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trigolf

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Posts posted by trigolf

  3. Vit spotted in Steptoe

    in Spotted

    Posted

    Evening all, a quick line for the Vitesse nerds (like me)!

    Whilst channel surfing tonight, including Talking Pictures, I spotted a white Vit convertible, with two nuns in it! It was being held up by Steptoes cart, before pulling out and passing. I managed to register some of the reg...SUC....C, so I presume it was a 1600. I wonder if it it's survived?

    I'll get my coat now...

    Gav

    • Haha 1

  5. My diff is bleeding!

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Iain, I also have a cv conversion fitted now. My method works with either cv shafts or donuts. With my method, using blocks, you are keeping the spring in its fitted posn. You then remove the spring to diff mounting studs and then the diff mounting bolts and drop the diff on the trolleyjack. It saves messing about with spring lifter bars etc and minimises dismantling.

     

     

  6. My diff is bleeding!

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Be careful, with the pinion nut. If it has a split pin fitted, the diff has solid spacer/shims fitted to set the preload. If the pinion nut is hidden under a metal cap, be very careful. This indicates that a collapsible spacer is fitted. If thats the case record the torque fig reqd to undo it, and then retorque to exactly same fig.

    • Thanks 1

  7. My diff is bleeding!

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Iain, you can replace the pinion seal with the diff in situ,or conversly the output shaft seals  once the driveshaft is out of the way.

    If the diff has to come out,you can take it out without removing the spring, as you have a Mk 2 rotoflex chassis. Check out my method posted 18th June 2018 - Diff removal ( Trigolf). Sorry, doing this reply on my phone. Cant' work out how to copy on small screen!

    Trigolf

     

  8. Breaks pulling to the left

    in Braking System

    Posted

    I'd also check your top shock bushes, in the centre of the top spring pan. Years ago I had some Spax shocks and the NS top Bush wore out very quickly. This caused the car to try and dive into the hedge, particularly under braking. When I eventually found the problem, the whole shock was flopping about!

  12. Check your Manifold

    in Engine

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Ian Foster said:

    Gav

    Here's a photo of the manifold side of the engine. Not very clear I'm afraid as exhaust manifold is partially obscured by the heat shield.

    The finish is a very light silver as you can see.

    (I also fettled the manifold to port match the head, whilst it was off the car)

    Ian

    DSC_8160.JPG

    Thanks for the pic Ian. I dropped off the manifold with QSE yesterday. I opted for the same finish.

    Gav

  15. Check your Manifold

    in Engine

    Posted

    That's just Plus Gas penetrating oil to release rusty nuts!

    Non-Member makes a good point about sandblasting and micro cracks. I think I'll wire brush it and paint with silver, rather than black, high temp paint?

  16. Check your Manifold

    in Engine

    Posted

    I've read about cast iron welding - it seems to get mixed reports. 

    I've got a good spare manifold, just need to get it sandblasted and painted first. Any recommendations on a good heat proof spray paint? 

    Has anyone managed to wrap the standard cast manifold with exhaust wrap? Being an akward shape, it doesnt look like it's possible to do a proper job, compared to an extractor manifold. I'm just curious if it's possible, all in an effort to reduce underbonnet heat😕

    Gav

  17. Check your Manifold

    in Engine

    Posted

    Morning all, 

    Recently, on returning from a run, I have noticed my clothes were smelling slightly of petrol fumes. Numerous checks were made for fuel leaks from cars and pipework etc, but I couldn't find any. However, after removing the carbs and heatsheild, this is what I found! Strangely, the engine didn't seem to sound any noisier than normal, maybe it's my hearing! If you have a heatshield fitted, it might be worth a check. 

     

    20221018_154134.jpg

  19. Vitesse mk2 instrument panel removal

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    17 hours ago, Iain T said:

    Another question chaps. The cardboard finisher panel under the dash was fixed with plastic fir tree fixings which I had to cut. Also my panel is in one piece so can't be easily removed. Can this be fixed in two pieces either side of the steering column and what (removable) fixings are used. 

    Iain 

    Iain, this is the original millboard fixing fasteners. Agree that as a one piece trim, it's a stupid arrangement!

    Gav

    20221018_132035.jpg

  22. Bouncing tacho needle

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Afternoon all,

    The original cable driven tacho on my Vit has suddenly got unstable - i.e. the needle bounces up and down a lot more than it used to, even at idle speed.

    I have oiled the drive cable and it all appears free to move/rotate. The needle moves freely with the gauge off the car and returns to zero, if I shake it gently, so at this point I don't want to start dismantling it. My suspicions are that it more likely to be the cable than the gauge. Do they get tired/stretch over time?

  23. Intermittent Ignition Light

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    11 hours ago, johny said:

    As I say it sounds very much like the brushes intermittently making contact because theyre too short. However your welcome to spend 200 quid instead of a possible 3 on new brushes:  LUCAS 15 16 17 18 ACR BRUSH SET ALTERNATOR REGULATOR LAX31-322 | eBay

    Have to say, I agree with Johny and others. I'd check the brushes and slip ring and / or regulator first. That's all that needed replacing on my 17ACR. Save your dosh for the heating bill!

    Gav

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