Iain T

A name from the past! An engineering company on the industrial estate I worked had one. Gone now the same as Asquith Butler etc etc No, just checked both are still going but only refurb and maintenance no new machines.

Mine didn't either. I replaced the worn track rod ends but either the rolled thread or the tapped in the ends had slightly different thread pitches. This meant as I tried to spin the ends on it got progressively tighter as the threads bound. I just about had enough muscle to get the geometry about right. Bloody aftermarket products!

My doctor said that!

Mine were greased it made a huge diffence using oil. I bought two Wanner guns off Fleabay. One for oil and the other grease. I used the oil gun and just pumped until oil seeped out. I know its better to strip and clean but it's too cold out now! I meant the trunnions not me...

Hi Aviv, I too have pondered hose or kunifer. I like the idea of hose as it reduces the number of connections but kunifer is fit and forget. As Clive said Carbuilder Solutions sell 1/4 and 5/16 braided E10 proof hose. My Huco pump has 5/16 (8mm) outlet but the carb pipe inlet (on mine) is 1/4. If I fit hose I'll braze a 5/16 copper piece on. Iain

So steering straight and fit the UJ joint horizontal and vertical?

I may be wrong but I wouldn't get overfussed about getting the rack millimetre perfect. I obviously don't have the same steering wheel rotation left and right but 'tis life it ain't always possible. As I said I couldn't believe the reduction in steering wheel load after I oiled the trunnions.

I trial fitted mine saw the problem and took it off warmed the offending tube and used a large diameter bar and a hammer make a scallop for clearance. It fitted but no clearance to the steering shaft so I moved the rack. Yes it is a juggling act making sure the uj rotates around the turret!

I oiled my trunnions and the steering is noticeably lighter and smoother. Could lack of lub be causing the tightness? I have to rotate my steering shaft as playing around with the horn I noticed the cancelling bump is at 12 o/clock. I've been wanting to install a UJ (from Chris Witor?) so I'll do both at the same time. Simplish to do with the side valance removed. Wagger you got there first!

I had to move my rack over a few millimetres as the steering shaft hit my 631 manifold. I had no option. Iain

I found that out last week! Checked all the wiring before then realised I may have moved the column... Iain

MB029 should be the boss for a Vitesse, the technical guy won't be back at work until Tuesday when he will email the drawing and I need to ask how the horn operates. The polished Ali centre looks smart.

Very smart! I will phone the shop tomorrow as the shop website doesn't show boss images

Thanks Ian, it seems both Astrali and Motolita now only make 9 hole wheels and bosses. If all fails I like Clive's glue and jubby clip idea! I have to say in the summer when the cabin gets over 30C and I get a bit sweaty the nice polished wood steering wheel does get a bit slippery! Your leather rim is much more functional. Iain

Last year I did email sucarbs but he must have been away and by the time he responded I'd sent my CDS150s to Carburetor Exchange. They did a great job and fit spindle seals as standard. Cost was about £225 for the pair. If you want to play fit an air flow (worry) meter. You'll need to cut a hole in the exhaust and fit the boss for the sensor. However if you want a good rolling road try BD Engineering at Sittingbourne Kent. He holds lots of SU needles and is very good. Iain

My horn push says Triumph Sports Six Club so I'm keeping that!

Thanks Ian that would be very helpful. I phoned Astrali and they said they only make 9 hole, I said I have a 6 hole boss with Astrali name, patent stamped in it and he couldn't comment! Clive, I might join your club! I'm waiting for Mountney to email a drawing of their Vitesse boss which shows a 6 hole and if it has the pencil hole it could be a correct solution. Iain

As I said it is an Astrali but from what era I have no idea.

Thanks I'll phone the club Monday.

Photos of my 14 inch dished wheel, looks OK but the horn isn't and was never connected! It's a 6 hole fitting and the current boss says Astrali but they are all 9 hole?!? So to make it all work (the PO had a instrument panel horn push for the navigator) I need to find a boss or try and fit the Motolita(?) plunger on the side of my existing boss. If I earth the brass ring to the steering column the horn works so it's just the boss/plunger, or some other widget, required to fix it. Any suggestions? Iain

Paul, where did you get your led strip? Been on Classic LED website for stop/tail and front sides, for the minimal cost and increased safety a no brainer! Iain

Chris, what did you change? Can you get led with the correct fittings and do you need any other widgets. I'm also thinking of installing a rear window mounted stop/turn led strip, can you get them with "Stop you B*ast**d" letters? Iain

I turn my stop start off as soon as I'm on the move. The auto stop/start annoys me at traffic lights and in heavier traffic where you stop for a few seconds then go forward a few metres then stop it all seems a lot of cranking and car jiggling for nothing. However it must tick some boxes for some unnamed government officials.

But still better than a map on your lap while driving! Anyway my headlights are definitely brighter, even with the sealed beam lamps. Now I've got up close and personal I seem to have at least three different makes of lamps and lens designs. I suppose the PO's replaced with whatever was to hand. The nearside dip/main is a proper Lucas unit. Iain

My problem with my Xenon lights is lack of detail ie where's the side of the countryside road! They seem far worse than my previous car. Things don't necessarily get better they just get value engineered. Iain