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Kangaroo petrol ?


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Hi,

My 1360 has developed a problem over the winter which has become a real headache. The car was running perfectly well all last year but when I took it out last week it 'kangarooed' up and down the road, and when I returned petrol was gushing out of the breather hole in the carb. I left it alone for a while and started it again.  Fuel did not come out of the carb but the idling was erratic and it would just cut out. There is a good spark at the plugs, so I am assuming that the problem is fuel related. The fuel pump is delivering fuel to the carb ok .

Any thoughts?

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Sounds like you have some debris in the back of the float needle valve, need to remove the valve

and pump fuel, into a jar to flush the feed line.,

 

you can take this valve off on the car but may be easier with the carb on a bench

 

remove the spark plugs and dry them , check the air filter is not fuel contaminated

 

 

pete

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here's an old favourite, when ever you mess with the fuel hoses you cut a sliver of rubber off the inside of the hose with the inserting metal pipe

these float back and forth till they end up stuck in the float valve,  hence pump some fuel out the supply to let them out 

make sure there are no sharp cutting ends to the tubes 

 

Pete

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Hi Pete,

I have cleaned out the float needle valve and there is a marked improvement, but am not sure it is as was until I can give it a run out .

​there were some bits at the bottom of the float chamber so the rest of the carb might need a clean out.

 

Stu 

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http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm

 

The needle valves dont last for ever

and on later carbs its easy for the float to be fitted upside down as it has two needle arms

 

Have a read through this site

 

and make sure no gasket or air cleaner is obstructing the front face ports

check the diaphragm for small splits

if its grown wash in petrol will return it to size

 

pete

 

Pete

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Hi Pete,

I will check out the site, thanks. However, I've cleaned out the needle valve and also made sure there is no debris in the rest of the carb and it still has a lumpy idle . I've just taken it out for a run and it jumps up the road. The carb was rebuilt  by myself about a two years ago and seems in good order. I'm not sure where to go from here.

Stu

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If there was an improvement but still a problem, I would do it all again. There may still be some of the dread slivers lurking in the system. When you cleaned out the needle valve did you unbolt it, or just prod it about a bit? I would take it off and blow it through.

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HI,

I took the needle valve right out and blew it through, also stripped down the main body and that seemed clear. It does seem to point to a fuel problem but I can't understand what it could be as it was running perfectly before this winter. I have checked all the ignition system (except the plugs but they are near new) and tested the compression and that seems fine. Will check the carb again.

 

cheers

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Check the dizzy spindle has no wear and has side float, this upsets the points gap when running.

 

check the small flexible wire that earths the moving plate to the dizzy case.

 

fit new spark plugs

 

check coil HT terminal has no green down inside

 

remove dizzy cap and hold coil ht lead 10mm above the rota, get it cranked over , if spark jumps to the rota its failed, if it doesnt consider it to be ok

 

does the lift pump give a good well defined spurt into a jar when cranking or idling

or a feeble dribble

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The distributer is fitted with electronic ignition and I used  a set of ht lead testers to check the spark at the plugs, which was all good. do you think that the plugs may be a problem? they have only done about 200 miles. there is a good spurt of fuel coming out of the pump when I turn it over on the solenoid.

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I have been trying to solve a friends spitfire which seems to develop a fueling faul followed by new ngk

plugs failing , , change the plugs and she fine for a few days and the misfire returns

plugs look fine but appear to short circuit the electrode tip , so dont rely on plug testers

you may be getting good HT but no spark at the tip

just a thought

pete

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Thanks Pete,

Am going to take off the float chamber and the float with the carb in situ and see if the fuel flows through the needle valve without restriction. I can then have a look at the plugs , which are ngk ones also, feel a bit reluctant about getting new ones, but may have to in the end though.

cheers 

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Pete,

I think that I am going to replace the plugs cos I checked them and they where covered in soot , probably because I have not been able to run any distance, but they are not that expensive anyway. I checked that fuel was getting through needle valve, and it was. I am also going to put the original  carb back on and fit a new fuel pump  (which I already have)  and see if any of this works.

Stu

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Hi Pete,

I am located on .the edge of the Somerset levels. By the way, have changed the fuel pump , put the original carb back on and checked the tappet clearance and still no change, rough idle, but not rough when it is revved up. Am going to get some new plugs over the week end and see where that goes.

Stu

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Always Comp. test with all plugs out good battery, throttles open

 

you can also raise the figures a little by raising the air pistons ,

you dont want any restrictions in air intakes or crank speeds , or starter energy.

 

Wont be the first time the desperation changed an engine when a can of duff fuel was behind the problems, its just assumed to always be ok....... may be get some fresh and jockey tank the carb with some fresh.

 

Pete

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We have a local club member with a TR3A and he always has trouble with misfires after the Winter layup. Filling up with fresh fuel resolves the problem. Not had the problem myself but, it may be down to the brand of fuel.

 

Dave 

My car always runs badly until I fill the tank with fresh fuel after the winter layup.  

 

One year I went through all the diagnostics you are doing then kangaroo'ed up to the petrol station, filled her up and drove smoothly back.

 

May not be the problem of course, but I wouldn't do anything tuning wise until you are certain you've got fresh fuel flowing through.

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