Jeffds1360

But I only had to do the brakes because of the uj replacement and that has failed so I am well p'd off! Back under tomorrow and recheck how circlips fit. Maybe need thicker ones due to trying to force them in when two needles were displaced.... ahhh man. Waracar I got. Geordie boy don't give up!

Yes, the shaft was really tight but the flange was just so so. So I double checked the circlips and all seemed well. Just had a test run............it is worse!!!??? Right turn has a pronounced knock knock noc at 10mph. Fed up. Going out. Goodnight.

Brakes sorted. Test run undertaken Ohhhhh sugar . knock knock knock on right turn and even more pronounced than before ROLLOCKS off out now. I'll put brain in gear tomorrow

N/s/r had muck in it. Cleaned it out and now all are fully bled and it is the hardest I have been since I got it! The pedal I mean!!! BUT..... still got uj problem

Mr Newton, the gravity man is doing the business right now !!! £ out of 4 done. N?SR is being a bugger. bleed nipple was wat too tight. Might stick a vacuum on it .... or remove and see what occurs. My smile is back...???

Cheers Pete, I am changing the fluis as it read 5%+ on my little test thingumyjig. New stuff is zero Just had 5 mins with the wife pumping but she wanted away to do ??? whatever they do. good news is I have n/s/f clear but muggins here had missed the master level going down, could not believe it all went in 5 strokes! So, got a funeral at 1 but back at 2 with my technically adept daughter and we will sort it. You need to copy and paste that reply!!! Now I have had a chance to search I have seen it a few times Us newbies eh? Thanks

OK thanks, I see that now. Taking into account the manifold location, the n/s/f is closest then. I'll just use gravity until I find an assistant

Cheers Johny. Can anyone confirm that just putting a vacuum bleeder on a bleed nipple will NOT work unless the brake pedal is depressed then? Also is it not farthest first and work in??? (o/s/r, n/s/r, o/s/f and n/s/f [as it is closest to the manifold] although o/s/f is nearest to M/C)

Is there a recommended method or is it necessary, to bleed the master after removing it cleaning and re fitting? Or just fill it up and do a normal bleed of all 4 corners, in the right order? Thanks guys. Long time no do

Py's....jarmies..um, pyjamas ...not had any either for 45 ish years.. only reason I was up was bloody car!

Put your jarmies on and a dressing gown and get stuck in man! I was up 'till 9pm yesterday and again at 6am without my boiler suit on I put it on at 10 when wife came down and at 2pm she brushed me down with a rubber tipped brush as we had to pick her 90 year old mum up from hospital. That was novel!

:)... I think that is where I was at, .........pleased it is not Left hand drive Thanks Colin. I await with trepidation a parcel for Jeff I used to live at 289 *** it was the longest road in what was Northumberland (pre '74) so if you just put 289 N'land, it would get there... Now, I'm just round the corner and we are bloody north tyneside, in tyne and wear.... which does not even exist.... oh for a border at Hadrians wall

My brake pipe manifold seems to be under the fuel pump/dynamo area so the corner I am working on (osr) is further away then nsr then osf & nsf. How do I bleed master to manifold (just in case)?? You know what it is.... I'm getting a bit 'fed up' with this.... I only wanted to rescue a real car and have a run about for the summer but what with the porous roof, the uj (s) the steering column movement, ignition barrel falling out and the back of the windows not sealing to the roof, along with various small bodywork 'holes' found and paintwork really ruined by it being in storage for so long each year with a heavy cover rubbing off all the high points I am getting a bit..... whats the word?? Actually quite pleased that I have done some repairs and getting much satisfaction Also it has been very well maintained,..... grease on handbrake cables, grease/hypo90 on all joints, undersealed and good carpets badly fitted! recent pads and shoes and 'track rod ends' newish battery etc etc also the seats pretty well unmarked, and it has a recon engine.with only 26k .... shrug.... should I be happy

yes guys, I had a leak as I disconnected the pipework to take the axle off to do the uj. As I said, I did the recommended method of clingfilm over the master cylinder and only got, as I said, about 100 cc in my catch can 'drip tray' but when I finished the uj job I found the master cylinder was empty!!!??? (it was overnight but no more fluid in drip tray). No Alex, I did not 'obstruct the brake pipe' because I had to undo the hard pipe and also I do not like 'nipping' flexies....how would I obstruct the hard brake pipe? So.... not a problem then ? I'll just open all 4 nipples, attach pipes with one way valves (got no mates to open and close nipples) If I do them one at a time which order should I do them?

