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Iain T

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by Iain T

  1. Bl**dy autofil, where are my Tena pants...?
  2. Is Stromberg site beefnmustard? These site do help the hopelessly obsessive tiddlers (me!) but there's no substitute for years of experience. Iain
  3. Somewhere in technical on the Burlen website there is a spreadsheet they use to compare SU needles. If you can't find it Burlen will help. Iain
  4. Surely it must be connected to the rear carb or petrol would p*ss out when the choke was activated? The unthreaded spindle with brass connecting bar and curly links as Paul's is simple. You could use one of the old spindles as the connecting bar and just need to buy (if you don't have any) two curly links. Iain
  5. If it works I can't comment! Playing around with your engine can cause some head scratching......see above posts! Iain
  6. Yes as far as I know the jets are all 90 thou. Iain
  7. So do but I keep forgetting to replace with rubber hose, where is my To Do list? Iain
  8. Pete, isn't the 7B needle a bit to tapered hence rich for a standard 1600? The 7Bs were too rich on my ported 2 litre. Iain
  9. I have the CDS carbs (with the choke enrichment disc on the ftont carb and a joining hose to the rear) and it seems much simpler to adjust the jet at the bottom than mucking around with the needle in the CDSE. Also you can adjust the mixture while the engine is running. Iain
  10. It was the probe that came with the DC controller, the problem was it seemed to be very inaccurate in sensing the temperature so it became a 'worry'. Couldn't be bothered to pfaff about so bought the DC in line and sensor. The old rad probe on my DC controller just unplugged and the new sensor plugged straight in. It seems as though it was designed for the probes to be changed and/or replaced if faulty. We'll done Aussie designers! Another upside with the DC in line joiner is it now has two NPT holes, one for the probe and the other can be plugged (comes in kit) or you can buy an air vent to get rid of pesky air locks. Unfortunately T7 don't at the moment sell the vents but I've advised them and they are looking to get them from DC. Iain
  11. Ian, I had problems with the 'poke in the rad fin' temperature sensor so I fitted the in line hose sensor and it cured the wayward temp control. Iain
  12. +1 for Davies Craig controller and in line temperature sensor. Works fine on my Vitesse with a Spal fan. FYI this controller is capable of controlling two fans and a 'worry' switch. Iain
  13. Adrian Golden rule.....only do one carb at a time so you have a reference should it all go t*ts up! Iain
  14. Same here only get an email for personal messages. My email box has enough daily emails I don't want anymore! Iain
  15. Tony The Redline is I think the same, recommended in the Forum. When I checked the diff there was hardly any oil in it so I filled up with Redline. Perhaps I now know why it was empty! Iain Doesn't make a noise or clonk so I'm hoping just a seal.
  16. A few months ago I filled my diff with Redline and noticed this week it's dribbled some red oil on the ground. Not looking forward to getting underneath to inspect☹️. Will the jobs never end! Iain
  17. Pete, you beat me I'm still having issues with the website. Adrian, yes it's because I and others more proficient than me have fiddled with the engine. Keep it standard and the carbs should remain as factory spec. Any head and cam modifications can make big differences to the air/fuel intake. Iain
  18. Get a Huco low pressure electric pump! Primes the carbs nicely. Iain
  19. I thought I'd been naughty and Kevin was chastising me! The tinternet round here doesn't like hot weather and all those WFH are clogging up the lines watching footy! Sorry Kevin...... Iain
  20. I love a bit of lub.......
  21. Several times over the past few days ive been unable to post on both android and Mac. When I press to 'submit reply' I says 'saving' and doesn't move on so I have to cancel and try again. Hope this glitch disappears, I don't have any problems with othe Internet searches etc. Iain I'm pressing Submit Reply now......it worked!
  22. Fitted the new m/c, lots of black gunge in the bottom of the old one. Operates OK when driving up and down the car park but can't go for a blast 'cos the Siemens man hasn't arrived to fix the dishwasher! First impression is it feels the same but at least it's one off the worry list. Iain
  23. This is the Newman cam spec, I'm just as you say going to enjoy driving it!
  24. It's a billet Newman cam basically a standard duration but higher lift on both inlet and exhaust. The exhaust is Phoenix 6-3-1 with wheelbarrows. I'll check the timing but BD said he set it at 13 degrees. The cam that was in there was a TR6 PI from Bastock. I've measured the lift at 280 thou but don't know the duration. I assume based on the lift and the bumpy tickover it's 290ish. The 6J and 7B needles are both about 50 thou at the bottom. The 7Bs with a slightly thinner taper didn't make any difference to the power/torque and ran rich. Obviously standard 6AC where way too lean. The head has been gas flowed including valves and port matched so it should breath easier. It spins up a treat and has a very flat torque curve about 105lbs/ft at 1500rpm to 119 at 4800. The Bastock cam made 112bhp and 120 torque.
  25. Mine needs a new set of dentures! Iain
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