Adrian Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 Hello all As a double check for those in the know and those who would like to know I'm going to attempt to put together a quick step by step guide on checking and adjusting CD 150 carbs as per Pete's great instruction during the tutorial day. Just so you know - I've never touched a carb before and am not a mechanic so if anyone wants to refine this please feel free. 1. Visual Needle adjustment. The basic setting is the washer on the needle at the base of the float should be more or less be flush with the base of the float. This is adjusted by as long allen key or special car adjuster tool (the adjuster has a centralisation sleeve to prevent diaphragm damage). Please note, float chamber disassembly does not result in parts springing out and getting lost although caution should be used to prevent threading of the screws / sockets during re-assembly. I think this is sitting a little too far out (correct?) Check the diaphragm isn't distorted. If it is soak in petrol and it should reform to its original shape. Don't forget during re-assembly to make sure the tab on the underside of the diaphragm is located in the corresponding 'socket' in the carb body. Right hand side of the photo. Obviously carefully re-insert the needle into the slot as seen in the photo. 2. Temperature compensators. As I recall these are to facilitate consistency between cold and warm starting. Not all carbs have them. If you do they are easily recognised....The yellow plastic covers. If you remove those bigger screws adjacent to the plastic cover you get the following Note the two rubber washers. Basically it is a bimetallic strip which operates the cone in the middle of the above picture to adjust (I think air into the carb)? With the washer off it should offer slight resistance when pressed, if no resistance adjust the nut on the inside until you feel the slight resistance as follows. The nut should move freely with pliers. All of the temperature compensator adjustment is totally irrelevant if the air intake on the carb is covered by a wrongly / deliberately placed gasket. They can operate without them and it was apparently a common feature to blank them. You can see the cut out for the intake in the above although ironically the intake for the other carb was blanked by a reversed gasket - perhaps that is why it never started particularly well. 3. Choke. Pete said to make sure there was no corrosion on the plates, if there was, clean them. Fortunately spotless. Although may have to get a gasket as the one on there seems a bit rough. 4. Finally - balancing (if that is the right term) - visual The picture of the carbs above shows a screw on the top right of each carb. This adjusts the opening of the baffles? (the brass thing!) I just adjusted them visually until they both operated the same. Then it is a good clean of the outside with 00 steel wool and carb cleaner. Hope I've remembered it correctly Pete! Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 Adrian, spot on, you can remove the (I thinks) you are correct One point the temp compensators are there to bleed air past the throttle plates and thisnweakens mixture and raises the idle a little When under bonnet temperatures get too hot for normal settings its an emmision gimickmfrom the 70s . If they are open for normal temperatures you dont set the mixture correctly, hence the simple view is they should be best closed There are detailed how to set them up which is beyond most diy tinkering so Closed is the best option Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 Adrian, good job! Although, there's nothing wrong with that gasket! Bit of Hematite, it'll be fine. An additional thing you could add is taking the needles out to the replace the "O" rings that stop the dashpot oil disappearing. There is a spider washer that holds everything in and is liable to ping off and disappear. I lost both mine! Double T shirt. Buckeye triumphs site show a detailed overhaul of TR6 Stromberg 175 CDs which are similar, they show the needle, spider, etc in the overhaul section. But it's high time we had a specific 150 version. Well done. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 Excellent job, pin this as a sticky thread... although I hope it's just the angle, the needle in the first pic looks to be at an angle compared to the piston... :0 Just about to start on a Stromberg for a 1200, it's been years so wish me luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 yes colin the angle is a biased needle they are sprung towards the engine (so are some SU) so the fuel gets sucked from around the needle not from the back of it, for better atomisation only found on top adjuster CDSE not on CD or CDS they should be a fixed needle, nothing to stop you swapping all the bits over if you feel adventurous. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 Too modern for me, those fancy later carbs... but nice to know there's nothing wrong with the eyesight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 Ah what ! speak up go to spec savers they make em look upright Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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