Peter Truman Posted Tuesday at 06:38 Report Share Posted Tuesday at 06:38 As advised elsewhere I'm building up two spare Spitfire rear axle assemblies from diff to rear hub/wheel, I've had the axles annealed/teat treated to remove any directional memory to avoid torsional failure, I'm about to fit the outer rear hubs with new wheel studs to the assembled axle's, new UJ's, rear inner hub (new good quality bearings), Being worried about buckled rear hubs I've just had the hub faces checked, one is 0.008 of a mm out on the outer face, which we considered acceptable, the other 0.017 of a mm out, the latter we propose to skim so it's flat. a third one I had was 0.045 of a mm out a definite case of a 3 arm bearing puller being used, that too will be skimmed! What is the acceptable twist in the outer face of the rear hub, I've followed a supposed Concour quality Spit in the past where the wheel wobble of the wheel looked horrible, that in fact was a buckled wheel, new Minilite replica's fixed that. I would appreciate any members knowledge on what's acceptable? Thanks PeterT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted Tuesday at 09:04 Report Share Posted Tuesday at 09:04 to me its the sort of face that would have a std 0.005" runout tolerance same for any coupling flange Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted Tuesday at 10:58 Report Share Posted Tuesday at 10:58 If you can get the brake shoes adjusted nicely to the drum ie minimal intermittent rubbing (can be drum out of round as well so try both) then I think thats got to be a pretty good indicator of the condition of the set up.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted 19 hours ago Report Share Posted 19 hours ago Peter T more info on heat treating/annealing the axles please. I have a pile of axles in my shed that have been removed from hubs so no idea what side they are from. Thanks Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted 16 hours ago Report Share Posted 16 hours ago it involves heating to some temperature and cooling slowly well worth doing on any unknown shaft as many that shear have been fitted to a reversed side and the unwind creates a crack which propergates to a nice smooth failure but not for the driver or the car Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted 16 hours ago Report Share Posted 16 hours ago Id imagine its got to be done properly as uniform and not too soft - certainly dont want to lose hardness where the needle rollers run.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted 15 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 15 hours ago (edited) When discussing with the spring maker restorer we discussed not affecting the hardened bearing area I seem to remember he said heated to around 350/400 so it didn’t affect the hardening. A jag E type ownerI know has used him eons ago to recon the front torsion suspension to neutralise any torsional memory no problems to date He had a beautiful little red Honda S800 Coupe in restoring all the suspension, very interesting looking at the drive line and chain drives Edited 15 hours ago by Peter Truman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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