Iain T

Roger, after two new lucas type alternators failed I fitted a Brise. Fit and forget! Like you I'm not electric savvy, what I did on my Vitesse was tuck away the Brown/Green cable (not necessary on the Brise) and connected the Brown/Yellow to I believe the L terminal (someone please say if its the S!) I then ran a new cable (that's the green on the photo) from the alternator IGN to a switched ignition white on my fuse box. Connect the large charge cable alternator to battery and hey ho it works! The ignition light functions and it charges! I'm not sure if the green cable is the correct size and my terminals are not insulated, apart from some tape, but it's been fine for the last two years and 1000 miles. I hope this helps one electrical novice to another. Iain

I think the CDS Stromberg is a superb carburetor especially as you can easily adjust the mixture! Iain

If I undo the top clamp I can slide the cowl forward but I might wait until I do the column UJ. I've ordered the Motolita plunger so I'll have a choice of two horn pushes, one on the steering wheel and one on the instrument panel.

We don't so much drift but steer full steam in another direction....it's one of the joys of this forum!

I've just duct taped mine down! I've taken it off so many times I got fed up finding all the fixings!

Oh dear I've got my worry beads out again...... Every time I crank the starter my classic car mate cringes. The noise isn't a non meshing mechanical sound but that of a electric motor nasty whine. As I have a 631 exhaust it's a bas***d to get at. Iain

Very true, around Keighley there were many good machine manufacturers that for various reasons just fell by the wayside. DSG were the 'Rolls Royce' of lathes.

Colin, did it stop working or just not as powerful? I have a WOSP fitted by the PO and it doesn't seem to turn over that well and makes a hell of a clatter. When I took the engine out the starter ring looked fine so it's engaging OK. Iain

Thanks. I have a crimper and after playing with installing headlamp relays a lot of experience crimping! No can't use the crimping tool as I don't fancy drilling the rivet out so it's back to using a screwdriver and solder. Iain

It is well made for the money and about 3mm shorter than my old boss. I now have too big a gap from the cowling to the boss!

Do you need a spacer with the club supplied hi-torque? Iain

Mountney boss arrived today I need to source a contact plunger. The diameter of the hole is 10mm. The Triumph pencil doesn't have a wire for the horn push so is there an aftermarket option? I can find one from Motolita but not sure if it will fit. I suppose I could make one but I like the 'easy fix' route. At £21.37 including delivery from Opie Oils the boss seems a bargain!

Wagger, they are American and still trading. In 2018 they transferred their turning and milling manufacturing from Taiwan back to the USA. Colchester, Harrison are now badge names in 600 Group range of machines. I remember going to Butlers in the 90's when looking to buy a 3m cnc mill. I then went to Mecof in Italy who were technically years ahead. A shame. I also bought a 5m mill....from Anayak based in North Spain. Sorry for thread drift..... Iain

A name from the past! An engineering company on the industrial estate I worked had one. Gone now the same as Asquith Butler etc etc No, just checked both are still going but only refurb and maintenance no new machines.

Mine didn't either. I replaced the worn track rod ends but either the rolled thread or the tapped in the ends had slightly different thread pitches. This meant as I tried to spin the ends on it got progressively tighter as the threads bound. I just about had enough muscle to get the geometry about right. Bloody aftermarket products!

My doctor said that!

Mine were greased it made a huge diffence using oil. I bought two Wanner guns off Fleabay. One for oil and the other grease. I used the oil gun and just pumped until oil seeped out. I know its better to strip and clean but it's too cold out now! I meant the trunnions not me...

Hi Aviv, I too have pondered hose or kunifer. I like the idea of hose as it reduces the number of connections but kunifer is fit and forget. As Clive said Carbuilder Solutions sell 1/4 and 5/16 braided E10 proof hose. My Huco pump has 5/16 (8mm) outlet but the carb pipe inlet (on mine) is 1/4. If I fit hose I'll braze a 5/16 copper piece on. Iain

So steering straight and fit the UJ joint horizontal and vertical?

I may be wrong but I wouldn't get overfussed about getting the rack millimetre perfect. I obviously don't have the same steering wheel rotation left and right but 'tis life it ain't always possible. As I said I couldn't believe the reduction in steering wheel load after I oiled the trunnions.

I trial fitted mine saw the problem and took it off warmed the offending tube and used a large diameter bar and a hammer make a scallop for clearance. It fitted but no clearance to the steering shaft so I moved the rack. Yes it is a juggling act making sure the uj rotates around the turret!

I oiled my trunnions and the steering is noticeably lighter and smoother. Could lack of lub be causing the tightness? I have to rotate my steering shaft as playing around with the horn I noticed the cancelling bump is at 12 o/clock. I've been wanting to install a UJ (from Chris Witor?) so I'll do both at the same time. Simplish to do with the side valance removed. Wagger you got there first!

I had to move my rack over a few millimetres as the steering shaft hit my 631 manifold. I had no option. Iain

I found that out last week! Checked all the wiring before then realised I may have moved the column... Iain

MB029 should be the boss for a Vitesse, the technical guy won't be back at work until Tuesday when he will email the drawing and I need to ask how the horn operates. The polished Ali centre looks smart.