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ludwig113

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Posts posted by ludwig113

  5. More on MOT exemption

    in General

    Posted

    if they offered very good terms on new electric car hire, more people might give it a try.

    but until you can get in an electric car and guarantee to be able to charge it no matter where in the country you are, it wont really take off.

     

  9. GT6 rotoflex v normal handbrake cable

    in Braking System

    Posted

    18 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

    I don't see the problem?  On a roto car the guides are on the tub, not the chassis, so provided you are using the original tub (or any other tub from a roto car) you can use the original guides and original cable.  You can either leave the guides that come with your new chassis on it (they won't interfere with anything), or cut them off.

    If you are also changing your tub for one without guides on it, I would strongly recommend transferring the guides from old tub to new and using the original roto layout.  This is because the geometry of the cable-run is quite different between the two systems and using the chassis mounted guides with rotoflex causes more problems that simple interference with the doughnuts themselves.  Basically the cable tension changes rather drastically with suspension position, causing the handbrake to come on when passengers/loads are carried, or even when travelling over bumpy roads, unless the cable adjustment is set very slack.  There are also differences between the relay levers for the two types concerning the amount of offset from the centre pivot.

    Nick

    thanks nick that makes sense,

    i'm changing the middle floor/suspension hump.

    its easy enough to change the guides so i'll do that.

     

    cheers paul

  10. GT6 rotoflex v normal handbrake cable

    in Braking System

    Posted

    1 hour ago, clive said:

    Are you still using the rubber rotoflex's? If so there are clearance issues if you use the non-roto handbrake guides. The body guides were fitted for a good reason! And I think it makes adjustments harder to get correct, all to do with the length of the shaft changing with travel and the longer distance between the body-mounted guides and the rear wheels helps compensate.

    hi clive,

    no i'm ditching the roto rubber and fitting the CV conversion.

    from looking at the parts book it looks like the difference between the 2 systems is just 1 cable. shorter for the rotoflex and longer for non-roto, everything else is the same.

  11. GT6 rotoflex v normal handbrake cable

    in Braking System

    Posted

    32 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    the two designs  are different lengths   now i dont know it its going to be too  long  or too short it will be one or the other  

    someone has the lengths ???

    if too short add a link . if too long ......?

    Pete

    ok, cheers pete.

    i don't see why i cant cobble together something that will work.

     

    paul

  12. GT6 rotoflex v normal handbrake cable

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Hi all,

    my current chassis is rotoflex but i will be changing that to a non rotoflex chassis and adding brackets so i can still use all the rotoflex suspension.

    i've no issues with this bit.

    however the rotoflex handbrake cable guides are on the body and the non-roto chassis has them on the diff. mounts.

     

    the million dollar question....

    can i just use a non-roto handbrake cable ? i can't see why not but i thought i would ask.

     

    cheers paul

  13. GT6 Mk3 4-pot caliper conversion

    in Braking System

    Posted

    4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

    I have Mintex 1155s which made a surprisingly big difference. They are now however quite expensive, around £60? 

    KE14086 would be a 1972, at that point servos were an extra, they were not fitted as standard until 1973 along with the larger brake cylinder. Servo or not, the car would have had the smaller brake cylinder. If there is a servo it will be a Girling and probably by now not very effective. Worth fitting a Lockheed type.  And before anybody else says it, servos don't make braking better. Just easier, less scary and more like a modern.

    I also tried some dimpled and grooved disks that I got cheap in a Rimmer's sale, they didn't make any difference! But then I'm not in competition like John. Also they were noisy so I took them off. Now they sit in the discards drawer. :(

    Doug

    how much did you pay for the discs and do you want to part with them ???

  16. Lidl Welder 40 - 90amps

    in Tools

    Posted

    40 minutes ago, JohnD said:

    Difficult to tell if it has a cooling fan, but it is said to have "Forced Air Cooling"!

    As long as that is so, OK.  My first welder had no fan, and the thermal switch would make it cut out after twenty minutes or so, whereupon it would take several hours to cool down and start working again.  I strapped an extractor fan to the side, and Lo!  It worked continuously!

    So don't buy a welder with no fan.

    John

    there fine john, never had mine cut out.

    also paul h, when you get a bottle also buy yourself a welding trolley off ebay, about £35.

     

    paul

  17. Lidl Welder 40 - 90amps

    in Tools

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Paul H said:

    Been researching Welders - Is this one ok - appreciate the gas would be expensive but enough to get started then purchase / rent a larger bottle 

    Paul 

    welder.jpg.168f100427afa48ccde0e307de167077.jpg

    that's exactly what i have.

    just so you know there are 4 main controls, high/low power and 1 and 2 switches. using a combination of these your able to do car panels no problem. the way i found to weld is to set a power output and then play with the wire speed(probably higher than you think) and you'll get great welds.

    btw, go for a proper gas bottle from the start. i spent alot of time messing around with those small cannisters including buying some that i reckon were empty when i bought them.....

    i use hobbyweld 5 - co2 argon mix.

     

    paul

    • Thanks 1

  21. Car Painter recommendations!

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    seem like alot of us have the same ideas re "having a go"

    i couldn't weld but i bought my own mig, now i'm welding everything on the car.

    i have sprayed in the past and will be doing mine in my garage, and i'll build a tempory booth inside with extraction.

    also plan to buy a decent top coat/final finish spray gun, it makes alot of difference.

     

    paul

  22. Tutorial days , advice on basic twiddling

    in General

    Posted

     

    5 hours ago, JohnD said:

    Thanks, Pete, for the list.  

    Determined, I presume, by what the willing volunteers felt were important.     (Biased needles especially!  What's a biased needle?)   That's good, the WVs were clearly experienced Triumpheroes.      But any symposium needs feedback.   What do the recipients think, of subjects presented?    Comprehensive?  Inadequate?  More or less?  

    Trying to help ensure that another time - and there must be another time! - just gets better.

    JOhn

    I think the fact that we kept saying"ahh so thats how you do it, or, never thought about that way of doing something" showed that most of us had something to learn.

    for me, the temperature compensator settings and stromberg setup static and running tutorial ,

    the wiper boxes ,

    tappet adjustment again static and running(with feeler gauges)

    wheel toe in/out

    strobe ignition timing

    gearbox talk

    also just general chat about the tools people use good/bad etc

     

    paul

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