trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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I think the first Lotus Elan used the Triumph column. Probably be twice the price if the word Lotus is mentioned!😄
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Paul, Google Laser Oil filter removal tool. I have one and it works very well in tight spaces. There are various copies available. Make sure you get the right size with the correct amount of flats to fit your filter make. The square hole in the centre takes a 3/8 socket drive.
Gav
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Morning all. Thanks for the replies. I can confirm I have 16P imp calipers fitted to a 2L Mk 2. I'd previously seen mention of enlarging the pin holes, but not grinding a little off the backing plate before. I will proceed with caution!
Gav
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Evening all,
The existing front pads on my Vit are a bit thin now, so I thought I'd finally fit the Mintex 1144 pads that I bought just before lockdown. I got them from ebay, from a UK based motor sport company, after following advice on here as to which pad part no. to buy (MGB 633). There was plenty of advice, that the pad retaining pin holes would need easing out to suit the Girling 16P calipers, which I subsquently did and then put them on the shelf to fit later, believing they would go straight on.
Well, time went on and I finally got round to the job today and hit a snag ! As you can see from the pics - the friction material is a different shape, but more importantly, the backing plate is a different shape and too big. The leading edge of the the backing plate is fouling the caliper carrier mounting bracket and stopping the pad retaining pins lining up with the holes in the caliper by a couple of mm. Grr.....😡
So - have I bought the wrong pads ?
Gav
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Thanks DanMi!
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Evening all.
I'm nipping down to Euro car parts tomorrow to get an oil filter for my Vit with spin on adapter. I've seen Mann 714/2 mentioned here before as suitable, but to save time in the shop, what car make model year is it listed for?
Thanks
Gav
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One of the staff on Practical Classics had a problem with his TR6, despite being rebuilt very carefully by a reputable engine builder. The symptoms were the same - mayo etc. He even swapped the head and rebuilt again. Same problem occurred. In desperation, they stripped the engine, sump off and finally spotted a tiny hairline crack in the block water jacket.
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45 minutes ago, johny said:
The fibreglass one comes without a gearlever hole so you have to cut one to suit GT6 or Vitesse but I dont know what the rest of the fit is like....
I bought a fibreglass one from Canley Classics years ago. Even though it needed a bit of fettling, it was a damn sight better fit than that!
Gav
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I think Pete might be right. Sounds like you've got a problem with the felt channel and its jamming. The felt insert eventually wears out. Try a small mirror (I use an old powder compact mirror donated by my wife) and have a look.
Gav
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Pat, If you converted from Rotoflex donuts to CV Driveshafts you can use the original top mounts on the chassis and thus 'standard' length shocks. You only needed the top mount bolt- on adapter brackets if you retain roto driveshafts. The brackets move the shock top mounts out to clear the donut. I have recently done this on my Vit MK 2. I initially put the Gaz shocks from the club on, but found them way too hard, even at min setting. I reused a pair of Konis ( specced for Vit Mk 1) that we're still in good nick. It gives a nice compliant ride.
Gav
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Many years ago I bought a laminated screen from Canley Classics. I'm not sure if they still do them - it's a very 'slow moving part'. If not try Rimmers maybe?
Gav
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Canley Classics used to stock stainless nuts. Not sure if they still do.
Gav
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I see that Demon Tweeks sell new Girling Master Cylinders and some Slave cylinders too. Some look suitable for our cars.
Gav
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I think the bit on the left might be a Vit MK 2 Front grill mounting bar?
Gav
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I wonder if the blue herald's had a bash on the bonnet? The headlight wiring loom is covered in blue paint as is the headlight bowl.
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Phil
Forgot to add - clear lacquer it afterwards. Looks much better and lasts better too.
Gav
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Hi Phil,
I did mine Triumph Wheel Silver - which I think is what the factory did. Looks correct to me.
Gav
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Ok. The ballot is now closed. I'll go for Silent Coat inside and out. Thanks all!
Gav
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Evening all,
Sorry to bring this up again, but I've been following the various threads about this for some time and want to fit the best cost effective solution. I've got a Vit convertible, so I'm not so bothered about keeping heat out. I'm more interested in transmission/engine noise insulation.
The original hardboard cover was in very poor condition, I tried to repair it with fibreglass matting/resin years ago,but it wasn't very successful, so I bought a fibreglass tunnel cover. It needed a lot of work to get it fitting ok. Thr original bagged insulation was knackered and not fit to re-use. So I got some white foam wadding from an upholsterer's, which I thought was a suitable substitute, and put this into bags and stuck to the inside of the tunnel. I also glued a bubble section rubber seal around the edges.
Over time, I've come to the conclusion that the foam wadding is not the right thing for the job and the fibreglass cover transmits more noise thorough it than the hardboard one did.
So to achieve airborne noise insulation do I use something like 2mm SilentCoat on the inside of the tunnel and even the outside? Or do I find some closed cell foam sheet about 25mm thick and stick that to the inside of the tunnel?
Opinions please !
Gav
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I knocked out the Square head bolt and fitted spire nuts to the edge of the lamp fitting hole in the bonnet. Then just use a self tapper in place of the bolt. Saves wrecking your back trying to reach the nut inside the bonnet.
Gav
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That's a Gaz shock. It should be adjustable with the knurled knob at the bottom. Most people find that setting click 2 or 3 is hard enough. I think it will go up to 12 or so. You'll break your teeth on any more than 3!
Gav
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I remember years ago replacing the door aperture seals on my Herald. The supplier assured me that they were correct. They were a bubble section with the furflex bit attached. They were useless - too thick. I couldn't shut the doors without slamming them so hard I was scared the windows would break!
I think I tracked down the original style aperture seals many years ago - new old stock. They don't have a bubble section, but have a flexible lip attached which compresses more easily- see pics. I have a vague memory of someone saying that Triumph 2000 Mk 1 seals were the same? I'm not aware that any supplier currently stocks the exact type anymore.
Gav
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Bearing in mind how many water leaks early Heralds had, my understanding is that several mods were introduced to help seal water leaks. I wonder if these weren't added to the parts manual. My Vit convertible has P seals and I'm the second owner. It was very original when I bought it. My previous 13/60 saloon also had them.
Gav
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Dave and Pete are correct, you should have a P section seal glued to the rear of the windscreen frame from the top of the quarterlight and down to where the door shell sticks forward above the hinge. The P section should butt up against the door aperture seal as an extra seal. I think on saloons it extended along the top of the quarterlight too, but not on convertibles. If someone can't post a pic I'll try and take a pic of mine.
Gav
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Daft Question
in Braking System
Posted
Just rx'd the Mintex Ceratec grease to fit Mintex 1144 pads. I've never used it before. Is it supposed to look like Gen Purpose Grease? Just want make sure I haven't bought fake stuff!🤨