Iain T

Are the idiots out!?! Do these people ever learn? The reason for the last shortage was panic buying. Grrrrrr Iain I'll buy some anti squeel shims on my next round of bits.

Ta, so if I take the door card off the quarter light can be shimmed to cant it inboard? At the moment it's laying out too much at the top. Can I also do the same with the drop glass frame? I've seen posts that have used a secondary seal attached to the A pillar but the ebay link is too old. The door skin lines up pretty well so I'm lothe to adjust the hinges. Iain

The main problem is the seals everything else seems OK. What's a NDV?

Paul, so have mine! I noticed when I fitted the Mintex 1144 pads there wasn't an anti squeak pad. Is this required? Did the Cera Tex work? As to remembering if you've fitted or lost parts I sympathise. I had to make a note last night to remember to check the alternator cable nut before going for a drive today. When I move the car it nearly always seems to have 'laid' some bits that I lost. Yes it's age! Iain

Pete, I'm having a blonde moment NDV? The chassis and body were fully restored 10 years ago and everything looks good. Iain

Another on the tick list is the finger sized gaps between the door aperture and drop glass, quarter light and probably door. As I can see from previous posts this is not uncommon and does make for a noisy and occasionally wet drive. I don't think the seals as fitted are correct and am wondering if there are seal(s) that are available and work! Reminds me of when I was doing a job for Bentley Crewe and they gave us a pink Corniche, with cream hood, to ponce about in for a week. Driving back down the M6 I could see the road white lines as the door rear to B pillar gap was finger sized! A few tissues stuffed in the gap sorted the wind noise! I'd like something more engineered for the Vitesse..... Iain

They are, most are socket head but are also available in other options. Buy from a reputable supplier to ensure grade and quality.

WDS and others supply imperial shoulder bolts. I used to used WDS for jig and fixture fittings.

I read Deliveroo cancelled all deliveries in London yesterday. Half the population must have starved!

The PO converted to an alternator so I only have a (actually two) fuse boxes no control box. It made my life easier! As I said beware of Lucas alternators. The WOSP alternator fitted by the PO failed. My first Lucas type again just stopped charging, the the second had such a vibration it shook the engine, exhaust, chassis and me! All in the bin but the Brise has been faultless. I just know I shouldn't have said that! Others, I notice Clive has posted, can advise on dumping the control box. Good luck, it must be a bit nippy in Aland? Iain

Roger, after two new lucas type alternators failed I fitted a Brise. Fit and forget! Like you I'm not electric savvy, what I did on my Vitesse was tuck away the Brown/Green cable (not necessary on the Brise) and connected the Brown/Yellow to I believe the L terminal (someone please say if its the S!) I then ran a new cable (that's the green on the photo) from the alternator IGN to a switched ignition white on my fuse box. Connect the large charge cable alternator to battery and hey ho it works! The ignition light functions and it charges! I'm not sure if the green cable is the correct size and my terminals are not insulated, apart from some tape, but it's been fine for the last two years and 1000 miles. I hope this helps one electrical novice to another. Iain

I think the CDS Stromberg is a superb carburetor especially as you can easily adjust the mixture! Iain

If I undo the top clamp I can slide the cowl forward but I might wait until I do the column UJ. I've ordered the Motolita plunger so I'll have a choice of two horn pushes, one on the steering wheel and one on the instrument panel.

We don't so much drift but steer full steam in another direction....it's one of the joys of this forum!

I've just duct taped mine down! I've taken it off so many times I got fed up finding all the fixings!

Oh dear I've got my worry beads out again...... Every time I crank the starter my classic car mate cringes. The noise isn't a non meshing mechanical sound but that of a electric motor nasty whine. As I have a 631 exhaust it's a bas***d to get at. Iain

Very true, around Keighley there were many good machine manufacturers that for various reasons just fell by the wayside. DSG were the 'Rolls Royce' of lathes.

Colin, did it stop working or just not as powerful? I have a WOSP fitted by the PO and it doesn't seem to turn over that well and makes a hell of a clatter. When I took the engine out the starter ring looked fine so it's engaging OK. Iain

Thanks. I have a crimper and after playing with installing headlamp relays a lot of experience crimping! No can't use the crimping tool as I don't fancy drilling the rivet out so it's back to using a screwdriver and solder. Iain

It is well made for the money and about 3mm shorter than my old boss. I now have too big a gap from the cowling to the boss!

Do you need a spacer with the club supplied hi-torque? Iain

Mountney boss arrived today I need to source a contact plunger. The diameter of the hole is 10mm. The Triumph pencil doesn't have a wire for the horn push so is there an aftermarket option? I can find one from Motolita but not sure if it will fit. I suppose I could make one but I like the 'easy fix' route. At £21.37 including delivery from Opie Oils the boss seems a bargain!

Wagger, they are American and still trading. In 2018 they transferred their turning and milling manufacturing from Taiwan back to the USA. Colchester, Harrison are now badge names in 600 Group range of machines. I remember going to Butlers in the 90's when looking to buy a 3m cnc mill. I then went to Mecof in Italy who were technically years ahead. A shame. I also bought a 5m mill....from Anayak based in North Spain. Sorry for thread drift..... Iain

A name from the past! An engineering company on the industrial estate I worked had one. Gone now the same as Asquith Butler etc etc No, just checked both are still going but only refurb and maintenance no new machines.

Mine didn't either. I replaced the worn track rod ends but either the rolled thread or the tapped in the ends had slightly different thread pitches. This meant as I tried to spin the ends on it got progressively tighter as the threads bound. I just about had enough muscle to get the geometry about right. Bloody aftermarket products!