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dave.vitesse

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Everything posted by dave.vitesse

  1. dave.vitesse
    Scary, was it re-built by some super natural power? Plus none of the normal problems where bits will not come apart. Dave
  2. dave.vitesse
    Richard +1
  3. dave.vitesse
    I also use distilled water in both my Classic cars. Very important if you have an aluminium head. The car that is, TR7. Our water come from bore holes in chalk, lovely stuff. Dave
  4. dave.vitesse
    I agree. They became a sealed for life, no greasing, product around 1970. Trouble is how long is the life of the pump in the first place. Dave
  5. dave.vitesse
    I agree the standard pressures are a start point. Dave
  6. dave.vitesse

    Seized Studs

    dave.vitesse replied to Adrian's topic in Engine

    That's me after a couple of glasses of red wine! Dave
  7. dave.vitesse
    I agree Clive that Chris Witor is the person to contact.
  8. dave.vitesse
    I have the standard pressure as 21lb front and 26lb rear for 145-80-13. MkIV Spitfire. Dave
  9. dave.vitesse

    Seized Studs

    dave.vitesse replied to Adrian's topic in Engine

    I see your using predicted text on your PC Pete. Dave
  10. dave.vitesse
    For road use and with the present fuel available the best cam when running on carbs is the Mk2 308778 cam. The TR5 cam has too much over lap for carbs and ends up with most of the fuel down the exhaust pipe! The TR5 cam is good on injection where the fuel is shot in at the right time. Forget about wild cams for road use as they can be a nightmare when stuck in traffic. However, if you are going to use the car on the track then that is a different story. Dave
  11. dave.vitesse
    All Mk2 and Mk3 GT6, (CD150S and CD150SE) carbs have one choke on the front carb and a connecting pipe so the single choke assembly feeds the other carb. Dave
  12. dave.vitesse

    Seized Studs

    dave.vitesse replied to Adrian's topic in Engine

    I agree with Pete and Richard. Be careful of the manifold as it is cast and can break if you apply to much pressure. Cut and drill out, then re-tap is the best way. When their out you can re-work the flange surface.
  13. dave.vitesse
    If the oil is thin then you will have a lack of power when you push down on the throttle and maybe a flat spot. 20/50 oil is OK. However, BDB needles on a MG prefix engine with K&N filters give a very weak mixture. BAE will give a rich mixture. Try either BDM or BDC with Green springs. The Green springs are the large springs which return the piston to the bridge. Dave
  14. dave.vitesse
    I take it these are the bias springs at the base of each needle. You should be able to use the existing ones. By carefully pulling them off and then refitted to the replacement needles. Not sure if they are ball bearing suction chamber type. Dave
  15. dave.vitesse
    The top of the jet should still have a grove to indicate its 0.10" bore on the HIF carbs. Dave
  16. dave.vitesse
    Sorry, yes you are correct. Yours are the next generation on from the HS6.
  17. dave.vitesse
    Sorry that was a bit confusing. 3b is 0.10" used on HS6 carbs. Your carbs are HS6. 3a is 0.09" used on HS4 carbs e.g Spitfire. Dave
  18. dave.vitesse
    Sounds like the bores are the same. The grove can only be seen when the jets are removed. See attached 3b. Your carbs are HS6 types
  19. dave.vitesse
    Back in the 1960's you used to see Heralds with the sill covers removed and a length of dexion replacing the side rails. Work in progress I guess. Dave
  20. dave.vitesse
    The needle profile looks in a poor state. It should be round. Also BDB needles are to weak. Plus as Pete has pointed out are both the jets the same. They should have a 0.10" bore and have a single grove at the top to identify this. Dave
  21. dave.vitesse
    On the MG prefix engine the needles run from weak to rich starting with weak, BDB- BDM -BDC-BAE, ending with the rich. Yellow spring are the normal but fitting green will improve the low end torque. Air filters are free flow e.g. K&N's. Spent many an hour on HS6's fitted to both 2 and 2.5 litre engine. I was never happy with them on the 2 litre. I am aware they were used on the later 2000TC but they had more to do with emissions than performance. For performance they were OK on 2.5 with right cam and head. Dave
  22. dave.vitesse
    The MG prefix is for a 2.5PI Saloon engine. BDC needles with yellow springs would work on that engine. BAE and green springs will given better performance with less MPG. But one point worth exploring is if the throttles are in sinc and fully opening when you operate the throttle pedal. Thanks, Dave
  23. dave.vitesse
    Thanks Richard for spotting that. You may be correct. In which case they have Sprint tops on emission carbs. This is too fit under the GT6 bonnet. Why not just fit the Sprint carbs? Unless the pipe is from the float chamber vents? Thanks, Dave
  24. dave.vitesse
    The carbs are from a Dolly Sprint. They are fitted to a standard GT6 Mk3 inlet manifold with a Triumph Tune adaptor kit. It is difficult to know what needles and springs you should have without knowing the compression ratio and cam. As a rough start point can you tell me what the engine prefix. e.g CR, ME, MG etc. Dave
  25. dave.vitesse
    The noise is a long term feature of the Vitesse. Yes caused by the clutch plate fingers touching the release bearing. Probably present on other cars but the combination of an aluminium bell-housing and the configuration of release mechanism used appear to amplify the noise, not dampen it. Dave
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