dave.vitesse

Clive, we have the same problem as the water is from bore holes in the Berkshire/Wiltshire downs. If you wash any car with just tap water ends up a dull chalky finish. Dave

Pete, I would talk to Revington TR re parts. They have a lot of experience with the release set-up. Neil Revington worked for MOD QA. Dave

The TR7 doesn't used the same set-up as the 2000/TR6. It uses a variation on the Vitesse/GT6 arrangement of a fork arm pivoting on a fulcrum pin. Dave

Steve, Dependent on your driving style you should get many more miles out of the clutch than 12k. e.g. 50k. Not too sure of your modified arrangement i.e saloon box and TR7 cross shaft. However, the whining noise maybe the release bearing and the difficulty engaging gears may be the release arrangement and or hydraulics. Take the easy route first and look at the hydraulics to start with. Dave

Pete, the 2000/TR carrier has a different part number than the Vitesse/GT6. So I guess its different Dave

It maybe because the hand is not metal. However, I wouldn't like to do it. I guess don't wear a ring when using it! Dave

Pete, When I first saw the Vanguard/TR/2000/Sprint clutch release set-up I thought - "That looks a better engineered arrangement than the GT6/Dolomite/Vitesse set-up". BUT! I agree tipple will help. Dave

Doug, Just some thoughts. Are the drive shafts the same length, the later spits had long half shafts. Are the bearings pushed too far on the tapered shaft, maybe due to wear? I don't know if any of the above is relevant to your situation but they may be worth a check. Dave

Doug, Hmm not good. Dave

Welcome to the forum. Its full of a friendly bunch of people with a good sense of humour. For info- Before Mark owned your Spit it was owned by a Newbury Area member and before that a member of the TR Reg Kennet Valley Group. All local to me. Dave

Welcome Richard, I had a number of Spitfires over the years and have always found them great fun to drive. Overdrive is a good option to have. The spit was the last of the mass-produced separate chassis roadster. Dave

Hope there wasn't any flashback! Dave

+1

Richard, Pete I am hoping the matter will be picked up by the FBHVC. The more people who raise the issue, in their clubs, the better. Dave

Welcome Mike, They all look very smart including the Humber. Dave

Unfortunately the Data Protection Act has made it difficult for clubs to retain and use historic information concerning the cars for the benefit of the members. The only recourse was to apply to the DVLA to obtain historic information regarding one's classic vehicle. But that appear have been stopped. All the hacking going on into databases make a mockery of it all. Dave

For me I stick with distilled water and the original, none OAT, antifreeze. This is because the original coolant has a finite life therefore it makes me regularly flush and check out the cooling system. In theory the waterless coolant shouldn't require flushing as there is no corrosion, but for me it's good to clear out the cooling system anyway which is a must for any TR7 owner. Cost and leaks are my other considerations. As been said its all about choice and what works for you. Thanks, Dave

Yes, the replacing the dynamo with an alternator is very straight forward. There are two item you need one being the mounting bracket that bolts to the block this can be obtained from all the 1300/1500/2000/2500 cars. e.g. Spitfire/Dolomite/ Toledo/Big Saloons. The second is the adjusting bracket/arm and only the 1300/1500, four cylinder, cars will give the correct adjustment. e.g. Spitfire/Dolomite/ Toledo, not the big Saloon. Some of the parts suppliers can supply the bits. However, talk to the people at your local area as they may have the parts on an old engine. As Colin has said the control box needs to be by-passed. Dave

Use the brackets and adjuster arm from a 1500 Spitfire and then its a probably engineer job. I agree with Doug use a 1500 Spit alternator. - A Lucas 16ACR or 17ACR Dave

Hello Martin, email me Vitesse Reg Sec. Dave

Gary, Good to hear you have already gone through an elimination process. It sounds like the original thermostat may well be the problem. As for the bolt - Have you tried another bolt as the thread in housing may be OK and its just the bolt that has stripped. Dave

Welcome Andy, Your Vitesse looks superb. Concerning its history about five years ago the club came concerned about the Data Protection Act and the info kept by the Reg Sec's. Hence we now keep very little info. As already stated your best bet is to contact the DVLA. Thanks, Dave

Sorry chaps to be a bit blunt but to put some direction into this - No if or buts the bolts are a different length due to the thicker shoulder on one side of the thermostat cover. A stripped thread is usually result of a past owner fitting the wrong length bolt, wrong side, and trying to tighten the cover down. As for the temp - Most cars of this vintage run cold in the winter and the standard approach is to replace the thermostat with the hotter running type. In this case an 88C. Both the small four and six cylinder Standard Triumph engines have this characteristic. However, if the gauge is showing cold at all times of the year I would first check the temp sender. If both the temp and fuel gauges read low then check the voltage stabiliser. Finally it could be the temp gauge itself. Sorry to be a bit heavy. Dave

Yes the regulator is inside the alternator. Dave

A positive improvement on the existing arrangement. Don't forget the in-line fuse under the dash by the regulator/control box. Dave