Johnc Posted October 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Thanks Johny - I put 4-5 skirts from a trigger style oil can into the cylinder, I will re test with some more. Pete the head has new valve guides. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 good so now youre homing in on .....wallet time Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Check and double check though before any more expenditure😮Faulty gauge, leaking head gasket, cracked block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Double check that the valves on No. 3 cylinder are opening and closing. If a cam is worn or the rockers are badly adjusted, you will suffer compression loss. Sadly, if all is well with the top end it looks like a ring problem or a porous piston. That requires head and sump removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnc Posted October 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2022 Update Having double checked everything again and still coming up with the same answers, I realised that whilst the thought of taking cylinder 3 out with the engine still in the car and the car in the drive seemed like a good idea (cheap) it was not going to be. The engine is now out and returned to the engineer who built the head. It’s stripped down and the rings on cylinder 3 fell out as the piston was removed. Initial inspection shows that everything is tired and bordering on worn out. So an easy decision has been made to completely recon the engine - cylinder bore, new pistons, camshaft, timing chain and sprockets, and oil pump, existing crank re grind and balanced along with the pulley, flywheel and clutch. I have spoken to Newmans ref the cam and it’s a toss up between the PH1 or PH2- the car has an SU HIF44 carb on a dolly inlet manifold and a stainless extractor exhaust manifold straight piped to an R1 box. Does anyone have any experience with the PH1 cam in a 1300 Herald, is it happy in normal driving about town or does it need loads of revs to be happy? Oil pump - whilst i’ve had no problem with the existing oil pump is there a source of good quality ne pumps and is there any real benefit to fitting a 1500 pump? thanks in advance for your help John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 19, 2022 Report Share Posted October 19, 2022 Check the clearances of the pump as per manual to know its condition... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 21, 2022 Report Share Posted October 21, 2022 On 19/10/2022 at 22:28, Johnc said: I have spoken to Newmans ref the cam and it’s a toss up between the PH1 or PH2- the car has an SU HIF44 carb on a dolly inlet manifold and a stainless extractor exhaust manifold straight piped to an R1 box. I’d chose the PH1 with that inlet setup. No 13/60 experience, but on a TR6 with EFI (rather different I realise) it idles like a clock at 600 rpm and pulls hard from 1000 rpm. It’s mild timing (less duration that a mk3 Spit cam) with a bit more lift and will be very tractable. You will loose a bit of bottom end with the PH2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnc Posted October 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2022 Thanks Nick and Johny PH1 it is then - my gut feeling was for the PH1 but it’s good to have confirmation. I will check the oil pump next time i’m over at the workshop. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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