MIG Torch: Hand positions. Thoughts?

[chrishawley]

Just a couple of ideas here, hopefully to compare with the experiences of others.

Basic question. How does one hold a MIG torch under various situations?

Image #1 is what I'd call the Darth Vader/Light Sabre grip. Commonly illustrated in various materials but can't see that it ever provides stable control of the tip.

Image #2 is what I've found myself adopting for use on thinner materials (0.8 - 2.0 mm). That's with the shroud itself supported on the non-dominant hand or even using a crooked finger around the shroud and with that hand secured on a fixed point. Assumes proper quilted MIG gloves and not mechanics gloves as in photos'.

But then there's cicumstances where restricted space dictates single handed welding. I've struggled with this but recently happened upon a 'Britain Needs You' grip. With the index finger lying along the shroud and the switch is operated with the little finger. (image #3). At least provides some directional control.

That's just some ideas, for better or worse. Any other, different or better, ideas?

[JohnD]

All are "corrrect", if they do the job for you!   Welding is not ballet, with Position 1, 2, 3 etc, and the Master's cane on your ankles (or in this case, wrists) if you get it wrong!

I usually use a position with my left hand on the work - I'm right handed - steadying the right that holds the torch in a pistol grip.  But whatever suits the work, and you.   I fear your No.2 position puts even a protected hand too close to the weld for safety.

 

Having said that you can't be criticised, may I 'suggest'?   The welds above are a tad "bird-shit"?   And you refer to thin panels, always difficult.     Try to keep the volts down as far as you can, and go for short, but continuous welds, about an inch at a time (2.5cms!), move to another part of the seam, another short weld, move on.   Idea is to allow the panel to keep cool where you're welding.    Just trying to help!

Good luck!

John

[Bfg]

I tend to use your second example, steadying the torch head. But I keep my fingers away from the end of the shroud. I don't wear gloves usually and that metal gets hot.

Pete

[ahebron]

I agree with John, whatever works to get the job done and is comfortable, as we all know theory is great till it comes to working on old cars.
I know these are just demo photos but those gloves look a bit melty to me, a few sparks and your hands will covered in little red burn marks.
A good pair of leather gloves are great for welding in.

What is the vehicle and why was the panel cut off then reattached?

 

[chrishawley]

Yup, just demo photos', suitably staged to provide a view of hand position. So happens, it's a mate's project and is a lower front door repair section on a T2 camper which has gone pretty pear-shaped. The repair section was not well pressed, copious wax on the inside of the parent metal and after the first few tack welds the joddled edge recieved a liberal shooshing with primer. Theory meets reality!!!

But returning to positioning; I suppose a related matter is the distance of the shroud off the work and how tight up for for different circumstances. It's been suggested to me that for thin metal the correct distance is with the shroud actually resting on the work. Hmm, not so sure about that. Then there's the 'spot weld' shrouds. Helpful/not helpful?

All very subjective, but most helpful to exchange some thoughts.

[Ian Foster]

Chris I came across this video by Edd China a few days ago. It would probably cover your questions.

One thing I did pick up was the direction of weld ref the angle of the torch, which is different for MIG and TIG. MIG moving right to left as per your photos. 

Ian