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Steering Bump Stop?

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My Spitfire 6 has failed its MOT because on full lock the wheel is touching the brake hoses.


The issue is that the wheel just keeps turning on lock.


Garage reckon there should be a bump stop of some sort to stop this happening, possibly as simple as a jubilee clip - any ideas?


The car has uneven amounts of lock left to right, so my first job tonight is to sort that and see if that is the issue, but I thought I'd post on here while I'm getting oily to see what you guys think!

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Trying to get my head around how to sort the uneven lock.  The only thing I can think of is to disconnect the track rod ends at both sides and turn the wheel until I find the middle of the rack then reconnect the ends - does this make sense!


As to the issue of the bump stop.  I've simply bent the brake pipes a little so they no longer foul the spring on full lock.  I attach a few pics on full lock - does this look right chaps or do I have too much travel on the rack?


I always remember our cars being well known for extreme steering.






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I'll keep posting 'tll someone replies!


Any tips on getting track rod ends off without wrecking them?  I have a fork splitter which I know will work, but that will be the end of the seals.


On full right lock the tyre is touching the anti-roll bar which but clear on full left lock.  My guess is that the uneven lock is the source of the problem.

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I'll keep posting 'tll someone replies!



One hour and ten minutes??? Wait till we get home from work and get our slippers off, at least.....

You can use screw-type ball joint splitters which press on the end of the threads and so don't break anything.

As you've said, provided your track-rod ends are the correct length then you'll have to recentralise the lock and then readjust both track rod ends to se if that cures the problem. 

Your curved brake pipe extension is lying sideways - it should be tight to the caliper - if you can straighten it back against the caliper without kinking it you'll gain a bit if space.

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With the wheels ahead Both rods must be the same length from the TRE centre to the centre of the gaitor covered spherical


easy to pop a TRE off the steering arm, undo nutq a good few turns and witha decent hammer

strike the arm on its end , yes clout the hole not the tre.and thentape jumps out.


I agree with colin we all try to answer but we do have a life as well.


so slow down , solutions will arrive , maybe when the suns gone down


let us know how you get on

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Sorry!  Not really in a hurry but thought I'd keep posting as I went along!


Tie rod ends off using a Birmingham screwdriver on the side of the steering arm.


Seems to be about 1.8 turns each way lock to lock - sound about right?  ... but with the wheels reattached the LHS wheel is still fouling the anti-roll bar.


So I got thinking to the issue I had last year when the rack was moving in the mounts (there is a thread somewhere).  I'm thinking that the rack itself may be skewed to one side resulting in the issue I seem to have.


Just slackened off the clamp and moved the rack to the left (as far as it will go).  Just going to get oily again and see if that has done it!


Am I right in thinking there isn't a bump stop of some sort on the rack?


You guys are great by the way!

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I have reduced the lock on my car. I welded a bit of tube to the inner balljoint lock nut, about 18mm from memory. But I think a wide jubilee clip would do he job, and be much easier to fit. Pop the gators off and fit...


All mine does is stop the tyres from scrubbing, still  has a good turning circle.

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yes the stop is the back of the spherical housing nut/ collar  abuting the rack tube 


tape measure the rods to make sure they are the same lengths 


from the manual  between the tre and inner spherical centres is 8.715"  both sides 


back stop to inner spherical centre is 1.42"

back stop to tube end  is  3.325"

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I think I'm there.  Bit of trial and error moving rack left and right until the "stop" was the same at both sides.  Very close to scrubbing the wheel on the edge of the anti-roll bar but a definite stop at both sides preventing this from happening.


I'm still not happy that the clamp is fully "clamped" as the top and bottom meet and I don't think they should.  I'll mark the position and take the clamp off and file off a bit from each side.  I've also had the locking nuts on and off a couple of times so I'll swap these with new ones.  Fingers crossed that will keep the MOT man happy.


I seem to have a lot more oil under the car than I remember.  Engine was rebuilt last year thanks for TSSC Shropshire, as featured in the Courier last year.  The new "bridge" that I bought didn't fit so I ended up helicoiling the old one.  I think this is the source.  Engine out job on this car so there is a job for Autumn; will fit the uprated unit in the club shop.

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Leak is coming from bridge area, but we were very careful to use the right bolts / torque on reassembly. 


Car is a bitsa with a 2000 ME engine on Mk3 GT6 chassis - it has proved impossible to get the sump off in situ unfortunately.


My plan will be to keep running over the summer with a view to engine out in the autumn.  I can live with a bit of a leak, but there was a bit more than I am happy with .....

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