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Front Suspension Lowering


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Whilst I'm on the topic of suspension at the moment, I wanted to ask about lowering.

 

I would like to lower the front end of my car (1971 MK3 GT6) between 1" and 2" as it is way too high.

 

What is the best way to go about it?

 

Currently I have a set of GAZ ride adjustable shocks combined with who knows what springs. Is there anywhere that sells shorter springs?

 

Henry

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Go t,thees blokes, an get some decent springs

and can be powder coated to any colour ye like,

 

blak is standard, butt, want another shade, then they are done twice, so twice as much protectionee

 

for normal road use, go for 500

for sporty use, go for 650  or moer

 

500,s will be fine, esp as ye got adjustables

 

forget aboot any thing less. as it lets car float too much

D Faulkner Springs LLP

 

M

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Henry,

There must be hundreds, no thousands  of places that sell coil springs for performance cars.

For instance, Demon Tweeks, sell nearly 500 different springs of different lengths and stiffnesses, and that's just in one diameter from one manufacturer!

Don't go to DT - expensive - find a shop near you that sells them.

 

But you have adjustable shocks - is that stiffness adjustable, or height adjustable?  Is the a thread around the body of the shocker, with a ring on which the spring sits, so that you can turn the ring, lowering or raising the car?

You would need two "C-spanners" to do that adjustment.  They engage in notches in the ring.

 

If you don't have adjustable spring seats, then you need a shorter spring, BUT that spring must be stiffer too, or else a bump that would have done no harm, will let the car 'bottom' on the road.

The original GT6 springs were 220 "pounds/inch" in stiffness.  This means that a weight of 220lbs will compress the spring one inch.

To lower, typical values would be:

"Road Lowered" 330 lbs.in

"Sprint"               480

"Race"                650

 

The last will give a very hard ride indeed!

 

And do check that a fixed lower spring seat is at the correct height.    Many people in the past have been misled by dampers with too high a seat, sold as for Triumphs.    Seems unlikely that TRGB would sell such things.

John

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"Race"                650

 

The last will give a very hard ride indeed!...................

 

Sorry John, but it dont, they are just fine

 

The inclination of the Spring, dictates that a much stiffer spring is needed

as to a verticle  spring,

this also applies to a shocker,   set a shocker on an 40 deg angle to 8 clicks

now put it on a straight up position, and its alott lott moer hard.

 

this is why the Standard GT6 is way too soft up frunt

and even so wid 330-450 lbders too

 

 

 

M

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Thinking back, I ran theCC 440lb -1" springs on my vitesse for many years. That was an every day car (6-8k a year), and it never felt floaty but seemed to handle well (bearing in mind the poor weight distribution!) 

 

I have a spitfire now, and that is running 480lb springs. A touch firm for a daily driver, but not too bad. And helps with the cornering....

Personally (sorry Marcus) I would look at 450-550lb springs, And work out what fitted height you want and from that you should be able to calculate the "free length"

Using the data from above, about 880lb per spring, so a 440lb spring would be compressed by 2", a 500lb by 1.75 and so on...

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That all sounds like rather too much to choose from to me!

 

I've got ride or stiffness adjustable shocks on my car, not height adjustable. Looking at the photos on Rimmers of the height adjustable version of my shocks, if set to the lowest position they don't look much like they'd make the car any lower to me...

 

My car handles extremely well, and believe me, I push my luck sometimes! I don't want to ruin that, but it would look better an inch lower!

 

I noticed that Canley's sell one "F67 - FRONT SPRING - 330LB 1" LOWER" anyone tried these?.

 

Henry

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I'll dig out an old standard spitfire one and check the measurements, I believe they are the same.

 

Interesting thought about the camber and tracking, the answer is I don't really know. I think the tracking is good, I did it myself 2 years ago with string etc. and tyre wear has been good since, but camber, never really got round to doing that...

 

How much of a difference are we talking?

 

Henry

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I've got the car with me at work, so I'll pop out and measure the springs at some point. It might be possible that the wheels need pushing out at the bottom a bit. Need to have a good look on level ground to be sure.

 

There were some crude spacers and things, not matching on either side before I rebuilt the car, but now nothing but the spring in there. Shock absorber plate at the bottom is touching the spring, then theres the top plate on the sping which is bolted straight to the suspension turret.

 

Henry

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Okay, on the wishbones, I only have one shim per bracket on all four. I did, however, buy lots of them for when I got round to doing it properly, and they are all stainless so no rust issues. Adding shims would definitely work out a lot cheaper if that is what needs doing!

 

Henry

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You can do a basic check on camber using a spirit level and a bit of wood that is cut to length so it fits against the tyre rim (just inside from the edge)

 

A tiny bit of negative camber is ideal.

 

If you adjust camber it will put the tracking out. But easy to correct.

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Marcus - you are a harder man than me!   650Lb springs make for a harsh ride in SofS!

 

Henry - Don't be diverted by the talk of camber.

Camber is important, and adding more wishbone bracket spacers will produce more negative camber but not lower the car significantly.

Don't rely either on the original camber settings, which were for crossply tyres.    Modern radials with more flexible side walls benefit from some negative - one degree minimum, IMHO.

 

 

John

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