash mounted switch where accessories is anti-clock from stop.
The feed to the starter solenoid is in the right place, it's on the only terminal that is live only when turned to position III, which does spring back to position II.
Just don't see how the switch can affect earth...
-
Hi John,
Not my car, one that I'm doing some work on. The wiring is a little butchered, but no relays on that circuit that I could see and it's the usual horn push on the wheel. There is no interruption on the live side of the circuit, good voltage in all key positions, definitely a break in the earth when the key's in.
-
Vitesse 6, with a ignition switch on the steering column.....
With the ignition key out the horn works fine, with the ignition key in and in any position the horn doesn't work. The ignition key once in the barrel is interrupting the earth through the column, there's no problem with the live supply, it's definitely the switch affecting the earth. If I attach an earth lead from the steering column clamp to ground, the horn works regardless of key position.
Another oddity with the switch is if you turn it anti-clockwise you can go past the stop position and it will crank the engine but not start, as the ignition isn't on.
You can buy the back of these switches pre-wired, so I guess that may stop the ability to go past the stop and crank the engine, but is that going to have any effect on the horn issue do you think?
-
I feel your pain, I did what you have done to my vitesse, and almost instantly regretted it.
I would go the tried and tested route of the spit 3 profile, yes it will sacrifice a little power, but will be more drivable and probably feel quicker on the road.
That is my 2p worth....
This engine has been hard work from day one, partly as the supplier gave me the wrong timing installation figure for the cam so it was 5º out for 18 months. I never actually intended to buy a fast road cam, I asked for what they recommended to help make the car more driveable, they claimed it would improve torque & power, but it just feels all in the wrong place for regular driving. I paid the price for just accepting their recommendation - lesson learned.
My gut feeling is the Spitfire cam, like you say Clive it's tried and tested and I feel it will be a better drive at the expense for a few bhp.
I am intrigued with the Kent High Torque Cam though, but very little about it anywhere on the web. Would be interested to know what driving characteristics that produces.
-
same thing happened to my 13/60 ,went through same checks and new parts plus new rad. eventually fond the voltage stabilizer was faulty giving a high reading.
i fitted a new electronic one off ebay and no more problem.
Would give a high reading on fuel gauge also if this is the problem.
-
Knowing that my engine will have to come out in the winter (I like to plan ahead), I have been thinking do I want to stick with the Newman PH2 Fast Road Camshaft that I've been using for the last 3 years and I'm at the conclusion that I don't. The loss of torque at lower revs, everything useful is 500-1000 revs too high in the rev range for the roads where I live and my driving style, so it's got to go.
So what to do? I could go back to a standard 13/60 camshaft, the cheapest option as I have 2 but that's just a bit too easy and safe.
I have read in a few places that the Spit MK3 is the best of the stock Triumph ones, timing and duration are: 25/65 65/25 & 270°
Or I could go for the Newman or Piper Cams 'Road' Options:
Newman PH1 - Timing: 20/60 60/20, Duration: 260°, Power Band: 1500-6000Piper Cams TRBP255 - Timing: 17/55 55/17, Duration: 252°, Power Band: 1500-5800Or there is a Kent 'High Torque' camshaft which I can find little information on:Kent Cams TH12 High Torque - Timing: 31/5 67/23 Duration: 270°, Power Band 1500-6500This time round I'm looking for a smoother idling cam, with more useful torque and power at more modest revs, so I need some help here with what to do, anyone got good or bad experiences of any of these cams or other suggestions? -
Thanks John, I know somewhere I can borrow a boroscope so will have a look.
I have a spare block that I will reassemble ready for a swap in the winter. It needs some machining, but will decide to what once I have found a set of Hepolite or equivalent pistons. All the regular traders sell County and I'm not going that route again.
Cheers
Best place to buy spares...?
in Engine
Posted
For engine parts, try here: http://www.gbhspares.co.uk/
He has huge stock of NOS parts.