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Trunnion threads


Adrian

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from the manual its LH to the LH side and RH to the RH side, RH has a reduced diameter to identify it as RH

 

says screw fully in then unscrew to 'its first working position'   assume this would be just enough to allow turns on full locks.

 

I love triumph manuals they often  only give you half a clue and often miss the small bit of detail you search for to nip the bud

 

Pete

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I thought the different shapes were only early factory fitted ones. The last set I replaced were 20 years old and externally identical. Unusually, they were solid brass, they didn't have the press in metal bottoms like the new one had.

 

But as Pete says LH to LH side RH to RH side, you've just got to figure out which side is which! :lol:

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That's great chaps.

 

Left thread to left side of car and right thread to right side.

 

It's really useful to gather peoples opinions whilst delving into the depths of Triumph ownership - I just hope I can get the bearings fitted without too much trouble!

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Yes left as viewed from the driving position. Just a point of clarity when I said original I meant the ones I'd taken off the car. With regard to bearings basically renewing the front bearings. I have the jigsaw cv upgrade so will be doing the rear ones soon ( hope the hassle with the end float isn't too bad!).

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Adrian, You haven't said what car you've got so I don't know what wheel bearings you have. I have a GT6 and they have tapered front wheel bearings. You do the wheel nut up finger tight till they don't knock when you rock the wheel. Then back off one flat on the castellated nut and put the split pin in. I had an MOT fail when set up like this despite it being correct by the workshop manual. These days I tighten them up before the MOT and slacken them off straight away after.

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its because they are modern (well not that modern)  and front bearings are cassette double row with no float,  the taper bearings used on 60/70 floatng hubs must have some small end float to take care of the high heat transfer from the brakes , if you eliminate the 0.002" -0.008" float you will very quickly heat and seize the small outer race to the stub axle shaft and then have a very expensive cant take it to bits repair on your hands   0.008" gives a lot of rock   4mm  at the wheel but its within spec 

 

all bearings of this design should be a hand pressure fit on the shafts and able to rotate on the shaft, this also spreads the wear and load around the inner race

the D holes washer stops any effect on the castle nut and later designs in the 70s would just use a nyloc nut no split pin

 

so any polishing on the back of the washer due to a rotating inner race is correct ,  

 

too tight = seizure

too loose = pad push back or poor shoe adjustment

 

dont fill the hub cavity with grease it holds the heat and does nothing for lubrication,  just squidge grease firmly into the rollers is all thats needed.

 

Pete

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