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Spitfire gearbox overhaul


Jonah

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if its baulking i suggest the clutch may not be fully clearing   

check a re bleed , push the piston back in as far as it will goe to reduce cylinder capacity when bleeding

it will pump back out witha few pedal strokes when done ,  and bleed nipple must be uppermost above the feed pipe

Pete

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that might mean a look at the detent plunger springs etc  and the springs in the 1st/2nd  sliding hub sleeve 

there are different length springs  3/4th  to 1/2nd           but as  1/2nd has the longest  so that mix up doesnt suit 

do make sure the remote is not fouling up some how its common for the lower bolt to be back to front but that affects 3rd  not 2nd 

how is 1st is that ok  as that eliminates the sleeve spring idea 

did you strip out the top cover and all the shafts and forks  ????

Pete

 

Edited by Pete Lewis
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With engine off you could try pushing the lever down as if going for reverse but pull it back for second and see if this makes it any easier. Im just wondering if the reverse stop plate is pushing the lever over a little so making it difficult for the selector to enter its slot correctly.

If you select second then come out back to neutral is it then easier to go back into second?

 

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That’s interesting Johny, I’ve taken the remote off and I can see that the reverse adjustment screw was wearing hard against the housing and preventing proper selection of 3rd

I’ll adjust the screw now and refit to see if it’s made any difference

julian 

 

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Despondent Spitfire Driver

after a longer drive this morning none of my adjustments have worked 

now that it’s warmed up I can’t get second at all even with a lot of grunt

also the speedo no longer works!

on the upside the overdrive now works well

I’m sensing the gearbox will have to be pulled again 

any thoughts chaps?

despondent Julian 

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It might not be that bad and only need the gear lever extension cover removing to see whats happening. Hopefully its the selector not going into the second gear slot but of course not easy to see why once the assembly is lifted off. When you have access the gear change can be operated with a suitably sized bar used instead of the selector and if the resistance is still present you'll have to remove the top cover. Then you should be able operate the actual synchroniser hub with a strong hand (the manual says 8.6 - 9.5kg of load should move it) while watching whats happens to the gears.... 

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It could be bent or something obstructing its correct path. However given the history it does seem likely theres a problem with the gearbox internals and Im not sure if a synchro hub installed incorrectly could explain whats going on...

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Yes I tried it but no difference

after the test drive I can’t get it into 2nd at all

i wondered if it’s the second gear synchro hub causing the problem, the synchro ring itself was completely worn away 

Julian 

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I can see a worn hub giving poor gear changes but not to completely prevent them however I seem to remember somebody putting one in the wrong way round. Did you dismantle the 1/2 hub to inspect its centering balls and springs inside?

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When I dismantled the gearbox the synchro hub exploded several times but seemed to go back together ok with all the all bearings and springs 

After reinstalling I was able to get into second gear before the test drive albeit with a great deal of hard pull from first gear, but now it won’t 

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The outer sleeve went back on the inner hub the right way round? It'll fit perfectly either way but of course when you put the assembled unit back on the shaft the inner is positioned incorrectly. Workshop manual has great section diagram that shows it all....

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Heres the 1/2 sychro hub Im talking about. You can see the inner hub where the ball and spring sit isnt symetrical so the outer sliding sleeve can look correct but inside its wrong. In fact once in place its very difficult to verify this. Anyway first things first.... 

image.png.6808fd3463bc808270ac6fa1209dc038.png

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