ludwig113
-
Posts
214 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by ludwig113
-
-
49 minutes ago, GT6M said:
Keep yer carb bodies, an fit some injectors in em, or in the mani, an run EFI, !!!
there systems oot there noo thats doo,n this.
or run mikuni's or keihin etc
-
On 04/06/2020 at 12:35, Pete Lewis said:
old and wonky are best closed to a permanent shut ,
they do or should only open up with high under bonnet temperatures and this increases the idle and weakens the mixture by allowing a small air bleed to bypass the throttle plates
they are when old normally found to have the small plastic plunger partly open at cold and normal temereatures ,, this you do not want , you cannot set the idle mixture if the air bleed is open
so remove the small housing and its plastic cover you can tickle the the plunger to see if its open , note there are two 0 rings to seal the housing to the carb body these need to work or air is sucked in regardless of any setting . to close it screw the small nut to pressure the plunger down its bore .
the mixture should be no dark art, on CDSE the needle is adjusted by sticking a hex key down the dashpot tube, the needle has a small delrin washer attached to its upper end this must be flush with the base of the air piston
if the diaphragm is all baggy wash with petrol will return it to size , make sure the small locating lug on the diaphragm rim is located in the small cut out on the body
or................ to save any faffing about turn the carb to manifold gasket upside down and you block the air bleed for good
it is purely to aid emission results when over heated but if incorrectly set will affect the whole running of the engine as the mixture will never be correct
Just Do It
Pete
i remember you going thru this on one of the "twiddle" days, good info.
cheers
-
as others have said the chassis's are not spot on, i've just welded a new set of rotoflex mounts onto a spit/gt6 chassis.
i spent a long time measuring gaps etc and then decided on the middle ground for final welding.
it doesn't help when the rear upright marked E on your picture is out by about 5mm......
edit:-also make sure you weld them with the polybush spacer installed as the ones i got wern't the correct width and had to be massaged.
paul
-
9 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said:
Do you have an endoscope and an iPhone?
i've got an endoscope for a laptop, should be interesting.
-
I've just cut up my old basket case gt6 roto chassis and whilst the the front(what's left of it) and rear are flaking rust inside the centre is in very good condition.
What also surprised me was the was black paint inside, i thought they were untreated.
I was going to have my new chassis dipped and stripped but i might just treat the inside and just spray it.
Think i'll stick a camera down the new chassis and see what the condition is.
paul
-
7 hours ago, Mjit said:
This is a great theory but I'd question its practicality, unless you happen to own a private road/race track.
1. 3-4 light applications from 30mph down to 0mph. OK, might be able to manage this one, though would have to be careful about what time of day so my road is quiet-enough to do it without someone driving in to me.
2. 6-7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph. Humm. Well I live in London so no roads near me where 70mph is safe, so looks like I need to drive on old pads to near a motorway, then change the pads at the side of the road. Even then I can't help feeling trying this on the M25 would end up being "6-7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph, or until an lorry plows in to the back of you at 56mph".
Yep i have the same problem, inc the M25.
I tend to go by the motto, " little and often" for any pads the first day to bed them in properly and then make sure they are warm on day 2 before any heavy braking..... works for me....
When i raced bikes i could bed in a set of pads in 2 laps of Brands Hatch.
paul
-
42 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
as a stenciled number its more likely a manufacturers identification ,
Pete
thanks pete
-
Hi all,
does this number on a roto gt6 mean anything or is it just a part number? i can't see anything online.
cheers
-
14 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
The four holes in the Moss version look to be for an additional plate to which the rubber surround is then fitted, as in this photo - but where you get one from, or who supplies any, is so far beyond me. It appears you can have a certain amount of leeway in cutting the tunnel to suit your own car - which you shouldn't really have to to - then covering it up with a plate and seal, but whether you buy one or make one is uncertain.
i've got one of those plates, it may have been a later model spit but it means you can fit a rubber gaiter instead of the one pictured.
p.s. got mine off the bay
paul
-
17 hours ago, ahebron said:
Like Colin not till you mentioned it🙄
But why does the diff look shiney?
it's one of those new polished diffs.......
err no, it's just a plastic bag as i was doing alot of cutting and grinding.
-
15 hours ago, ahebron said:
Ludwig that took me far to long to work out what it was you are doing.
I was looking at the photo thinking it was the front of the car not the back and that it was sitting between chassis rails not on the floor.
Therefore I could not tell what car it was or why you were doing it.
So please confirm it is a Spit/GT6 and that is the right hand side of the car looking back, if not I need help.🙄
I had better take my pills now😉
yep mk3 "GT6 and that is the right hand side of the car looking back "
you'll also notice there's no rear floor/suspension hump.
paul
-
30 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes useful if you live in Clovelly !!!
personally if sitting in the car i prefer ......SEATS Ha !
well someone had to say it
Pete
It's hard enough trying to weld in there as it is with everything stripped out. 🙂
High back USA seats will go in eventually.