Well, it's all back together but I have no brakes. Put clingfilm over master and I only got about a hundred cc in my catch can from the rear wheel disconnection. Took master cap off and it is empty!!! I wanted to change the fluid anyway so filled it with new dot 4. and put my one way on the open nipple but SFA. no pedal feel at all. pump pump pump still nothing Tried my vacuum sucker but still nothing came through. Bugrere it, I'm having a break from brakes now.. If the master cylinder empties itself does it need bleeding somehow? How the hell did the leaf spring get that low??? Does it droop overnight needs bushes all over now! Catch you all later.

Well you were right.......... no comment 2 needles dropped, but not the end I was working on!! Typical. I am now an expert in hammer and socket uj replacement. Just waiting to borrow some cir clip pliers and then back together for a lunchtime run out.... unless the government introduces another lock-down???

Okey dokey lads, I got it apart ok but have given up on the refit, I managed to get the opposite circlip back out but my modified pliers broke, so again so I'm stuck. Time for bed said Zeberdy .. rest my poor back

This is getting sorted right now. New UJ driver side. If I manage , nearside too. I have a little problem but am sleeping on it See my post about 'oh no it's my diff' ......... tame mechanic was wrong, well, a bit wrong. There is play in diff but the noise is 99% i'm sure the o/s uj. Tomorrow will tell

Well I'm in my garage now, with very greasy hands and am 95% completed the uj replacement...... but.... will the last cap go down past circlip slot.... no! No......., I've not dropped a needle Bush in! I see top of slot but am reluctant to force it any more.....hmmmmm....release grease nipple...good idea Colin.. catch you later Nope... given up ... need a break.. like 14 hour break. Been on and off for 10 hours now. Thanks for input all.

Yes I think so Johny. Nothing seems to have play. I got the circlips out but my vice is way to small and I'm a bit stuck so watching the GP on TV for a couple of hours.and then attack the old ujs Anything else I need to check under there? There's a round hole into boot and my spare wheel well has rust holes! What size rubber grommets are in the underbody? Looks about an inch?

Well I bit the bullet and went for it today. 3 hours later...... ring spanner too thick sockets even thicker, no one said the uj bolts were a right barstew to get out! So .... all off, into vice and 1st circlip out, 2nd circlip ....ping.. circlip pliers broke!!! Sunday afternoon...no hope. Having a break. Trying my pointy nosed pliers later

So.... let me get this straight. My 13/60 is the same as a Mk1V spitfire and we have, as standard a a 5/8" male/male thingy sticking out the block but there are only about a hundred types of filter that fit 5/8" and some of them are alright but expensive? If I get an adapter to change to 3/4" I will have an even bigger choose of filter of which many are better and cheaper? There seems to be an option on adapters........ one that screws on to the 5/8 and makes it 3/4 but may have a spacing problem ...or.... an adapter that replaces the 5/8 and presumably I have to remove the 5/8 and screw in a 5/8 with a 3/4 male. and then I have a bigger set of options ... BUT, as our cars do not seem to be listed on the general sites for parts I need to listen to you all as to which filter fits what. Chinese do a £3 adapter British are £15..... why what and where should I do what? Seems simpler to stick with my 5/8 and get a filter with a valve ??? Oh.. btw, I gave up on doing the uj. The exhaust was in the way , my back gave in and I had no clearance I'm also confused about being a member and being a ???.......... I went to membership and joined (for free??) so not a real member. I went to the shop and signed up but got lost and still not sure who I am.. so... next week I will pay my 50 whatever and then become ... ?? a member?? ... It's late (up at 4am) I'm tired and lewis has pole

Aaaaaaah I see. Thank you both. Maybe I knocked it off? Wish me luck for tomorrow. It's 50 years since I wielded big spanners with intent. I did go camping in a tent a few times. The wife was 6 months pregnant and it snowed. It was Easter 1977. We wore wellies!

Duxford...300 miles!!! 6 hours!!! Eeeek? Sorry nothing closer? Funny, I got notification of your post but not the other two??? Ok. I have a spitfire mk1V block so no adapter required. I'll look at Mann for no drips and quicker pressure. Starting uj replacement tomorrow hope my tools are strong eenough. Fitted two spot lamps to my fibreglass front valance this morning, beside the bumper overiders.......opened bonnet and crushed them ...dum dum dum Big learning curve.

Thanks lads. I'm not getting notification of replies to my posts??? Have I messed my thingy Bobby up?