ludwig113
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Posts posted by ludwig113
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Hi all,
My much played around/botched gt6 mk3 had a replacement wing with a dodgy fuel filler cutout.
I'm replacing the whole wing and want to get the hole in the right place... is there anything or anyone who has measurements to line it up correctly?
cheers paul
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Hi all,
As the title says i'm going from a rotoflex setup to CV shafts on my '72 gt6 and i want to mount the shocks on the frame.
From what i gather the frame extensions were to clear the rotoflex setup so i won't need them with the CV shafts ?
If that's correct , which rear shocks do i buy? standard non roto spitfire/gt6 ?
cheers paul
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30 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Worth every penny, too. I think I'm going to have to learn to weld bodywork and it may look like a dog's dinner when finished, but it's better than at present, where the car is sitting gathering dust because no-one will touch it...
sad to hear about jigsaw but go for it colin.
i couldn't weld anything a few years ago but i've done nearly all of my gt6 tub now and 95% of the welds are ground down anyway.
paul
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48 minutes ago, JohnD said:
Doesn't matter for track days, but the regulation competition tow today is a fabric one! Made from the same webbing as slings, it allows a very big hook to be put through the 'eye'. Google for 'tow loop'
Not expensive, either.
John
i didn't think of that, cheers john
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11 hours ago, clive said:
The extra loop on the arb mount was for tiring cars down during transport. Not ideal as a tow hook.
Are you thinking of one for trackdays/racing? I made one from an engine lifting eye (can't remember which engine) and some flat bar. Welded together and two holes drilled, it fits though the front grille and bolts to the underside of the front crissmember. Never been used...
Can't do a pic as away for another week...
thanks clive, someone told me that was a tow hook, makes more sense as a tie down.
cheers
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hi all,
i'll be starting work on my chassis soon,
has anyone fitted an aftermarket tow hook to the front of their gt6 ? i know where the proper one mounts(off the front roll bar mount) but i don't have the proper tow clamp.
any pics would be appreciated.
cheers paul
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i saw an autowindscreen bloke in his van yesterday and asked if they could do our classic triumphs and he said yes no problem
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On 08/09/2019 at 16:39, steveweblin said:
Try the GT6 Vitesse Workshop Manual available from many good book shops or for free from my website: http://vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals
Here 1 such page as an example.
thanks very much steve exactly what i wanted.
cheers paul
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19 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:
Over on the Triumph Dolomite Club, Dave kindly provided a copy of the Standard Triumph Hardware catalogue: https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/view/hpS6mCM0mn?shareUid=369da33af68d45ada0c70e0b9b28b264
I find it helpful to be able to translate Triumph part numbers from the parts catalogues into something generic I can get from somewhere like Namrick.
thanks for that but i cant get into it.
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6 hours ago, ShaunW said:
And when you've got your list, that's when you find out the POs have used a breaker bar to wind in 'near enough' bolts with 'close enough' thread gauges. Or instead of being a threaded hole its just a hole, with a nut waxoiled to the back, the likes of which have never been seen by mankind before or since.
I'm not convinced any two bolts are the same on mine.
trust me, i wont be surprised when that happens...
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thanks john,
i can't see a list in the manuals i have, hopefully someone can scan the relevant page if possible.
cheers paul
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Hi all,
i've probably missed this but is there a list of nut and bolt sizes for all the locations on the cars we own, would be handy for chasing threads etc
mine is a gt6 mk3
cheers paul
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On 04/09/2019 at 22:57, Adrian Saunders said:
i miss read that but the mounts are off set and the arms are straight
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as pete says, the mounts are off set and the radius arms are straight.
paul
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i had the one pictured, it was ok until the on switch failed on day 2 !
search for "moss angle grinder" on ebay, it has the switch on the bottom and is much more comfortable to use, about £20.
paul
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3 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Ludwig,
Hm, I think BW is correct, they're just sticking in whatever comes to hand. Although, I suppose it works on all sorts of cars with all sorts of lights, requiring different fuses. Mine was sold as for a Triumph and came with 10 amp. fuse.
Doug
you could be right.
it says my wiring is for H4 bulbs.
paul
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i'm following this thread as i want to do the same.
i already have the headlight/relay wiring as well, mine has a green 30a fuse...
paul
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the originals are just welded to the back of the frame
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hi doug,
i have one of those ready and waiting for when i rebuild the car thanks, i would just like to do the rest as well.
i'll be getting a new loom so i might have to speak to autosparks about building in a proper fusebox and relays...
cheers
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A nice but short (2 pages) article with diagrams in the April 2019 edition, giving a basic overview of using relays.
I know its not necessary to convert the fuse box etc but it would be good if there was a standard basic setup that we could all follow to separate out the circuits.
I have to admit electrics are my weak point...
paul
mk3 gt6
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i used to like his 2 stroke tuning book when i raced bikes years ago.
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i offered to show some work people(men and women) who wern't confident at changing wheels how to do it... just in case.
no one wanted to learn, they would rather wait hours to let someone else get their hands dirty, instead of being back on the road in 10 mins......
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i re did all of my bezels in black, the originals seem to be thin steel but you can buy new brass ones, you can also get the proper sponge seal in various lengths.
just scuff the surface and use a fine primer, i then used halfords satin/semi gloss black. they came out really well.
if you have any lucas instruments, some came with an actual black bezel that fitted over the chrome one.
gt6 mk3 fuel filler hole
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
that's a great help, thanks nigel