Vitesse, fitting timing cover.

[Phil C]

Afternoon all,

Is there a knack to refitting the timing cover in-situ? 
With the engine face vertical and the water pump in place I’m struggling! 

Is it possible for the cover to fit if the tensioner is not in the correct place?

ie can I be confident all is well once the cover is fitted?

thanks

Edited May 18, 2023 by Phil C

[Colin Lindsay]

It would be easier with the water pump housing removed, you can see the upper part then and align as necessary. You need to move the tensioner out over the chain otherwise the cover will never close, so you'll know if it's not right. I use an old very thin and long screwdriver with the last 3/4 inch bent at right angles in a vice to slip under the cover and pull the tensioner out of the way. A bit of oil round the crank seal will also help it slide on. You may also have to give it a thump or two to get the studs to fit through. If it's flush to the block then there's no chance of anything being crushed or caught inside, it won't fit otherwise.

[johny]

Ideally the cover should be put on with the steel sleeve the seal runs on removed. Then the sleeve can put on the crank afterwards using its tapered edge to slide through the seal in the correct direction...

[chrishawley]

Ditto above. I learnt the hard way that fitting the timing recover really does require removal of the water pump. WIth pump in situ it means that the TC has to be offered up at an angle which means that the lip of the seal tends to get nipped and damaged on the crankshaft nose (= leaks) . With pump removed, and TC offered up square, the tensioner can be hooked over the chain with minimal force with any suitable right angled implement.

Yup, and if it goes on it's right: If it doesn't go on it's wrong.

P.S. Once fitted in place be gentle with the bolts and setscrews. Oh so easy to strip thread.

[JohnD]

In fact two ways.  1/ with the oil seal collar in place, chamfered edge OUT, and 2/ without the collar,insert it later, chamfered edge IN.

And a strong wire hook to pull back the timing chain tension spring, is a big help.  The sort of wire they used to make coat hangers from!

John

[Phil C]

Thanks all.

I agree would be easier with the pump removed but was hoping to avoid that. The manual suggests it is possible with it in place and mentions a “tool” to hold back the tension spring but the photo is such a bad repro to be illegible!

Collar out should provide a little more movement? 

Confirmation that if the cover seats correctly the tension spring will be correctly engaged is a comfort!! Thanks again 
 

[johny]

11 hours ago, JohnD said:

In fact two ways.  1/ with the oil seal collar in place, chamfered edge OUT, and 2/ without the collar,insert it later, chamfered edge IN.

And a strong wire hook to pull back the timing chain tension spring, is a big help.  The sort of wire they used to make coat hangers from!

John

Trouble with method one youre still pressing the seal lip over the sleeve in the wrong direction. Ok the chamfer helps but not optimum...

[JohnD]

Here's the tool, or my version.    Dimension A depends on Singlex or Duplex chain and spring width:

[Colin Lindsay]

One I made earlier from a kitchen skewer, works well on the Herald:

 

[Phil C]

All back together now - using a piece of coat hanger as suggested.

thanks again.

[JohnD]

In another place, one "Rutty" cam up with this idea:

Never used that myself, but it's brilliant!

JOhn

[Colin Lindsay]

9 minutes ago, JohnD said:

In another place, one "Rutty" cam up with this idea:

Never used that myself, but it's brilliant!

JOhn

It is!!! Like all great ideas, simple when you think of it.

[Phil C]

I agree! 
….next time.