Steve P Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 So finally begun stripping off the front suspension on my 13/60 which i believe to be original (apart from the springs),it`s all knackered. Found weird wear in the turret top, i have seen the spring top plates which wear oval but not like this. Is it useable?. Also how do i get the stub axle out? do i need a press?. I`m fitting trunnionless uprights once it`s cleaned and rebuilt. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 That's weird, and very severe wear. With the top plate held in by the three bolts there's no way anything should move so far as to gouge holes in the actual turret. Something is seriously wrong with that side of the suspension. Are there any witness marks on the shock? The turret is still usable, as when an undamaged top plate is refitted the shock will be supported in the middle and not touch that part again. The metal round the bolt fixings is as thick as it should be. For the stub axle, replace the nut on the rear a few turns and whack it with a hammer, it may drop out, but a bit of heat round the upright will also help loosen things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 not seen that wear before , is it due to the shocker top plate shifting around ??? yes a press to remove the stub axle , some heat on the upright can help as the expansion will air release of the taper they can be very tight Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 And thats on top of the turret! The shock would have to flap around so much to do that damage it would be undriveable - it almost looks like its been machined.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 No marks on the shock,but the top plate is knackered, see below. The top plate was secured and couldn`t move. On the hub, i have never stripped one, i removed the castellated nut on the front, and the four bolts holding the disc on, what do i whack?. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 Looks like the shock top nut wasnt done up or the rubber bush had disintegrated so allowing the threaded rod to move around then once misaligned could the top washer have been bashing up and down on the top of the turret? Would have made a lot of noise and mangled the washer😮 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2022 Report Share Posted June 28, 2022 1 hour ago, Steve P said: what do i whack?. if thats to remove the stub axle remove the nut on the back of the upright and then give threaded end of the stub a good crack to release it from the upright its a tight tapered fit so never easy its a must to protect the soft thread if you expect to re use the spindle but many are badly bruised getting it out and they are now scrap pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2022 Going to get a friend of mine with a 20 tonne press to take it apart for me. What are peoples opinions on replacing the steering rack with a new one?, the one on the car is original and the speedo shows 85k miles which i believe to be correct. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 30, 2022 Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 many sell one rack fits all herald has a faster rack than vitesse they identify the input shaft on the 6 cyl rack with a small additional groove machined in the input splines in general the racks wear well you can adjust the rack damper by removing shims and the inner sphericals can also be tightend with shims all quite DIY the passenger side rack tube bush can alto be replaced under the passenger side rack mount is a small plastic plug ( fits in a hole in the tube ) to stop rack rattle on rough surfaces many are missing if you fit alloy mounts you need to add a hose clip to retain it its probably better to do your own known rack than buy someones idea of a recon with nice paint job by design there will be more free play 1/2 a turn from ahead so getting track rods equal lengths to keep the the rack tighter in straight ahead is best Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted July 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2022 More questions for the collective on my front suspension rebuild... I`m tempted by Rimmers "Uprated" hub and stub axle kit, as i am fitting trunnionless uprights. Thoughts?. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RL1684 Also i have 4 pot callipers going on, they came with red stuff pads from EBC, i prefer Mintex but on the box it says they fit Vauxhall Astra,Nova and Carlton, i wonder if i can get Mintex for them?. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-1591301BCC Also i discovered on my shelf a set of Herald discs, they are grooved and drilled,no idea where they came from, what are peoples experience of these please?. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 2, 2022 Report Share Posted July 2, 2022 grooved and drilled are said to be noisy of little benefit to normal use , grooves and holes are supposed to let gas escape really!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 2, 2022 Report Share Posted July 2, 2022 Well Ive found as youre slowing from 200mph to 30 to take the Fairmount hairpin at the Monaco F1 circuit this can happen🤥 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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