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Iain T

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Everything posted by Iain T

  1. I've spent ages putting grommets in the bulkhead and sealing up the tunnel but my wife still says I smell of old car exhaust fumes after I've gone for a drive. So.....if the bonnet seal isn't quite sealing can fumes wind there way into the interior via the vents?
  2. Most Italian twin cams are very good, I had a 1300cc 1958 Alpha which was a joyous rev machine! Light years ahead of the dare I say Triumph.....
  3. I think FIAT sold the manufacturing rights and tooling to a Russian company. Lada's were made in Russia, probably from melted down T34 tank steel😂! I don't think we're helping Ian with his dilemma........
  4. Common sense rules that may stop some of the underlying issues with recent posts. Iain
  5. That's a FIAT with Russian steel!
  6. How this? It's the same one! 1971 Fiat 124S Sedan For Sale
  7. A RHD saloon for sale in good condition for £10k. I tried to copy the link but failed again! Iain
  8. James Hunt loved his A35, not the quickest of cars but still fun.
  9. If you're going to gift the car to your navigator then keep the 1500 engine, especially as you wouldn't leave the Fiat engine in. Just do the head mods, cam, oil cooler and get it rolling road tuned. Keeps it simple and easy. Not as quick as the twin cam but much less complicated. I used to race a Jag Mk2, never won a race but as Mathew says I still had loads of fun and anguish, fear and empty pockets! Iain
  10. Dave, Replaced mine with some hose in the kit when I fitted a Mishimoto oil catch can. The old ones were very flexible and soft. Iain
  11. On Pete's recommendation I've just used Carburettor Exchange at Leighton Buzzard. Good work at reasonable prices, but don't expect them back in a week! They install spindle bushes/seal as standard, they said it's easier than people complaining! The difference in being able to tune is chalk and cheese. Iain
  12. Mine was registered 13th November 1968 so one of the first Mk2's? Or given the usual crossover of parts a Mk1 1/2! Iain
  13. Iain T

    Engine mounts

    When my engine was rebuilt I changed the mounts as although on 5 years had l done less than 5k miles and were splitting. The new ones were from Rimmers or Paddocks but this seems to be a recurring problem. Please keep us informed. Iain
  14. Totally agree, you need the correct tools and machinery to do it correctly. I didn't want to take the chance. Iain
  15. I had mine done at Carburetor Exchange as part of a refurb. There is a guy in Chelmsford Essex that will ream and fit bushes, I think he quoted me £70-80. I deleted his email only yesterday! Iain
  16. Your car also had Triumph on the bonnet and not the Vitesse badge. I assume it's a mk1, hence the grille, mine is a G reg '68 mk2. I like the colour! Iain
  17. I have the Mk1 grille as fitted by the PO and the rear bumper is also body colour. I'm keeping both as I like the look. Iain
  18. Cheers, so to return to standard I'll need to ditch the rear spotlamp and fit the fluted panel (I like those), the Triumph badge and boot light cluster (no idea if they are available). I've already discarded the twin extra front spotlamps as all they did was block the radiator aperture! Methinks the PO tried too hard... Iain
  19. Thanks Gary my bonnet is correct but I believe the saloon boot badges are different to the convertible and no ali cover? Iain
  20. I'm trying to ascertain the correct bonnet and boot badges for a saloon. My bonnet has a Vitesse badge by nothing on the boot as the PO fitted a rear spotlamp on the rhs. On the side of the wings are union Jack's which I quite like and wouldn't replace. Iain
  21. Thanks will do, a job for the boring winter months! Iain
  22. Paul, was it the two part JB Weld? Iain
  23. If you want to go high tech you can also get reusable heat absorbant putty. Loads on any Google search. 30+ years ago I had a demo using putty developed by NASA for the space shuttle. The rep put a line of putty on a piece of sheet steel heated one side cherry red then picked it up with his fingers from the other side! Iain
  24. Others have suggested this, so going to Colin's photos on page 1 of this topic just run some solder around the joint shown on the first photo? Iain
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