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Vitesse suspension geometry


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While changing front shock absorber top bushes I inspected the suspension for wear etc. The nearside trunnion has play so I'll be addressing that problem however I noticed there are five shims on the offside lower wishbone and three on the nearside?? I've always thought the offside looked as though it had more camber. I would also like to check the toe in. I like to do the work myself so it seems time to invest in a Trakrite and camber tool. I'll also check the rear wheel geometry and inspect the front hub/shaft/bearings.

The question is am I wasting my time until I change the trunnion(s) and top ball joint? I'm hoping the uprights are ok🤞

I could take it to a Triumph specialist but where's the fun in that!

Iain

PS.  Recommendations as to settings please.

 

Edited by Iain T
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42 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

are you saying we need to do geometry checks at shuttleworth  ???????????

Yes please 😁😁😂😂 I want value out of my ten quid!

I just found it odd why 2 more shims are one side. I suppose the PO could have set it up for oval track racing.....? 

Plenty of camber tools for sale and I might have found a cheapish Trakrite.

Iain

 

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I think more likely Iain is that the chassis came out of the factory a bit wonky (like a lot of stuff in those days) and needed odd shims to get everything correct. Worth checking though as anything could have happened in the meantime.... 

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It's only slight but he car has always turned in slightly better one way. Now I've, deep sigh, pretty much finished playing with the engine and drivetrain I'm concentrating on making the driving experience better.

Iain

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I've got a Trakrite if you want to borrow it when you return the spring compressor - and if you can get it to work you can then teach me, as I've never had any luck with it!

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trakrite  is very simple  it shows you the side slip on the tyre by just driving over it , no it wont do camber .

if the needle becomes disconnected or you drop it and the plastic rollers all move then its easy to 

refit and connect ,ive used one for around twenty years and have had a couple of mishaps easy to fix .

the Weaver plate i loaned out and never saw again was a brick shithouse  version , so heavy it was hardly portable

as with any geometry you need to start with a flat level floor.

and just drive carefully fully over the slip plate 

Pete

 

 

 

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For me it's wlays been; roll car over, see reading of say slight toe out reading, give track rods a 360 spin and retest...to get the same slight toe out reading, wind track rods till you can see a big toe in stood infront the car and retest...to ge the same slight toe out reading, put the Trakrite on the "Shelf of Shame" next to multiple different solo brake bleeders that don't work, etc.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Mjit said:

the "Shelf of Shame" next to multiple different solo brake bleeders that don't work, etc.

You can have my unused outside spring clamps to put on the Shelf of Shame!

There's a tyre place up the road with a Hunter 4 wheel alignment machine but I'm not sure if they can process a car that's not in the machines log. I'm going there tomorrow to ask as the owner is very helpful and has a crazy Cosworth powered MK1 Escort RS.

I've ordered a LH trunnion kit and top ball joint from Paddock today but they are out of stock of lower wishbone shims.

Iain

Edited by Iain T
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Posted (edited)

LH trunnion arrived from Paddock in less than 24 hours standard delivery 5*.

After I had finished playing with the front ride height I tackled the trunnion. A first for me but was easy to do. The old trunnion ran up and down but it felt like there was grinding paste for oil! I cleaned up the VL thread and checked the top ball joint which was fine. On threading the new trunnion it had more play than the old one?!? I thoroughly cleaned the old trunnion and half filled with EP90 and reused as the bushes also ok. Threading it on it felt nice smooth. What I did find was the felt seal had almost disintegrated but I had no option to repack the bearings and assemble. I backed off the castellated nut one flat and on fitting the wheel there is slight 3-9 movement and a bit more 6-12. The bearings felt ok and there was minimal marking on the stub axle but I can only assume there is some wear in both items. I will clean and re-oil the offside trunnion and order two felt seals.

Iain 

PS. Anyone want an unused LH trunnion......?

Edited by Iain T
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1 minute ago, Iain T said:

LH trunnion arrived from Paddock in less than 24 hours standard delivery 5*.

After I had finished playing with the front ride height I tackled the trunnion. A first for me but was easy to do. The old trunnion ran up and down but it felt like there was grinding paste for oil! I cleaned up the VL thread and checked the top ball joint which was fine. On threading the new trunnion it had more play than the old one?!? I thoroughly cleaned the old trunnion and half filled with EP90 and reused as the bushes also ok. Threading it on it felt nice smooth. What I did find was the felt seal had almost disintegrated but I had no option to repack the bearings and assemble. I backed off the castellated nut one flat and on fitting the wheel there is slight 3-9 movement and a bit more 6-12. The bearings felt ok and there was minimal marking on the stub axle but I can only assume there is some wear in both items. I will clean and re-oil the offside trunnion and order two felt seals.

Iain 

Not sure if the replacement felt seal issue has been sorted but they just didnt  fit . I ended up using the original seals 

Paul 

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Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Paul H said:

I ended up using the original seals 

Paul there's very little felt left and in some areas nothing at all. I read about the thick felt and the fix of oiling and squashing for a few days to sort the problem 

Iain

Edited by Iain T
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If this is the felt seal that goes at the very back of the hub and runs against the vertical link on its outer, felt side then I changed mine a couple of months ago...

  • As others report/has in my experience been the case for the last 25+ years the metal 'tray' the seal sits in was way too big to fit in the hub.  My solution was to carefully run a blade around between the 'tray' and base of the felt to cut the glue holding it in place and transfer the felt ring into my original 'tray'.
  • A new felt is way thicker than one that's been in use for god knows how many years but they compress a lot.  My approach was an overnight soaking in oil followed by 24hrs clamped in a vice (between 2 flat plates to spread the pressure evenly).

Those 2 combined gave me a sensible thickness felt seal that actually fitted into the hub.  Done 500 odd miles since and had to give the end float one nip already and waggling the wheels on the weekend suggests another nip might be required on the passengers side (movement more heard/seen than just felt).

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Posted (edited)

Yes that's the felt that's disappeared. Where did you buy yours from?

Update, I've ordered two from Chic Doig off Fleabay as delivery is included.

Iain

Edited by Iain T
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DIY toe in contraption. No ice cream in the spacer box 😋. Toe in was 3mm so I've set to parallel. I'll need to take it for a spin, any excuse, and recheck. 

I can do the same for the rears but how do I check for alignment with the fronts or I could crab down the road like an old mini!

 

IMG_20240819_164243516_HDR.jpg

IMG_20240819_164216968.jpg

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