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Regulator RB340 - Triumph Vitesse


Paul H
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Triumph Vitesse MK2 

Hi upgrading to an alternator and removing the existing regulator 

Before I make the dreaded cuts  - is the pic below correct procedure for splicing wires on the regulator RB340 .

I was going to cut off the terminals and splice / solder and heat shrink - Any other methods ? I would like to retain the original spades but couldnt find a solution . 

I had a great idea of using an old Lucas fuse box until I realised 3 of the spade connectors were 8mm and too large 

Paul 

5aad2e78f0bfc_regulatorRB340.thumb.jpg.041862b4d42dff3a61c8794b77acaae9.jpg

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Yes paul your pic is inccorect  the small  terminal feed your waning lamp so join the two small 17amp lucars together

And all 3 o f the 30 amp together 

Thats join 3 and 4

 And 2 5 6  together

But I would with an altertator run a higher rated cable direct from the alt 30 amp, blade direct to the solenoid /battery positive

Being a shorter run and better capacity than the round the houses old reg  route

 

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Don't cut off the terminals, remove the control box and open it - strip out the internals leaving as much metal to the rear of each spade as you can. Then attach / bridge and solder them inside as the wiring requires. This leaves everything looking fully original from the outside, but all the connections are now correct for the alternator, just hidden from view. I did this on both my Herald and GT6 years ago and they're still going strong.

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Thanks all for your input and now added a corrected version for future reference ( Thanks Pete )

I was going to run an additional  42 amp cable  (already purchased ) from the Alternator ( its a 45 amp Alternator ) direct to the battery though will now add to the Solenoid . 

Still havent made the decision whether to remove the internals of the regulator or connect by splicing 

Paul 

5aad476d34efd_regulatorRB340-correct.thumb.jpg.8dc6dca28f64b7e93cb7245ca5832373.jpg

 

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You could direct tomthe battery , but a solenoid post is an easy eyelet connection to the main car feed brown.

Thin eyelets on a battery post can end up attacked by the electrolyte  and when you havnt looked under the bonnet its just rotted off the 

the clamp bolt

Pete

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Update 

Decided to remove the Regulator as its under the dash and not visible + replacing the Millboard so wont need to cut a hole for the regulator . Joining the wires was helped by securing the tinned cable ends with a 5mm section of 15mm copper pipe with had been cut and wrapped round the wires - Using a brulee burner , heating the pipe and filling in with solder . 

Im making a new under dash millboard with this product from screwfix - Ive got some left over from a roofing job and have found its very useful for other applications - Best way of trimming the board is with a jig saw though strong scissors also work for short sections - 

millboard.jpg.0ed4a65584cbb0fa2c98e3bc403df297.jpg

Thanks again for all the input - appreciated 

Paul 

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