Puglet1 Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 I have now picked up a whirling sound when going around right hand bends. Was first noticed about 1000miles ago when returning from France. It was present before I fitted my new differential so I think that can be safely discounted. My guess is it’s going to be the Left hand rear wheel bearing but will do both sides as a matter of precaution . What do you guys reckon? Is likely to fail on me in the short term or do I need to get it sorted now? Is it best to use Timkin bearings and if so, are they still available? Would anyone happen to know the part numbers and the best place to source them? I guess I’m going to need a specific hub puller, DTI gauge and stand. Is this the type of kit that can be rented OR can anyone suggest where I can get this repair done in the South west / 3 Counties/ Midlands area? I can remove the rear rotoflex driveshaft assemblies myself if it make it easier for an experienced person to do the bearing replacement. Finally, my rotoflex assemblies are perfectly serviceable at the moment and I am nervous about changing to cv type shafts due to a few concerns that some people have experienced with them. Any opinions? Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 Unless caught early,, you risk damage to the half shaft, so do it ASAP! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted May 23 Author Report Share Posted May 23 Thanks John. Looks like I’m off the road again 🙁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 Dont forget gents this is Rotaflex so half shafts shouldnt be a problem. The manual is pretty good Pete describing the job.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 In fact Im surprised the bearings are noisy as it looks a pretty robust set up (stronger than the first type) although I understand the set up of the preload shims is very important for longevity... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 I would say it isnt an urgent job as noisy taper rollers can go on for a long time although its a pity there doesnt seem any way to get a bit more grease to them☹️ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 Before you dismantle anything, I would jack up and place on stands. Check for free play of the bearings as per the front bearings.You should barely feel any play, if any,by hand,at all. As you have rotoflex the bearing end float is set by a selectable thickness spacer and or a max of 2 x 0.003 shims. The workshop manual end float spec is very small 0.0005 -0.0025". Any play? Compare it with the other side as a rough guide to start. The hub is located on splines and a non-taper drive shaft, so any decent puller will do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 This might help . I used this article to change the rear bearings on my Vitesse . https://www.canleyclassics.com/?archive=rear-end-noises . My level of competence is amateur Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 On 23/05/2024 at 17:55, johny said: I would say it isnt an urgent job as noisy taper rollers can go on for a long time although its a pity there doesnt seem any way to get a bit more grease to them☹️ Hi johny. Here’s my luck…..Curiosity got the better of me about the wheel bearing free play so I jacked the car up to check it. At that point I noticed that the hub nut looked new so I decided to slacken it off. I removed the nut completely only to find that the previous owner had stripped the threads completely so it’s now become an urgent job whether I like it or not. The good news is I’ve managed to locate a new old stock outer half shaft. I intend to replace the bearings with Timken ones but can’t order them until I remove the old ones and get the numbers off them. Anyway, as you say, “the manual is pretty good at describing the job” so ………here goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 Puglet, Rimmers stock Timken bearings. More expensive but..... Gav 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 Oh well interesting job. Will you get a selection of shims at the same time as the bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 Shims- yes, have x2 0.003 shims on their way. Hoping that original ones are close but if not I’ll still have the option of 0.003 or 0.006”. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 be prepared for a bit of trials its easy to get it too much or not enough , , how will you measure the end float ??? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 Hi Pete. As far as I can see there are two ways to measure the end float (correct me if I’m wrong) . 1: Using a block and feeler gauge. 2: Using a DTI gauge. Which method would you suggest using? Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 yes ha ! either is a good start any variance to the spec is with taper bearing of the unlubricated (unlike the diff.) design its best to have more free play than any preload . Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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