Waynebaby Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 Hi All, I used to have an problem with gear selection after a few miles when things had got nicely warm which I always put down to clutch drag. I've since changed the clutch and refitted my rebuilt gearbox and .... I have a problem with gear selection after a few miles when things have got nicely warm! I can set off with my Mike Papworth-fettled gearbox snickety smooth but half an hour later I'm having to use what feels like undue force on the lever in order to change up. The car is drive-able, but it doesn't feel too good and I fear for what this gear-lever wrangling will do to the longevity of the linkage bushes. The clutch master cylinder has new seals, the slave is brand new and I'm definitely not losing fluid. The slave bleed nipple is uppermost and the cylinder has been bled to within an inch of its life.There is the right amount of clutch pedal free play and the clevis pin at the master cylinder is a snug fit in the end of the push-rod. Does anybody know why my gear selection is temperature sensitive in this way? Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 to prove its drag can you engage gears easy with engine Off, and then it baulks changes when restarted ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted May 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 To be honest it’s not wonderful with the engine off (3rd/4th is quite baulky) but it’s no worse when I first start the engine. Things get stiffer with the engine on when fully warm. I can tell it’s clutch drag when warm because I can hear the diff unload when shifting from 1st (clutch depressed and stationary) to neutral. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 Are you sure the slave is right? There are a few different bores and a couple of different master bores. I used to have poor clutch performance on the Vitesse and cured it with a slightly smaller bore slave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 Unless the disc has a problem I would take the slave out tip it to raise the bleed, push its piston fully in to ensure all air is realy bled To gain clutch pedal travel this is a bit out the box but you can raise the pedal by slotting the bracket baulkhead holes and you can move this to raise the pedal height, you must keep small free play on pushrod Is the tolerance ring and withdrawl pivot pin all secure and not dropping out.?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted May 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 10 hours ago, NonMember said: Are you sure the slave is right? There are a few different bores and a couple of different master bores. I used to have poor clutch performance on the Vitesse and cured it with a slightly smaller bore slave. The cylinders are as fitted (5/8" M/C and 1" S/C) so that shouldn't be the problem but I'll keep it in mind. 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: Is the tolerance ring and withdrawl pivot pin all secure and not dropping out.?. Sorry Pete, but I'm not sure what the tolerance ring and withdrawl pivot pin are. Do you mean the pin inside the bell housing that the release fork pivots on? Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 yes the pin is held in place( or not) by a crinkled bush . they are happen to called a tolerance ring you can just see the top of the pin down the drivers side of the clutch housing, look for a 6 mm ish hole should have a pin blocking it . the withdrawl arm uses it as its pivot , if it gets displaced you loose travel always when replacing get a pin with a head on . cant fall out Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 19 hours ago, Waynebaby said: half an hour later I'm having to use what feels like undue force on the lever in order to change up. It can't be anything to do with fluid or the slave cylinder if the pedal is the same, but the lever gets stiff. It'll be some component or other expanding with the heat; do you have the metal cone fitted, or the plastic / nylon version? (See pic) At the other end, do you still have the rubber rings in the top cover where the end of the shaft goes through? I'm suspecting metal to metal contact which has dried out and loses any movement through expansion. Oil or grease everything thoroughly, all the linkages and the nylon or metal dome, and see if it persists after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted May 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 Thanks for the advice. The pin is still in situ (phew) I think you’re onto something with your linkage lube suggestion Colin since the lever action is quite graunchy on the right hand side of the gate even when cold. I can’t face taking off the gearbox cover again so soon after putting it back though so I’ll treat the sticky gear lever as the lesser of two evils for the moment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 dont take tunnel of to lube the spherical 's just remove the gaitor pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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