Iain T

Possibly not down. When the piston is down is there a gap at the bottom between it and the bridge of the carb body?

One down, now try the piston lift check.

From your photo just pull the diaphragm/air piston assembly up from the carb body. At the bottom of the piston are two holes which must face toward the engine/manifold PS I've PM you with my mobile number.

After checking the air piston orientation screw the top back on then with the air filter off (and the damper plunger out) stick your finger in the carb and raise the air piston to the top then let it drop. Does it drop all the way with a mechanical clunk at the bottom. If it doesn't the jet needs centering to the needle. Note: when screwing the carb top on take great care to evenly turn each screw and check alignment by raising the air piston and letting it drop with a clunk. Iain

As Pete said what about the air piston are the holes at the bottom pointing toward the engine?

Can you post a picture of your carb/throttle arrangement. If there was a butterfly screw missing it would have high idle all the time, see Jeffds1360 post. It sounds as though something is moving after running the car then possibly settling down and returning when not in use. Odd, wierd but it must be something simple. Iain

Look forward to seeing there, I've booked a 9.30 arrival slot. Iain

I've booked 19th June at Peter Best event Braxted and 26th at The Lawn Rochford. The first is free the second only £4. Be nice to see any club members. I haven't been to the Braxted show before but The Lawn had a live band and lots of things for the family. All very weather dependant! Iain

Clive, good point I could use a T piece to connect the rocker and 'pump' breather hoses into the catch can then out to the pcv. Easy to try, I'll need to make the outlet and reposition the Huco. Iain

Now I'm jealous! You must tell us how they perform. As to manifold I assume the straight as possible. What do you have fitted on your car?

It is higher but only by a few inches. I could use the old petrol pump hole but then with only a two port can the rocker vent/pcv hoses would have to stay as original. Is there any advantage in doing so?

Yes although it does depend on the choke cam profile and how far in or out the cam screw is with the CDS carb.

If you're going to buy triple Webers why not go the next step with Jenvey Heritage (Weber lookalike) throttle bodies. Yes overall more expensive with ecu etc but if you're inclined to put your hand deep in your pocket then in my opinion that's the way to would go and keep a classic look.

I made cardboard sections and interlocked them to make a dummy fan. Have fun!

Sounds like the speedo needs a service? My original temperature gauge read high but when checked with a temp gun it was fine.

Not on a Vitesse, I had to get EP Services to mod my water pump to fit it! However some have fitted without this mod?!?! Dunno why I have less room. I used the Spall fan bracket 69A-075-AA0 with home made brackets to fit.

It's a Spal VA10-AP50/C-61A 12" pull fan from T7 Designs. Very good and pulls the temperature down 10C in no time, at all.

I have a catch can mounted next to the clutch master cylinder and plumbed from the rocker into the pvc. I took the can off for the first time yesterday and it had about 10mm of oily water in it and some white gloop in the bottom. I mounted the can as high as I could but with only short journeys it's probably not getting hot enough.

I like the control given with an electric fan. Sitting in a traffic jam in hot weather with only a crank driven fan and the temperature rising makes for an unhappy driver. As a boy I remember seeing many cars boiled up in summer, ok mainly due to poor maintenance but the piddly fans didn't help.

Could you not use both rocker cover and ex mechanical pump hole with a three port catch tank? Iain

Or have a chat with T7 Designs. I've bought my fan, controller etc from them. Very helpful. Iain

Airlocks can cause wild temperature gauge readings. I don't know if the 13/60 sufferers the same problem as the 6 pots. I refill my rad from empty with the front end on ramps to try and stop airlocks.

As Doug said your ears can tell if it's actually ticking over at high revs (must be no choke). If it sounds high can you lower the idle with the throttle stop screw?

Mmmm, as I said check oil/water. From what you say about the engine struggling I may be serious. The higher rev counter reading may be wrong? Does it sound as though its revving higher than yesterday? The varying reading could suggest the counter is having a mental breakdown! They don't call them worry gauges for nothing!

I'm a bit confused, does the engine run OK when driven normally? Check, oil, water for levels discolouration. Does the temp gauge rise to halfway straight after starting from cold?