juppy

Just a couple of clarification points. The club shop hoods are from Don Hoods, and Double Duck is another name for canvas. We no longer offer the canvas hoods as they were only about £10-15 less than mohair and canvas is not as good as mohair as it shrinks. I have had a mohair club hood on my herald since 2007 and it has never been garaged in that time, nor even had a cover over it during the winter and apart from some green algae where I haven’t cleaned it as often as I should it is as good as the day I fitted it, no signs of wear or shrinkage. I do concur about the zip out rear window as I wished I had chosen that option now as it makes folding the hood down so much easier.

Richard, Thanks for the reply, I have passed the info on to the chap that asked the question.

Does anyone know what this came off of as we have had a question from a member and we have no idea. The bell housing looks very Triumph.

John, We now have some old core and can get them re lined, last pair we had done were approx. £60 a set, are you interested in any?

Not yet, it is still planned to be done, it is just a case of getting all the people together at the same time. However to give you an idea have a look at this test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIhO4vdyS3g

No we don't sell the clips i am afraid. Try Rarebits4classics, they might have the correct ones.

Although the various clips used on our cars look very similar, if you look carefully at the parts books you will see that there are a large number of different clips for the trim pieces. Unfortunately they are not all available new now and a lot of suppliers tend to use the "one size fits all" mantra which can lead to much frustration not realising that you have been sold a similar but not the correct clip for the application you require. http://www.jetpress.com/ are worth a look if you get stuck for suitable trim clips, they have a large range and may have the clip you need.

Dave, We used to sell Monroe standard dampers, however they no longer make them for our cars. The black "generic" ones are adequate but do not last any length of time and also if they do outlast the the rubber bushes the bushes on these are a non standard size and you can't get replacements.

Mike, You do need to retain the spacer to make the Hi Torque starter engage correctly. Sometimes there are some shims fitted as well, in that case I always advise that you measure the relative throw from the mounting face and see if you need the shims. Rimmers were 100% incorrect to tell you that you did not need the spacer! As for the different part numbers, I have been dealing with powerlite for over twelve years, both while I was at Rimmers and also while managing the club shop. RAC401 is the correct one for Heralds, Spitfires,Toledos and Dolomites fitted with 948/1147/1296 and 1500 engines. The main difference between the model numbers is the angle the mounting plate is fitted to the motor body to make it easier to fit. I have had the same RAC 401 fitted to a Dolomite 1500, GT6 MKIII, Herald 1200 and a Herald 13/60 and it is still going strong eleven years later, so as you can see the part number is not quite as important as some suppliers would make out, it is just more difficult to fit on the six cylinder applications in this guise as the terminals are against the block because the starter is on the other side compared to the 4 cylinder engines. It only starts getting important which one you fit when you stray away from the Herald/Vitesse/Spitfire/GT6/Bond range and start looking at Stags, TR's and Dolomites with OHC engines. I hope this helps.

Ian, I run with the system you have suggested in that I have a piece of sq. section steel tube with plates welded at the correct angles so that it runs from the behind the hole I have made at the top of the B post to the original mounting place on the wheel arch. It took a bit of trial and error to get the right shape and angles to clear the folded hood frame, but at least now there is some strength behind the B pillar. One other idea that was suggested by Securon themselves was that the force on the seat belt is always going to be in tension so you could use a properly made strap ( i.e. seatbelt material with propper fittings either end) to provide the tension reinforcement in the event of an accident and this would not get in the way of the frame so much. The only problem with that is that you would have to get someone like Securon to make them up to make sure they were strong enough so I suspect the cost would be too high. A welder some tube and 3mm plate seems a better option.

Halfords classic 20/50 is actually made by Comma, as i found out when talking to Comma with a veiw to stocking there oils in the club shop.

Bob, Yes it is BSP you want, we can supply them, we should have some in stock by the end of the week. Also Paul got it mixed up, 1/8" are the smaller ones you need for U/J's and trunnions.

You need 1/8" BSP for the trunions and prop shaft, and 1/4" BSP for the steering rack.

Having watched the program, I'd quite like to do this to my 13/60 engined Herald. I know from Fuzz that it was a VW Polo throttle body that was used and needed very little modification to fit. However I don't know which one it was other than it was an early Polo. As far as I can see the first injected ones were 1983 onwards. Does anyone have any idea from which model/year the throttle body was from, and what the part number may be? I have all the megasquirt electronics to drive it and although I know multi point would perform better i want to keep this fairly simple. Garth

I think you will find that the Bosch ones are painted or powder coated mild steel. The TEX ones are stainless. I will make enquires but I'm not holding my breath for a manufacturing giant like Bosch to make a special small batch of stainless ones!

I have just contacted Tex the manufacturer and we are working together to ensure that this problem is addressed immediately.

I am sorry to learn of the problem with the wiper blades that we have supplied, as I put in the email I sent you, we have had very few if any problems with these until this example. I shall be contacting the supplier as these parts are regular sellers in the shop and if there is a quality problem I want to nip it in the bud as soon as possible. Rest assured the club shop takes quality and service seriously and will work with the suppliers for a fix where ever possible to eliminate these problems if and when they pop up, or switch suppliers, drop products if this is the appropriate action to take. Unfortunately inspection of these parts in this situation would not have identified the problems you are having.

Simon, CK tools do a nice little puffer bottle of powdered graphite, also great for lubricating car locks, again for the same reason that oil/WD40 is not the best solution as it sticks all the crud together and gums everything up. http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-316744/ck-k30050-t6283a-graphite-dry-lubricating-powder.html

Stu, Here is the link to the website to order a certificate. http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archive-services/heritage-certificates.html

Wait and see what is in your January Courier........................

There is a company called Diginate on the internet who will produce any quantity of stickers and the price is updated as you fill in the size and quantity online. I have used them for Lincolnshire Area logo stickers and the club shop has also used them for the Bond and 2000 stickers recently. https://www.diginate.com/

Paul, Which car of yours is it for? I would suggest that as it is a Lucas distributor that you try the Distributor Dr.

You can only get second hand ones , so welding is the best option, and then clean the weld up with a Dremel or similar. To the best of my knowledge they are steel, but are probably plated, that is what might be confusing you perhaps?

Will, The only pump that should need the spacer is the one for the late Spitfire 1500, TKC3417. I would suggest you have suffered from the all to prevalent " one size fits all" attitude to spares found with a lot of suppliers of parts for our cars. The part number you should have is 208493, this should have screw on connections for both inlet and outlet.

Don, I have leather tilting seats from a Jag XJS sport fitted in my Herald convertible. The fore and aft dimensions of the mountings are the same as the original Triumph seats, but are 4" wider so made some adaptors out of angle iron and they use the original Jag sliding mechanisum. They tilt forward to let back seat passengers in and are also fitted with electric lumbar adjustment and heated ( yet to wire these up!) Also the seat belt stalks fit to the seats so they move back and forth with the seats. They are cream in most cars but DIY leather recolouring is easily do able and is not heath robinson at all. There are leather dye/paint kits available or you can use Vinylkote which works on leather and PVC, I have used this in the past and is excelent stuff on both materials and does not wear off.