Iain T

Only on start up? Changes in ambient temp, humidity is why our cars run so differently even when warmed up. Iain

Cold air is more dense so in theory requires more fuel to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. Modern cars do this by an array of sensors, fuel injection and magic. We, again in theory, have to tweek the carbs but in practice no one does. Iain

I get 25psi when hot. Even though the low oil pressure light stayed off low oil pressure was the cause of my crank requiring a regrind. My Vitesse engine with full gas flowed etc etc head and bottom end rebuild cost just over £3k without new pistons and just a rehone but included a billet cam and a huge headache sorting out the carb needles, springs! Iain

I went there once as we were given a very active demonstration of their Land Rover prior to being asked to quote for an updated version. A very odd place and wouldn't have asked about their preference of which denier they use! Iain

Yes there is a flow to the heater even if the thermostat isn't open. I rely on double set of pants and then natural Triumph engine bay heating 🥵 Iain

What temperature thermostat is fitted? Low temperature summer thermostats are no good for cold winters. At mid 70s most thermostats are still closed so there will be no flow through the radiator. Iain

I took my Vitesse out last week and on the move the water temp read mid to high 70C. Warmed up in traffic but then I don't have a crank driven fan only an electric. It seems if your engine and cooling system are in good condition getting temperatures up to optimum in cold weather is an issue but I wouldn't get too worried about it. If we used our cars every day in very cold weather then perhaps. Iain

Do you know what your advance is now? Thread drift....everytime I see your profile name I pronounce it knicker guy a play Pink Floyd's Arnold Layne in my head! Yes my wife thinks I'm odd🤪. YouTube the song, a classic! Iain

Like some I haven't mot'd mine since lockdown. Just had my modern car mot and reminded me I must book the Vitesse. If it's the same guy his dad has a 2000 saloon so knows about classics. Iain

I have lots of Teflon tape but prefer to use the thread sealant. The Gold plug is the correct thread. A taper thread with a washer seems odd?

My sump plug was parallel thread and it leaked. I changed to a Gold magnetic taper plug and it also leaks! In fact worse than the parallel. When I next change the oil I'll inspect the sump thread. Is there a thread sealant that works for sumps? Permatex high temp thread sealant 59214 seems as though it would work. Iain

Don't worry about breaking the vertical welds the bracket will bend before the welds fail. With the wishbone off you should be able to get a bar in to hit wiv n 'ammer or prize over. I would be more worried about rewelding anything to the chassis unless all surfaces are ground back to clean metal. As to the over bracket say in 3mm steel I'm not sure the eye of the wishbone would clear the original fixing hole unless the new hole is possibly more than 25mm lower. I'll take a look when it gets a bit warmer! Iain

The two top holes are probably tooling holes to locate the blank when the sides are 'raised' to form the U shape. The original Triumph brackets have the holes and the part formed using press tools however for the Canley brackets the manufacturing process will be different and they could possibly be deleted. Would it be possible to make an extended cover bracket bolted to the original via the top hole(s) and the wishbone holes (with a spacer tube) and had say 25mm lower holes for the new fixing? Spacer washers the same thickness as the original bracket would be needed to maintain the correct internal width. Iain

I only use my phone for this forum!

I call that wife mode. It's that background noise that is sometimes annoying but ignore at your peril! I'm sure my wife can hear me typing this.......... Iain

Tesco Momentum 99 octane for most of my refills.

That's my thinking hence when I previously had my advance at over 20 degrees the engine pinked but nicrguy1966 doesn't. Iain

Anyone's starter for 10. I have a higher compression ratio of about 10.5:1 therefor the fuel/air mixture is compressed more than in a standard 9:1(?) head. Basic physics tells us when a gas is compressed it generates heat. Given the above posts regarding speed of flame would my head with the aid of compressed molecules and generated heat require less ignition advance than a standard 9:1 head? Iain

But you got oily, dirty and increased your knowledge base. These are all good things that make me happy😁

To continue this topic I have advanced my timing from around 11 degrees to 17. I had to adjust the tickover as it was a little high at this setting. Took the car out for an hours drive of slow, medium and er sorry 'orficer fast driving with no pinking under load. Tickover is more stable and revs and pulls very nicely. On listening to the engine my high and low advance range is around 8 to 24 degrees so I set about the middle. I'm leaving the advance there and will give it a longer term test as it seems a pretty safe setting. Iain

Using a piston stop takes away any dwell issues, is simple and works. It's much easier and in my opinion more accurate to use than measuring the valves. Then you can progress to cam timing. Iain

Do you have to be careful not to restrict the oil gallery with an overlong threaded plug? Iain

I can only say what I'm going to do which is the old school increase advance until it pinks then back off 1-2 degrees. After much reading about how slow modern ethanol added fuel burns I believe the Triumph wsm advance setting needs tweeking. I only retarded my ignition to 8 degrees as I thought 13 degrees was causing pinking but it turned out to be the rad cap hitting the bonnet or as just found a Mikalor hose clamp hitting the alternator. Which ever one it sounded exactly like pinking! Last year I did run at around 20 degrees and the engine was much more responsive but bottled out as I hadn't done the research. Thanks for opening this subject for scrutiny. I'm looking forward to regaining those lost horses after spending many many hours sorting out the carb fuel/air mixture needles, damper springs and oil. Iain

That's OK. Did you get on with your neighbours.....? It's going to be noisy

Dig out those driving gloves with the knuckle holes😄, turn yer flat cap round and hang on! Iain