ludwig113
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Posts posted by ludwig113
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Hi all,
As i'm still in the welding and cutting stage......how is this gap between the tunnel and cover filled? am i missing a part?
It's about 1cm all around
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On 24/01/2021 at 18:42, wimpus said:
I did notice a blow from the exhaust manifold against the head..
This morning got my spare gasket on it ( now need Payen HG as spare and manifold gaskets !).
Now it doesnt blow and driving well.
Done a 40/50km trip today to see how well she drives.
Done it good !
that's an interesting air filter setup you have there , filtering the air before it gets to the air filters?
paul
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8 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
we all had to learn there was no alternative at 12 i could mend a puncture fix the brakes and fit a chain , these days they chuck it away and expect a replacement to land at their feet
Pete
it's things like this that really wind me up these days, even if you show them how to do it, there still not interested.
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ok, thanks for the replies, just testing the water but will probably get Timkin in the end.
paul
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hi pete,
i've seen front and rear wheel bearing kits on ebay
i'm just seeing what options are out there before ordering anything.
cheers paul
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hi all,
so as the title says are LPB Bearings any good?
can't say i've ever heard of them before...
cheers paul
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i've always used Optimate for a trickle/topup charge. i have one of the original units but they now do 6/7 different variations.
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i'm sure pete said that some people have tapped the themostat housing on the GT6 and put a bolt in it...
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whatever you do, take LOTS of pictures before and during the dis-assembly , building an engine isn't difficult but you have to be methodical, make notes and take pictures.
unfortunately you will probably have to buy some semi specialist tools especially if you're doing timing/top dead centre etc.
paul
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i'm a couple of years off from getting my gt6 on the road(money etc) but when i do i would be willing to test various makes of pads. realistically it would only be fronts but i'm up for it.
paul
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18 hours ago, clive said:
I had greenstuff on my last spitfire (fitted when it came to me, all unused and 4 pot calipers as well)
seemed "OK" but not reassuring. Better than unbranded pads was my feeling, not as good as asbestos pads. And they made LOADS of dust.
yes the ones i used on motorbikes made loads of dust, maybe that's why i could bed in a set in only 2 laps of brands hatch....
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I notice on alot of brake threads that no-one seems to like greenstuff pads. I used to love them on my motorbikes, infact that was usually the first thing i changed to.
Has the manufacture/material/company changed in the last few years?
Strange they worked so well on bikes but not cars???
paul
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Just disassembled all the rear hubs and removed all the bearings on my mk3, gt6.
I was going to change the studs for longer ones anyway but 2 of the studs on one hub are a different length and 1 on the other hub is a different length.
It looks factory but could be someone else's bodge....
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when i started my gt6 resto i couldn't weld, i can now.... not brilliantly but it's not going to fall apart.
start with scrap metal then go for easy welds on the car like little patches or spot welds on new panels.
you learn to weld up holes early on because you will "blow thru" the thin sheet on our cars, everyone has done it!
if you use gas, get larger 9 litre bottles( i use hobbyweld) rent free (i.e. you can keep the bottle as long as you want).
i have a gas/gasless migmate, it's great if you run out of gas in the middle of a lockdown as you can switch to flux cored wire and carry on.....
paul
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a general moan...
i just got 2 repro brackets that are supposed to be the mirror image of each other, they fit but god knows who made the tooling.
each edge is either a different shape or length than is mirror image.
sorry moan over!.
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I was speaking to an autowindscreen fitter today and he said a good way to fit the chrome insert is to first fit a 2mm cord into the slot.
Then fit the chrome in before putting the rubber on the screen etc.
Then once the main screen is fitted pull the chrome insert cord towards the middle of the screen carefully making sure the seal pulls up to the base of the chrome.
He said he did one recently, no problems.
paul
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On 20/08/2020 at 08:46, classiclife said:
Clive,
IIRC, you have forgotten one of your main items................ the faithful cable tie, well not just one !!
Regards.
Richard
once repaired my old vw transporter gear change with 4 cable ties, it was so much better than standard that i still had it like that driving around europe 6 months later!
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i've had a couple now, i personally like nextbase and they do some great front and rear facing add on modules.
the only thing i would def. do is buy from somewhere you can return a faulty item to.
paul
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you have to have tea in the garage! i bought an insulated fishing brand Camouflaged cup, i can't always find it but the liquid stays warm 😎
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On 21/08/2020 at 15:23, Colin Lindsay said:
Not a bodge, more a case of... serious neglect. If that was a child he'd do time.
at least it won't rust!
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Lol mine too... when I bought my first Spitfire I was told that the doors were tight and the windows would not wind up fully but this could be fixed with a 'door gap adjusting tool'... just fit it to the door and wind out. They never said that this was BEFORE the sills were welded, not after. The photo shows how the 'restorer' had fitted the new sills at the A post...
jesus !
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5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
GASRAMKIT from the Club Shop - according to their latest catalogue; no other part number that I can see.
ok cheers
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hi, does anyone have part numbers for the gas struts, cheers
paul
gearbox cover to tunnel gap filler?
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
you are right pete, the flange isn't helping things, i'll remove that and try again.
cheers