martyn wright Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 (edited) Hi! I have checked that the wire's fm the tank at back match the front gauge wires! I have T = g/b tank B = g battery Looking at black Earth where on the gauge would be best ? Am I supposed to contact to the spades or nuts below? As the spades are all connected? Edited August 24 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 24 Report Share Posted August 24 yes you have to use the centre fixing like this one being calibrated here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 So the spades are for the connection, which are both connected inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 24 Report Share Posted August 24 Thats it yours has spade connectors for B and T. The other nuts arent insulated and are the adjustable mountings for the the coils inside that you use to calibrate the reading of the gauge needle. You can see in this pic, move one coil closer and it pulls the moving iron more and vice versa. Lovely.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 All new to me lol? For test purposes I have the New Sender outside the Tank with the connector wires conected? I will then lift the arm of the sender up(simulating A full tank of fuell) to see what the dial on fuel gauge does? It has previously gone to empty when lifted up and, up to Full fuel when down to bottom of tank? The gauge has been fitted back into the Dash with the Black earth from the Centre! Waiting for the Battery to charge before I Start? WHATCH THIS SPACE!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 No wonder you got rid of it Peter! My 1600/6 was found in a Barn at Totnes, Devon! I found it when I was on duty back in 1998? It hasnt been on the road since 1985, but needed total Retso! Moved back to Wales in 2005/6 and the car went up my cousins in Hereford, where it stayed for 10years! Now almost finished it? but stupid little things are testing me at present Lol! Only just found out that the clocks are Non Stablised not like the 2ltr Mk1 and Mk2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 (edited) Well Johny! It isnt working at all know? I will have to try the other Gauge tomorrow? Good job I left the front seats out to gain easier access? But I had to anyway as they where the wrong way around! Edited August 24 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 24 Report Share Posted August 24 oh dear so power on and needle doesnt even flick? Definitely got 12v to earth on the green wire to the gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 (edited) It's got to be the gauge? I have found another at Triumphspitfire spares Tavistock as it is the same as a Herald 1200? Steve Morris? Not doing anymore until I fitted that one? Non stabilised gauge? Edited August 24 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 24 Report Share Posted August 24 Oh no how many gauges is that now Ive lost count😲 Its true that connecting to T and B the wrong way round might not do them any good but are you sure the power is actually reaching the gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 Had 2 seperate wires from the gauge wires to the 2 wires on the Tank and there was power! The one gauge has non stablising and the other has Stabalising! As of this moment I cant remember which one is on the dash?? I think its the non one? so Ive put the original one back on, can always check the other again tomorrow Ha! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 25 Report Share Posted August 25 you just cannot mix and no match stabilised and non stabilised units both are totally incompatible with each other the 6 would originally be moving iron non stabilised units its easy to tell stabilised takes a while for needles register ,slow moving needles moving iron non stabilised fly straight up to a reading and tend to wag about while driving on bumps pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 (edited) Okay! I'm back? On friday(last page 3) I put back on the original? Gauge which hasn't worked! I turned it to its side and back and the white clock dial swing arm just flopped back and forth? Is it supposed to do that or is it broken? Cos on the other dial the swing arm is sold and doesn't move at all?(see pic of second gauge) believed to be from a mk1 vitesse? Edited August 26 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 No putting the gauge in if it's not the right one(non stabilised) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 26 Report Share Posted August 26 Am I right in saying that if the needle flops about as the gauge is moved with no power connected , it's non-stabilised, but if it doesn't move at all it's stabilised? I know the way they move when connected ie straight to reading, or slow move along the scale, points to their respective use, but what about when unpowered? I'm coming late to this thread, haven't been following it so will probably duplicate many earlier answers, but your 6-hole gauge in earlier photos is marked 12v. That's unstabilised, later ones had no voltage marking at all and were 10 volt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 Hi Colin! Yes! The tank sender is non stabilised? I purchase a new old stock one from FITCHITT last week? As I was told the Sender had packed up? To match the Jaeger fuel non stabilised gauge! Now I have no life the gauge but have power at the 2 gauge wires and at the 2 wires at the tank. Took off the gauge and shook it back and forth and the clock arm just flopped back and forth? So thought it might be broken? So looking for a Herald 1200 gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 (edited) So the one in the pictures is a mk1 145700 is a Stabilised ! Anyone got at same face non stabilised 1600/6 or Herald 1200 one for sale ?? Please! Edited August 26 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 26 Report Share Posted August 26 On 24/08/2024 at 14:43, johny said: Floppy needle is good because as you can see in the previous picture its the coils in a non stabilised gauge either side that pull the moving iron of the needle to one side or the other only when theres power. A stabilised gauge uses a bimetallic strip that bends when heated to pull the needle away from a spring so its needle is fixed when theres no power. The part number for one of the first type is 131437 and it'll have two extra nuts on the back which attach and allow adjustment of the coils you can see.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 26 Report Share Posted August 26 4 hours ago, martyn wright said: Hi Colin! Yes! The tank sender is non stabilised? I purchase a new old stock one from FITCHITT last week? As I was told the Sender had packed up? To match the Jaeger fuel non stabilised gauge! Now I have no life the gauge but have power at the 2 gauge wires and at the 2 wires at the tank. Took off the gauge and shook it back and forth and the clock arm just flopped back and forth? So thought it might be broken? So looking for a Herald 1200 gauge? So Martyn you had 12v at the green wire on the gauge terminal B, about 6v on terminal T (with tank sender disconnected) and the gauge casing well earthed (maybe run a temporary wire to earth?). If so the gauge should have shown full.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 26 Author Report Share Posted August 26 Will give it another go tomorrow if well enough! Thanks Johny! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 26 Report Share Posted August 26 Really hope gauge isnt knackered as they seem quite difficult to get hold of👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 26 Report Share Posted August 26 Were the connections to B and T the wrong way round at some stage with the power on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 Will give it another go tomorrow if well enough! Thanks Johny! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 Yes! On taking the gauge out an checking, the green wire to b, was the wrong way around? I changed them over g = b and gb to T. Fitted a new earth to the main body and this is what it shows: Ign On, with wires connected to Sender: 1/2 Full Disconnect Wires on Sender: Full Switch of ign: Full, Tap gauge and goes to Empty(sticking) Cheers Martyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 Sounding good! Just need to prove empty - the most important bit! The best would be to remove the sender and put it in the empty position but as I take it the tank is half full all you can do is short the two sender terminals together which should then give an empty reading. Note this isnt conclusive proof the gauge will read empty so be careful when out driving.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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