-
ok, maybe not a tool but something to make your life easier.
I'd been meaning to make this for a while as it was really uncomfortable on the legs if i was sitting inside the car.
-
4
-
-
isn't there a picture somewhere of the triumphs all lined up outside without paint only primer?
i'm sure it happened with all car makers.
-
i'm looking for one that has sucker mounts to mount it at the top of the rear screen
-
apparently petrol motorbikes are exempt(for now) from all this, so petrol will still be around, worst case ....... we'll all have to start riding Triumph motorbikes.....
-
14 minutes ago, clive said:
Calm down everybody.
We don't make or really even influence policy. That is done by people/companies with very large bank balances.
All will be fine. Things will change, they always have. We have been living in times of affluence and consumerism for the last 40 years or so. Yes, we all have central heating, almost a car a person and more than one holiday a year now, but that may have to change. But it will be just that, a change. No point in getting all het up. Better to go and enjoy the cars while we still can! Go on, do that trip around Scotland. And the Alps. And the Dolomites. Visit Spain in your Spitfire, Hungary in your Herald. Vienna in your Vitesse and err Bordeaux in your Bond. enjoy them, make sure by the time petrol is getting hard to find your car is worn out, but has had a life well lived. (then convert it to electric!)
you forgot Germany in your GT6 😉
-
personally i don't think electric cars etc are the answer, we ought to be looking at synthetic fuels.
-
On 24/01/2020 at 09:39, dougbgt6 said:
The smallest Allen key on my car holds the nobs on the heater controls. I don’t have one small enough, but It’s the same size as the one used to adjust the string lengths on my guitar 🎸 so I use the one that came with he guitar.
Doug
same here
-
1
-
-
4 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I've found a link to a set of calipers that will allegedly fit all - Ford, Austin and Triumph, although I had thought that there were differences in the mountings with Fords at least - and if you look down the listing he has given the dimensions. He has three or four sets for sale, all at varying prices, but claims they have a pre-fitted spacer block that has to be removed if they're to be used on the Princess; this would indicate that they've been spaced for vented discs already.
There are second hand Austin originals for £100 also listed by another seller.
This link is quite an interesting article, although he's fitting them to a Marina rather than a Triumph:
http://www.cjw-consulting.co.uk/4pots/4pots.htm
Companies like Willwood do a complete kit for the GT6 but only for single discs.
Are you intending to do a lot of speed? I've heard that there's only a marginal improvement over the originals, but have never tried them myself.
That was the link i was looking at colin,
andy cook has just replied to my question on facebook and it seems that a bit of work will still need to be done to both the calipers and disk before fitting.
i'm not thinking of alot of speed but i will be getting recon calipers as mine are knackered(not worth the time and money to sort them) so thought about the upgrade.
I'll probably just stick with the standard setup and drilled disks(which i already have)
cheers
-
Hi all,
I seem to remember talk of using austin princess calipers with capri vented disc's ??? with a gt6 mk3
Is this right and are there any part numbers to look out for?
many thanks
paul
-
apart from the party(i'm fairly close i think )
find out the cost of the repair panels etc as being able to supply the parts might make a difference to you're quotes...
paul
-
27 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
First thing I did, Ludwig, and amazingly I was able to do it quite simply with only small wiring connectors required! All four replaced and it made a massive difference to the muffled crackling that passed for sound when I bought it. I'd love to be able to add USB connectivity to it, as the jack input for iPods is terrible, and I have a lot of music on USB stick. Sadly I don't have the funds for one of those super duper double-din USB and Bluetooth players that might be easier to fit than my JVC.
just be careful, on some ford's if you remove the factory head unit it can have an effect on the dash clock if you have one.
even on bog standard ford's everything is linked together.
paul
-
1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I've given up on playing with modern cars... too many weird things.
When I slow at junctions or traffic lights the wipers go from 'on' to 'intermittent' until I drive off again, and the sound from the radio fades as the engine revs drop, unless the eco setting is on and the engine stops altogether. I had to admit defeat when trying to connect a replacement head unit to the Mondeo - connect to bluetooth, connect to steering wheel controls, power for the ariels, Fakra adaptor, loom adaptor... then when it was finally in it wouldn't work at all so the original has gone back in and sod the sound quality, which is sadly quite poor. Apparently there's already a USB socket hidden behind the glovebox so I'll explore that for USB stick connectivity. It's getting positively scary. You no longer feel that you're in control; it's either the car or the manufacturer who decides things these days.
best and easiest thing to do is upgrade the speakers in the car, made alot of difference in my ford.
Temperature Compensators
in Fuel System
Posted
there will be more , i've worked thru the whole of covid so i have a slightly different view of it, but we will get back to normality