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dave.vitesse

TSSC AO
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Everything posted by dave.vitesse

  1. Paul, If you can tell me the number on the head, on top of the head by number one exhaust/outlet, I should be able to tell you which head it is. Dave
  2. The Vitesse 2 Litre head should be fitted with a blacking plug. The header is fed from the heated inlet manifold which in turn is fed from the thermostat housing. Its the same as the GT6. Only the pre mid 1965 Vitesse 6 had a heater feed from the head. Dave
  3. The engine bay valances were fitted to keep dust and water out of the engine bay. They were not fitted to the first Heralds. Complaints from the motoring press, reviews, about dust and water entering the engine bay resulted in the valances. I have run GT6 with and without the valances. The without was cooler. But, before doing anything else, on all Herald based cars always ensure the gearbox cover is sealed. Dave
  4. Parts you need for the overdrive are as follows- Gearbox with overdrive. Overdrive mounting plate. Mounter on the chassis. Overdrive rubber mount. Mounts the overdrive on the plate. Overdrive prop or shorten and balance yours from 47" to 43.5" Overdrive wiring loom. Overdrive relay. Overdrive steering column switch.* Overdrive steering column switch cow.* To hold the switch on the steering column. Overdrive remote gear change assemble * and overdrive cut out switch. Bracket to hold cut out switch. Overdrive speedo cable. Speedo angle drive. * If you want to use the later GT6 type gearlever with overdrive switch you not require the normal column set up. You will need to cut around 3.5" off the prop tunnel to gain access to the prop u/j as the overdrive gearbox is longer and prop is shorter. To cover up the u/j and prevent anything coming contact with the prop you will need to make up a removeable cover. This is standard on the factory fitted overdrive cars. Think that's the lot. Dave
  5. Many years ago I had the same problem with the Vitesse i.e leaking from the flange to down pipe joint. Got the MIG out and welded it up. The standard weld was OK on the Stainless Steel. Not ideal but it worked. Dave
  6. Duck tape and a couple of tie wraps to keep it in place. Dave
  7. I agree John, as I said when in use. But when the car is being driven hard the engine temp rapidly rises and the fan can kick in. I guess it all about driving style. Dave
  8. Pete's correct it all come out of the petrol tank. A little known fact is the electric fan uses more energy, when in use, than a mechanical fan. This is because the process converts mechanical energy into electrical energy, generator, then back again to mechanical energy, electric fan. The mechanical fan run straight from the engines energy. The main advantage with electric fan is it only comes on when require. Shorter warm up time, No over cooling in the winter. Better cooling when stuck in traffic. Disadvantages - if you drive your car hard in the summer chances are the electric fan will kick in and use more power than a mechanical type. When the electric fan stops working you could have over heating problems in the summer. Dave
  9. Before removing the pointer. With the pointer on zero mph mark the aluminium driving disc with a pencil. Then place a corresponding mark on the metal frame so they line up. Remove the pointer. Now line up the marks by carefully holding the disc and fit replacement pointer at zero mph. Dave
  10. The use of 13lb rad caps only started to come in the late 1960's. That means all Vitesse 6 and 2 Litre (MK1) Vitesse were 7lb. Also you would be lucky to find any Mk2 Vitesse with a 13lb at the time. Increasing the pressure increases the temp boiling point and hence should reduce boiling over. That was the idea, have tried both pressure caps over many years I haven't notice any different and prefer to use the lower pressure cap. Less pressure (Stress) on the cooling system! Dave
  11. Good to hear you solved the problem. Dave
  12. The old Lucas company can't be involved as there is no Smoke. Dave
  13. Please not remove the leads from the alternator and run the engine as this can damage the electronics within the devise. The 18 volts is an open circuit reading with no load connected and is not a very useful figure for fault finding. The correct readings across the battery are with no engine running 12.5 volts. With the engine running at 1500 rpm and greater 14.5 volts. I would first check the wiring between the alternator and the battery and if all is OK then it does look like the alternator's internal regulator may be defective. Dave
  14. Welcome roadster63, with a rolling restoration at least you can enjoy using your Vitesse over the summer. Dave
  15. There is some doubt about running on synthetic oil if the engine has already been subjected to the original mineral oil. Evidently there could be problems with oil seal failure. I would use a good quality mineral oil. 20/50. Dave
  16. Doug, I have the same thoughts, has it already been said and was it me! On your theme - I must go down to the pet shop and buy a Norwegian Blue! Dave
  17. Hello Andrew, Welcome to the forum. The TSSC is all about having fun with our cars with like minded people. A friendly bunch of car nuts! Good luck Triumph hunting, Dave
  18. I echo all the comments and will add - Before doing anything check the colour of the plugs after a run. White = Weak. Brown + OK. Black = Rich. Dave
  19. The one I have make the normal noise as the relay switches. But as I say the car is away at present so I can't provide a maker. Dave
  20. I have an electronic flasher unit on one of my TR7 and that does make the correct noise. It has a timer chip, maybe a 555, driving a switching relay. Hence the noise. Sounds like, no pun intended, there are different makes around. Its being resprayed at present so can give the make of the one I have. Useful info. Buyer beware. Dave
  21. Gary, Never had any experience with the Stag so can't comment. Apart from Help! Dave
  22. Hello Richard, Bigger cooling system and the aluminium head will not store the heat as a cast iron type will. Dave
  23. If you check the temp gauge after stopping the engine all the small four and the six cylinder, engines, increase in temperature for a short while before dropping. So I guess the answer is yes it is a good idea. But watch out for the battery drain if you have a dodgy battery. The slant four OHC engine doesn't increase after turn off, it just drops. I don't know about the wet liner four, Vanguard, or the V8 engines so can't comment. Dave
  24. I did an article on the subject in the Courier July 2008 if that is of any help. Dave
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