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GT6 Engine Return Basics


AidanT

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Johny - how close is your downpipe to the underneath of the car ? Mine seems to drop down quite a bit so may be coming up to the manifold at the wrong angle

 

TIA 

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If its laying on the ground then the flanges wont line up correctly. Its need to be roughly in position ie running close to propshaft and exitting close to rear valance. Its nice to get it tucked up as high as possibly to avoid speed humps. Heres the manual drawing and bracket 6 should attach to just after the gearbox main case...

  image.png.bcee8e75e191dced26596d75119a609b.png

 

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I was just looking at that on canleys site. I don't have that bracket no 6 fitted and never did! So that's what missing.

Do you where under the car that attaches to? - pic elllwpuld be good

I'm sure if that was fitted it would change all the angles. It's not the first thing I've  found missing from the car tbh !!

TIA

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Great, thanks once more for your help. Will add to the shopping list  - think I already have a clamp so just need to get the bracket!

All a good lesson in figuring stuff out. I looked at my manual but it only has pics of the vitesse  - I know its probably the same but the pics are very poor.

Looking at the bracket I might have a go to produce my own

 

 

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Yes the bracket is just a twisted piece of flat metal with two holes.

There seems to be two versions of the free download manual with one being more Vitesse focussed and the other GT6 although the original paper version covered both. There are quite big differences in a limited number of areas...

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Its curtesy of vitessesteve.co.uk although your browser might not like the site its ok to download. Unfortunately I think thats the more Vitesse focussed version as its missing some of the GT6 info but is still very useful for both models...

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Posted (edited)

Well guys

That was really odd. Made up a new bracket with a 45 degree twist. Put the car up on ramps for access. Put my Jack underneath the down pipe to hold it, checked the position on the manifold once more AND IT WAS SITTING PERFECTLY!!!

Put the bracket in anyway along with an exhaust  clamp I had sitting about (one of those boxes with every conceivable item!!!)

So done... except I've lost those bl**dy special clamp washers grrrrrr

Aidan 

Edited by AidanT
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Posted (edited)

So  all going back together slowly now  but I have another question. I read that you need to prime the oil pump. How is this best done, I've not fitted the dizzy yet so there's access to the top 

TIA

Edited by AidanT
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"Priming the oil pump" ISN'T driving it with a drill to fill up the oil ways!

"Priming the pump" means filling the pump with something that isn't air, because air is compressible and the pump may just bounce it back and forth rather than  propelling it forward into the engine.   Pouring oil into the pump may not help, as it will soon drain out into the sump, so some people use a more viscous material.    I've read that Vaseline is the stuff, because where grease dissolves slowly in oil  and lumps of it will be pumped into the oilways, Vaseline dissolves quickly and easily.

If you want to fill the engine with oil before a first start, go ahead as described above, but remember, the distributor and oil pump rotate ANTICLOCKWISE!

Even if you do run the pressure up with a drill, this can only be done with the distributor removed.    Installing it will allow time for much of the oil to drain back into the sump.


AND, in my experience both of these are unnecessary and the first risky!      Before going for the first start after a rebuild, take out or don't fit, the spark plugs and turn the engine over on the starter motor, with the fuel pump disconnected or turned off.   If you use Graphogen, and a high zinc cam lube then while there is no compression, there will be little stress on the main, big and little end bearings and the assembly lube will be perfectly adequate.      Yes, it can take a little while to get oil pressure, especially if you have an oil cooler, so a fully charged battery, or else jump leads from a running vehicle will do the job.   Reinstalling the plugs is quick and you can then go for a start in confidence that the oil ways are already full. 

John

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Yes and its not just distributor out but also the pedestal and drive gear which is locked by the camshaft gear:

image.png.52a112212c79c8d1235fcaacd19cb86f.png

Then you need to make up something to engage with the tang on end of the oil pump shaft...

As John says the problem is the pump cant pump air very well so needs to be filled but I think if its been assembled well its body should be sealed and any oil you get into it will just sit inside ready to start pumping. This is because when you look at the pump both its inlet and outlet come in from the top which is a clever design to always keep it filled👍

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20240608_131829.thumb.jpg.5bdbfd096884be66499a442ddcb0b098.jpgThanks all, the pump was put back with assembly oil,  so I will turn it over and see.

Next question guys. The crank pully on this replacement engine from a mk2 vitesse is smaller than my original so the current fan belt it too big.

My current is a 1150, what would be the next size down? 

 

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The size for a mk2 vitesse is 1125 according to the suppliers but you might be best to measure the true distance with cord as dynamo/alternator fitment can make a difference...

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Thx Johny

I've done that, but the belt size is an outside diameter.

I'm not sure how to convert my 1000 to 1050 mm measurement. These are based on the available adjustment with the alternator

Cheers

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Posted (edited)

I think it would be difficult with the adjustment bracket I have.

As 1100 will be mid range on the adjustment bracket  it seems the best option.

Thx

Edited by AidanT
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Posted (edited)

I'll get a Gatec 10mm width V belt, same make as the one I've just cut! Seem pretty good quality 

Aidan 

Edited by AidanT
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