dave.vitesse

Back in the 1960's Standard Triumph marketed an anti rattle kit for the remote. This was a rebuild kit that also contained a nylon dished washer to replace the original steel inner dished washer. Well it didn't work as the gear leaver still rattled and the large spring had a habit after use of eating its way through the nylon dished washer. If your remote still has a metal inner dished washer leave it in place. And before anybody asked, yes I did buy the kit and fit one back then. I tried leaving the steel washer and adding the nylon washer. It still didn't work. Dave

Welcome Terry, I would go along to your local area and talk to the people there as they will have a lot of experience re buying a Herald. Plus its also good to meet other Classic car nuts! Dave

Hello Mike and welcome to the forum. Its all very laid back and friendly. Dave

Vitesse - I have 47" for none overdrive and 43.5" with the standard D type overdrive. As Pete's feedback the GT6 prop is too short. One of the part suppliers should be able to provide an overdrive prop. Dave

I believe flushing stuff I was using 10 to 20 years ago is now not on sale. I remember a two stage type. Once you had used the first stage you had to flush again with a neutraliser otherwise the first stage dissolved your engine. Not good for the drains I guess. Dave

Hello Doug, Yes you are right there is a curvature. Using a bit of strong single core wire may help clear things. Sorry I can't remember what I last used on the straight six to clear the cooling out. As its all cast iron there is no great problems in what you use. Garden hose are good! Dave

Ian, Spot on. As you say the 40 is achieved by processing the oil and not by mixing different grades of oil. The breakdown is when the oil starts to come part. The more stop start journeys the more rapid the breakdown. The problem with using a synthetic oil in an engine that has been using mineral oil for some time is the seals may lose their form. The point being if you have been using mineral oil in your classic engine don't change to synthetic. Just change it every year. That's the feedback I have had from an oil research chemist. Dave

In 1973 I bought a new Toledo which indecently was gutless when compared with a new 13/60 I had in the 1967. However, the Toledo engine did 125,000 miles before I pulled it out in 1992. All the bottom bearings had worn out. However, the bores and top end were still in good condition. At that stage I changed every thing to 1500 with 85 BHP available. But that's another story. The point being I ran the engine on 15/40 Superlube. The interesting thing is the oil pressure would start to reduced when the mileage got over 3,000 miles and that's when I used to change the oil. The point being there is nothing wrong with using the original mineral oil as long as you change it regularly. 125,000 miles on a 1296 large crank engine was OK my me. Dave

Doug, Thanks for the link. Dave

There is some evidence that if the oil seals have been subjected to mineral oil for a long period of time the changing over to synthetic oil may cause the seals to loose their form. The same thing happens to brake cylinder seals. Dave

It's probably a Toledo three rail gearbox, fitted 1970 to 1974. As Pete has stated it should read DG. Dave

Pete - I guess that proves tablets side effects. Dave

Well done. Dave

It may be the diaphragms in the carbs causing problems with centralising the needles. However, try this first - as you do the final tightening work the pistons up and down at the same time. Dave

That would cause the mixture to be very weak. It may be the problem. Dave

If the pistons are not returning to the bottom it may be the needles sticking, require centralising or the diaphragms need replacing. Also check the diaphragm in the Smiths emission valve. I agree with Doug re timing and inlet manifold. Dave

If the needles are stuck the pistons will not lift and this would stop it starting, even with easy start. This may not be the problem but please check you can lift the pistons by hand and they then fall back. Dave

I agree with all feed back, it sounds like either blocked float valves or stuck needles. Before stripping the carbs see if the pistons lift and fall OK. Don't forget to re-centre the needle after working on the carbs. Dave

Also check the Trunnion holes in the lower wishbones are not worn oval/elongated. Dave

Excellent and well done. Dave

I second Pete's comments. The HS6 have a larger throat than the Strombergs and this slows down the low engine rev gas speed. In other words the low end torque suffers, it also can create flat spots. The other problem is to get the needles correct over the working range of the engine, time and cost of a rolling road. The original Stromberg CD150s work well on the standard engine. Pete as normal is on the ball. Dave

Doug, if the ballast resistor is in circuit with a 1.4 ohm coil this would give a resistance of 2.9 ohms just 0.1 ohm less than the 3 ohms. This should should work OK. Its if the 1.4 ohm coil was wired in without the ballast resistor then this may draw too much current for the module to handle. As Pete has said the voltage at the dizzy cap will be around 20,000 volts. This is of course is when the points open and is only there for a very short time. The 12 volts found at the dizzy cap maybe the way the meter probs are being connected. If you are not used to electrics its not easy. I agree with Nikky, when in doubt go back to the points set-up. Dave

TSSC Gloucester Area normally have stand there. Dave

Looks like a the short pipe SU mainfold which should be fitted with HS4 carbs. Yes from the 2000TC saloon. The HS6 manifold, on the later 2000 and 2500S, has longer pipes and four stud fixing for the HS6 carbs. In your picture I can only see two stub fixing and short pipes. With HS6 carbs. I agree with Pete it will fit the Vitesse Mk2. However, it may not run as well as the standard set-up with Strombergs. If it runs OK then leave it be. Regards Dave

Pete If you run most electronic ignition modules on a 6v coil without the ballast resistor yes it can cause burn out of it's switching section due to double the current. The accuspark must be wired as given in their instructions. Yes you are correct if the ballast resistor is bypassed then as said the current doubles and may burn out the unit. Also on a ballast system if the main 12 Volt supply is taken from the + tag on the coil then the module will not receive 12 volts. Not only receiving a reduce supply it will be pulsed every time the electronic points close and the coil draws current. As a result the unit may not work. But should be undamaged. With the ballast system the voltage at the coil + tag is only 6v when the points close and and coil draws current.. Not current no voltage drop hence 12 volts when measured with a high resistance meter. The white pink is a resistive wire in the loom appeared on all 1970's models. Also applying the full 12v to a 6v coil will after some time causes the coil and points to over heats, which can causes either to fail. Common problem with the Herald and Vitesse a few years ago where the customer had be sold a 6v coil instead of the correct 12v type. Dave